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zygote2k

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Posts posted by zygote2k

    Filter idea: Size and SG of mulm

    in General Discussion

    · Edited by zygote2k

    If you put rock in the sump, you will certainly build up detritus under the rock and is therefore not recommended.

     

    Surge for the fuge is easily generated by a dump bucket and if constructed correctly, there will be little to no salt creep. This kind of surge is perfect for keeping detritus and other particles in the water column to be removed by mechanical filtration like sponges or mesh.

    Plumbing, and maybe running a manifold

    in General Discussion

    Dont use purple primer or ball valves on your manifold. PP looks horrible unless you are extremely careful and know how to use it.

    Ball valves generate torque and can sometimes make poorly constructed manifolds leak. Gate valves generate very little torque since you are only moving a wheel.

    And finally- if you are going to build a nice manifold, turn the pipes so that it doesn't look like you are advertising for the PVC company.

    Filter idea: Size and SG of mulm

    in General Discussion

    Why is mulm an issue enough to get a swirly filter? It seems like an overkill solution for a problem that doesn't really exist.

    Some of that mulm and fine particulate silt is actually good for the tank environment as it creates nice cryptic zones. Some will add to the soil mix of the bed that the plants will grow upon in the fuge. Pods love that stuff when seen in the bottom of fuges.

    RODI alternatives

    in General Discussion

    There are 2 different types of Deer Park. One is Spring water and the other is Purified water.

    Spring water can have P04 and N03 and Purified is R/O D/I water with little to no TDS and zero Po4 or N03.

     

    We use Purified water in several dozen tanks with great results, one of them is an SPS tank.

    Incoming water R/O issue

    in General Discussion

    On one of my service tanks, the incoming DC water line has been filled with fine particulate that has now clogged 2) RODI units. This results in zero water production and requires a full tear down to fix temporarily until it clogs again.

     

    Is there a scale reduction cartridge that I can buy to "prefilter" the water before it goes to the first stage?

    Can I simply place an empty cartridge first in line in hopes that the particles will fall to the bottom of it before going to the first stage?

     

    Need some help on figuring this one out.

    Thank in advance.

    Epic final battle

    in General Discussion

    Rob, interesting recommendation. I thought the only commercially distributed water that should be used in reef tanks is distilled, and that bottled water can have all kinds of stuff in it? (though, you obviously trust deer park more than the lfs water. :D :D )

    In many of the office tanks that I maintain, r/o is out of the question, but bottled water service is acceptable. Deer Park sells r/o purified water and I've been using it for nearly 25 years without issue.

    Epic final battle

    in General Discussion

    If it were me, I'd do the following:

    1) Remove all sand/gravel from bottom of tank.

    2) scrub all algae from corals

    3) remove all rock not attached to corals

    4) stop buying water at LFS- buy deer park in 5g containers from grocery store

    5) do weekly or bi-weekly water changes and siphon all detritus from bottom of tank.

    6) maintain regular light cycle and feeding schedule

    7) buy a protein skimmer

    Purple hammer bleaching

    in General Discussion

    WHAT CHANGED BEFORE BLEACHING?

     

    When I see corals in trouble and assuming there were no obvious changes, I just go ahead and do a 40-45% water change? Half the time this solves problem.

    silliest thing I've heard in a long time....

    Red Sea 425XL Lighting – Radion XR30 Pro Gen 4 vs? – Help me Decide

    in General Discussion

    So how are you going to mitigate the heat that comes off the T5's? Arent you worried that an additional heat source will significantly lower the lifespan of the LED's? Or at least the fans/drivers/etc?

     

    In my opinion and experience with well over 100 existing tanks, 20 or so with SPS corals and a few of those that had hybrid light systems, excess heat was a factor. Some of the LED fixtures like the black box units had issues with drivers that were slowly cooked to death, and with the AI's, many of the fans died prematurely. Canopy mounted lights fared the worst unless there was an active cooling fan built into the fixture that attempted to push all of the heat away from the lights.

     

    Besides- LED grows corals just fine. I'm happy with Kessils and Radions and never looked back to the good ole days of MH and VHO.

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