sen5241b

I notice a lot of people mixing kalk end up with a white sediment in the bottom of the mix container. Is that the best way to mix kalk? Does the dissolved calcium hydroxide stay the same each time you mix leaving a predictable amount of dissolved, dosable kalk? Should I add a small pump to keep any kalk from settling to the bottom of the mix container?

Apparently those that bought them a few years back and paid mucho bucks, fragged them, grew them out and made a killing.

I would not take any chances with them. I would get rid of them at the speed of light. With some pests, once they get out of control, you've lost the battle. I once had "colonial hydroids" (not sure if they are the same but they look similar). I took the rock out of my tank and drilled a hole several inches into the rock right where the hydroid was. Rinsed out the hole and the hydroids came back in the same place. Nuke them now!

Cause they got cool little bubble thingies on them. This one is only $1200

First let me check my lottery ticket. Anybody got a bounce? http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/322393864351?lpid=82&chn=ps&ul_noapp=true Anybody got a bounce?

I haven't dealt with them but I would not cast judgement on a vendor based on a single bad frag. I won't name names but I've seen "a bad frag" from some of the more popular vendors that support WAMAS.

The "Easy Mode" SPS Aquarium https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k3OISdJ6zMk

Has anyone seen real success with certain foods for chalices?

Good call.

Like I said I've touched them a gazillion times BUT I do not have a skimmer.

Its known that some zoas have the playtoxin and some do not. One marine biologist tested different zoas from the same large colony of the same species in the Caribbean. Sample one had the poison and the second sample did not. Without testing its very difficult to know whether the poison is present.

How did you get poisoned?! Touch through skin? Inhalation? Touch with a little open-cut on finger?

I tried a 4 stage system and a poor DI system and neither delivered TDS zero water. 5 stage filter systems generally work well as does a good DI system. The more cheaper pre-filters you have before the RO membrane the longer that membrane will last.

I think we need to let the individual take the risk --as long as they understand what the risk is! I've touched my zoas a gaziilion times and never felt sick but this discussion has put the fear of God in me. Wearing gloves from now on.

TDS zero water has no Ph and you need to add something to it to give the water ph. We get our water here in Arlington from the same source as DC and it is bad water. Never use it. (My Mom lives in Dewey beach Delaware and the water comes out of the tap at 70 TDS)

You forgot to mention that you dig up Long Island muck from the bay and put it your tank. I'm wondering if that adds needed minerals and beneficial bacteria to the water, no?

When I have done a 50% change out, I've continuously sprayed water on corals so they are dripping wet at all times. It seems to help

That purple light makes it difficult to see the algae's true color.

If its hard then I think you can narrow it down to an encrusting coral.

Members have seen SPS recede because flow wasn't strong enough? Was flow on the troubled corals reduced?

My first thought was a light issue. Did you change anything that could have caused flow to change? Re-positioned powerheads, pumps?

Links are broken. How big and how deep is the tank?

According to this article corals need UV-A. Other sources say UV only damages corals. I have an AI Prime and wondering if I should throttle down my UV LED which is running as high as the blues/purples.

We've all seen creatures of the ocean that have an incredible ability to disguise themselves. With 16 cones the Mantis are easily able to distinguish the subtle color variations between disguised prey and its background.

That Red Sea 175g seems to have everything except a chiller.