zygote2k
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Posts posted by zygote2k
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I don't know if it works on glass but will research it. I haven't used it yet either.
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When you polish a tank with fish in it, then you assume that there's going to be some risk to the fish and corals from fine particles of plastics.
I've polished a few dozen tanks over the years and have never witnessed a fish or coral death as a direct result of polishing.
There may be some chance down the road that complications arise from ingestion of plastic, but that has yet to be documented in the home reef.
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I now have access to an air powered underwater polisher.
I only need an air compressor...
Shiny tanks soon!
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Thanks.
I can demo it on a 300, 400, or 500g tank and provide water parameters.
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how do I sign up for beta testing?
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rock should not lean against the glass for support. sand also should not be used to support the rock unless it's only 1 rock.
it's hard to incrporate branch rock with such large pieces of base rock. I'd use a a few larger pieces as the base, then some shelf and branch to build height. don't build the structure higher than 1/2 the height of the tank to allow for fish swimming room and growth of organisms that are on the rock.
my 0.02.
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I'd like to know it's filtering capabilities- how many units per tank size for example.
Also would like to know if it actually works- test results and long-term use resulting in "X"...
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Better cure that rock for a few weeks to remove all phosphates before introducing it to the system
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Easy answer- stop trying to grow the species that have issues and focus on those that don't.
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Brendan (Pure Reef Systems) has been building acrylic sumps for me for going on 10 years now. Never had any issues with them, and the oldest one is still in service.
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Fwiw, my friend Alfonso Vayra used to collect mud and invertebrates from that big pond just on the other side of the Bay Bridge.
This was the basis for his natural system that eventually produced a polyp bailout in an Elegance coral 25 years ago.
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diversity from other people's tanks isn't very diverse in my opinion. when you put fresh live rock from the ocean into your tank, there's thousands of life forms that come out of it and over time, those life forms compete and kill each other off to the point where there's only a fraction of what was originally on that rock.
If you want true diversity, buy fresh liverock that has been shipped in water and you'll be amazed as to what comes out of it.
I've gotten live fish, jellies, octopus, shrimps, crabs, tons of macroalgae, and encrusting corals.
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too many variables with using it. If you collect it, then sure. Buying it from a store, no.
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from experience, Miracles brand starfire glass scratches very easy.
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I've used the Catalina water before but it was always lower salinity, so an additional amount of I/O was needed. I figured if I had to add I/O, then what was the point of buying Ocean Water?
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I find that typically shrimp eat corals when there's some issue with the polyps but rarely eat healthy polyps.
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why you trolling for me here? just call as usual. good ol' Shrek....
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work as close to possible as home. driving to MD in the morning and returning in the evening is brutal- think an hour each way or longer.
270 corridor has lots of work but unless you live along it, it's gonna be rough
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I'd ditch the Uni-seal altogether and just use a HDPE bulkhead.
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I use Port
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why aren't you dipping those frags before introducing them to your tank?
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You could always have a grow-out contest....
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heres the deal with Euphylliads-
They grow a fleshy sheath around the head and down the base all the way to the next branch intersection in a healthy specimen.
When these corals are fragged, this fleshy sheath is cut and the skeletal structure also is cut, exposing the inside of the coral to water. When water gets into it from underneath, it causes the coral to wither and die- sometimes. Sometimes the coral is healthy enough to grow the sheath again, sealing the skeletal structure from water intrusion and allowing it to grow into another colony.
When you buy Euphylliad frags, check the condition of the fleshy sheath- if it doesn't extend past the head, the coral is declining and will most likely die. When the flesh recedes, all sorts of things grow on the newly exposed surface, sometimes increasing the likelihood that it will soon die.
In the case of the picture above, the boring green algae and foramniferans have colonised that exposed skeletal area, which will lead to the demise of that head.
harlequin shrimp with urchins
in General Discussion
harlequin shrimp eat starfish, not urchins.