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Posts posted by zygote2k
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No QT means Petco is just as good...
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No fish QT? Yet another way of passing the 'savings' and responsibility of providing a healthy product to you, the end user.
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FWIW, cheap is not synonymous with this hobby.
You can buy any lamp that gives off the right spectrum that the plant needs in order to grow.
But if it's not growing under your existing light, there might not be enough nutrients in the water to allow it ti grow. Especially not if you stuffed a huge ball into the sump.
What's the Nitrate and Phosphate levels? Do you have existing hair algae issues that may be pulling all the nutrient out first?
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Got some much better pix?
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petsmarts and other stores get their fish from mostly the same sources in LA, Florida, and NY.
Assume all fish from every store are diseased and that they need to be QT's and medicated before introduction to your tank.
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clams that size are probably the most difficult to keep alive. very high mortality rate. IMO, it's best to buy clams 4" or larger.
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parameters
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Throw par away and just focus on wattage of the fixture. The old rule of thumb was 1 watt per gallon for low light corals, 3wpg for a mixed reef and 5+wpg for SPS.
That was for conventional lights and now that LED has taken over, it's slightly reduced but not by much.
When someone can make a guide that says "coral a needs 450 PAR to grow" then I'll start worrying about PAR.
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Has there been and research done on the efficiency of any of the bacterial reactors that are currently being sold?
We have bio-pellets, fluidized beds, kaldnes reactors, zeovit, etc.
I'm looking for some sort of data that shows if you have "x" amount of nitrate and phosphate, that "y" amount of bio-material will reduce "x" amount of N/P given a certain amount of flow over a certain time period will reduce N/P levels to zero.
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It's a number value that only provides anecdotal evidence at best. The hobby is full of things like this that provide no real conclusive data, but it does provide a number and measures something, so it must be good, right?
I was once caught up in the PAR measurements but without an actual guide to placement and par values for a given coral, that it amounts to basically nothing.
Watt output is a better numerical value to start with and evaluate light output.
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If you dig deep enough, you'll find where I tested about 8 different tanks with different lighting types and recorded the results.
Honestly though, does anyone even care about PAR readings anymore? It's not like anyone is growing corals specifically based upon their demand for a particular PAR value.
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sounds like a tank that didn't get cycled and stocked properly.
what do you mean by "all levels are fine?"
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no need for a testing regimen...
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darwin awards are for those who kill themselves doing stupid things
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test for alk, ca, mg, n03, po4 and keep records. this is the only way to determine and monitor the health of the tank. anything else is guesswork.
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Is there a valve on your return pump? is the hole in the top of the durso large enough to allow air inside it?
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Pictures please....
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Service side of the hobby is certainly growing and there's more service companies popping up than there are retail shops. I'm also seeing service/retail shops popping up too.
I think the overall hobby is growing, but moving away from the mom and pop shops of the past 25 years into online sales and hybrid shops.
Just different, not declining.
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periodically check the ecotech battery by unplugging all cords from the controller, then just plug in the battery cable. If fully charged, the 2 farthest lights to the right should light up.
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Is this a trick question?
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Peppermint Shrimp and/or Green Filefish work well to eat them.
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My suggestion is if you don't want the risk, then this is a job that you should do yourself.
No one is going to guarantee your fish and corals.
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nearly all of the TOTM's have been cycled using pee from the owner.
It's the best and easiest way to cycle the tank.
bonus points if you get it straight into the tank....
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oil-free tool.
Isopod killed my skunk cleaner
in General Discussion
a tiny shrimp wont cause an ammonia spike. you have other issues causing it.