zygote2k
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Posts posted by zygote2k
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Snake oil.
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There have been no clinical trials to support any purported claims that garlic does anything beneficial for any living organism.
its the original snake oil.
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Looking at your pic, I see that you’ve used the expensive valves used in commercial applications.
BRS sell grey economy gate valves far cheaper than those.
ball valves should never be used near a bulkhead as it will generate torque that can loosen a water tight seal.
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A standard durso standpipe and a filter sock In the sump creates a silent setup.
i run numerous setups like this with no noise.
In the 28 years of service, I’ve only seen 2 drain failures that resulted in an overflow.
Herbies and Beans are a waste of money and space in my opinion.
Gate valves are used in places where the torque from a ball valve might cause an issue.
A check valve is a $20 solution for peace of mind.
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I’d definitely install a check valve. I’d also ditch the ball valves and use gate valves instead. The BV’s will generate enough torque to make the bulkheads leak
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Capital Aquarium in Manassas moves tanks.
call Zack at+17034341517
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FWIW, I’ve known him for 25 years and he has always delivered on his promises.
There have been delays but he’s always kept his word and he makes high quality components.
Theres way more to the story that’s being told here by some members- I know of some of the details and I think people are throwing him under the bus.
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Stop chasing the numbers!
turn down the doser and let it fall through consumption.
when removing livestock, rock/clam, coral, consumption goes down and alk goes up.
I test weekly on most tanks and I’ll only change the doser when it strays too far out of normal range.
I have found that with dosing that the numbers rise and fall naturally and that when plotted, resembles a nice alpha wave.
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I’m guessing one of the 2 salinity readings were off and that’s the main reason for any confusion.
I’ve worked on tanks that use the ATI method and all of them eventually needed water changes.
In my opinion, it’s just easier and cheaper to go with 3 part dosing and a regular bi-weekly water change of 25g.
This should take 1 hour every 2 weeks- cake.
What are your nitrates and other parameters at?
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We call that “reef rash” in the service biz.
one of the hazards of this job is that you’ll be stung thousands of times, develop unusual rashes, get tubeworm skeletons lodged under your skin, fish bites, uv exposure, and be exposed to harmful things like palytoxin.
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Cynthia-
Brian and Spencer at TFYB can polish the tank and have the tools to do so.
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23 hours ago, A. Byrnes said:
I have always like this brand but never seen the Vectra pumps. I have a reeflink and ecotech lights. Are these pumps worth the money? Just wanted to ask people opinions on these internal sump pumps.
I use both sizes and they’re super quiet and powerful.
i use them internally
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Vermetid snails are super beneficial. Killing it because the paranoid reefers club doesn’t approve of them seems irresponsible.
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Diseased fish
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Just keep the same old stuff. Why fix it if it ain’t broke?
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A six line wrasse can be an aggressive little monster and it’s not uncommon to hear of them terrorizing other fish.
It’s a main reason why I don’t keep any in the service tanks.
Pull the six Line, then see what happens.
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Real plumbing jobs by professionals always use check valves.
And real plumbing jobs do not rely on check valves, but use them as another level of redundancy.
Even with a check valve, you always allow for enough room in the sump in case of critical failure of the valve.
As far as anything that might grow in them goes, if you’ve put the correct type in, you will be cleaning it from time to time and ensuring that it works correctly.
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I recommend chain or ball.
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I work on a 600g tank that has probably 2500 palys in it.
Looks nicely grown in but super toxic. One end is dominated by anthelia with about a square meter of the stuff.
I work on another 300 that has green, blue, and orange majanos- maybe 1000 or more.
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Buy the hole saw and borrow a drill.
Time to pop that hole drilling cherry!
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Whomever is advocating to not have a check valve- that’s silliness.
ALWAYS use a check valve- preferably a double union clear type in conjunction with a gate valve near the pump return.
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What has the alk been over the past month?
What does the source water test at?
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In your shelf diagram, you have your hospital/qt tank above the frag tank. This seems like an easy way to accidentally get meds into the frags.
Also the fuge should be able to drain directly into the main tank with some sort of drain or lateral run to achieve the most benefit of macro life entering the display, rather than getting shredded by the return pumps or filtered out by stuff in the sump.
Also, try to keep the UV closer to the sump to take advantage of the water coming out of it. That water will be under some amount of pressure and you can certainly use it to power another device.
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bunch of paranoid reefers here.
no need to use bleach or peroxide or belt sanders to re-use.
As Isaac says, just reuse them.
I keep a big pile in the tank where they will grow coralline algae on them, which also allows corals to grow faster than on a fresh plug.
If your coral died from a pest, theres a good chance that pest is already prolific in the tank.
Corals eating garlic:safe?
in General Discussion
According to NIH
https://nccih.nih.gov/health/garlic/ataglance.htm