lancer99

hound, keep in mind that a frag tank is just a tank with frags...so it should have similar parameters as to any other reef tank. You will probably need a skimmer or other filtration. HTH, -R

Don't forget Stomatella...they are taking over the refugium section of my 40G breeder, as well as the rest of the tank when the lights are out. Davelin, I have no mysis or gammarus.....think you could hook me up with a few? Thx, -R

"baddies" of what sort...fish? You can use perforated tank dividers for that. -R

Are you sure it's a gorilla crab? There are lots of crabs that live in symbiosis with Acros, feed off their slime (not their tissue), and are completely benign. IMO it's one of the more interesting examples of symbiosis, so I never removed crabs from Acros unless it was obvious that they were going for the tissue. -R

You will need a light that puts out light LOL...Chaeto and other macros aren't fussy about light. I've grown them under 6.5KK halides, 40W NO fluoros, and a cheap CF light from Home Depot. HTH, -R

I like my PITA with HUMMUS. darn, I just did the aquascaping on my 75G on Friday, am giving it some time to settle down (LR and sand both previously cycled). Then I was planning on introducing an LTA (not BTA) first, in hopes it would pick a spot in the sand and not wander, as James mentioned. But all these difficulties y'all are having getting them to attach aren't too encouraging :( -R

Sara, it was updated here (stealing Dave's thunder). Dave, would love to see some new pics! -R

Thx for the advice guys. Let me explain what I'm trying to do, and maybe someone will have a good solution: This tank is sumpless, and due to the varying water level from my Eheim 2227, I need a surface skimmer that moves up & down with the changing water level. That's why I have the Eheim surface extractor . The canister filter is used only to power the surface extractor. One of these looks ideal, but I just don't have room on the back of the tank. Any ideas? Thx, -R

I wouldn't bother with the Fiji mud. Macros don't need it, especially Chaeto. Probably wouldn't hurt, though. I do have some mixed in the substrate in my seagrass tank, but that's just for the seagrasses. -R

James, I thought LTAs always rooted in substrate, not on LR. You might want to try burying a piece of rock an inch or two (depending on the size of the anemone) in the substrate, then placing the anemone in a hole above it. Or just bury the plastic food container in the substrate once it has attached! -R

quazi, Maybe you can help...after breaking the Renaissance, I tried hooking up a Fluval 404 that I got as a "bonus" when buying a 150G tank. Initially I put the head on backwards (they should design these thing so that can't happen!), but even now that it's the right way 'round, and the ears are locked into place, it leaks. The O ring is there and looks to be properly seated. I realize this isn't much info to go on, but any advice you have would be much appreciated. Thx, -R

I'm looking to replace a Renaissance Prime 10 canister filter (no longer made). I broke the housing last night. It's just used to power an Eheim surface extractor, so the flow rate isn't too important. The Renaissance is 100 gph. What IS important is that it's easy to clean. Quick-disconnect hoses, and easy to re-assemble without breaking the #$@#$!$ housing! I know it's old skool low-tech, but I'm hoping someone has a recommendation. Thx, -R

I wouldn't worry too much about the Porites shading itself...IME that doesn't make any difference. And even if it loses some polyps, they are very quickly regenerated. As for target feeding the worms, keep in mind that they actually take in food from the bottom, not the top. So flow from the side is probably the best. I've had a problem with hermits picking at the worms, and lost a couple, so mine is currently sitting on top of an inverted plastic container that the hermits can't climb up on. Here's mine: HTH, -R

Happy "One Year Closer to Death" Day Yeah, that was a bit morbid, but I'm closer than you are! -R

My low-tech Kalk doser: I took a plastic jug and drilled a hole about 2" off the bottom, then inserted a plastic airline tubing valve into the hole, sealed it with silicone, and added a short length of airline tubing onto the valve. I add a bit of kalk powder as needed. Each day, I fill the bottle with RO/DI water, give it a shake, & let it settle. Once the lights are out, I adjust the valve to get a drop per second or so. By putting the hole a couple of inches from the bottom, only the clear liquid drips out. Yeah, it's a PITA compared to a dosing pump......but it works! -R

As coordinator of the group buy I automatically have dibs on the first frag Yeah, I know, in my dreams! -R

gmu (apologies for hijacking your thread, dave), I got some Tonga Nassarius from Blue Zoo Aquatics, and they are exactly the same shape/size/color as regular Nassarius, just 2 or 3 times bigger....like 1" shells. They seem to behave exactly as the smaller Nassarius...they move fast, but fish move more quickly, so probably not a problem! -R

Dave, they are the "Blue Leg Hermit, Small" that I got from Reeftopia. "Completely reef safe" according to their site! Other than picking at my Xmas tree worms, they have been model citizens, and seem to spend most of their time picking at the sand. -R Edit: Oops, I tell a lie. Obviously that's not a Blue Leg. He's the 'freebie' that I got with some live sand. So far he has been okay, but will keep an eye on him. -R

Weapon, Great aquascaping...I think that shows how good Marco rocks can look! I hope mine comes out that well -R

I am very happy with the Marco rocks. I didn't wash them at all, added them to my 75G, then added 45 lbs of "premium" Fiji (very dense & massive...I'd hate to see what non-premium looks like) two days later. It all cycled in less than two weeks. Almost all the Marco rocks I got were obviously old coral heads, shaped like a 3D version of a triangle with the point at the bottom. I'm going to Thorite them together, smaller ones on top of larger, in an approximation of a wedding cake. Should provide a good mix of horizontal & vertical space. -R

physigs, This is the 50 lbs of Marco rocks I have curing in my 75G: That's already more than enough rock for me, but unfortunately I ordered 45 lbs of premium Fiji at the same time! -R

James, unfortunately I don't have any spare 250s...just 400s :( -R

James, I have three Hamilton Reefstars with the 14K bulbs...a 250W over my 40G frag tank. If you had dropped off the fuge an hour later, you could have seen one in action I like them, make the colors on my Rics and Discosoma really pop....but don't look too blue. Ask me nicely, and I might just lend you one of the 400W units -R

I can't find the reference, but have read recently that some of what are sold as "Turbo" snails are indeed a temperate species. And Ron Shimek, who seems to know what he's talking about, says they only feed on diatoms, which is contradicted by this article: http://www.reefland.com/rho/0305/medprod3.php (a great read, btw). I suspect that there are several different species, all called "Turbo" snails. The ones I got from reeftopia are mostly doing well, but even reeftopia seem to be confused, calling them "Snail, Turbo (Astrae)" on their "Lot Prices" page (in contrast with "Snail, Golden, Small" which are really Astraeas). And this is the best explanation I've ever read about why it's okay to ship snails "dry," i.e. just with moist paper towels: http://www.reefs.org/library/article/snail...matization.html . It's the next-to-last answer, by Ron Shimek. -R