lancer99

Paul B: "Fish get Pop Eye all the time" Not if you give them decent growing conditions. Paul B: "Bleach is just chlorine gas in water. If you left a bottle of bleach un opened, it would become fresh water as the gas evaporates. After the bleach does it's job, it evaporates leaving just pure water." Really? Paul B: "Don't do this." Good advice.

Here are "Big Mama" and "Baby Boy," my mated pair of black false perculas. *** -R

Typical of cyano "cures"... -R

Why not just be patient and wait for your tank to get in balance? Cyano "cures" are just bandaids on the problem. Instead of relying on quick fixes, keep basic tank params normal, and your cyano will vanish in a few months. No need for silly Bio- this or Pro- that. -R

Yep, they're fun pets until they crawl out of your tank two weeks later and die. -R

This is why I'm starting to like WAMAS even less than reefcentral....too many "experts" who have absolutely no idea what they're talking about, or changed three or four things and got a result they were happy with, or tried one thing and it worked for them, ignoring the fact that their unique circumstances don't necessarily apply to anyone else. Without even knowing what Jan's "clusters of bubbles" are, how can you be so self-congratulatory in solving her problem? -R

Congratulations to Steve Mihelarakis (SteveM) for being selected as March '09 TOTM. You can see Steve's set up and interview by clicking on TOTM in the menu above or clicking this link Congratulations to Dan Lichens (Dandy7200) for being chosen as August '09 TOTM. You can see his awesome set up and interview by clicking on TOTM in the menu above or clicking this link Congratulations to Onyx for being chosen as May '09 TOTM. You can see their set up (it's really her tank) and interview by clicking on TOTM in the menu above or clicking this link. Congratulations to Justin Casp () for being chosen as June '09 TOTM. You can see his awesome set up and interview by clicking on TOTM in the menu above or clicking this link. -R

Necrosis can develop when a coral gets to a certain size...it's a prelude to asexual reproduction. It can also develop as a response to stress, i.e. the coral thinks it's going to die, so it deliberately "rots" parts of itself, in hopes that the remaining healthy bits will survive. -R

Jan, are you sure the clusters of bubbles are algae? I only ask because IME bubble algae (or the ones that will turn into nuisance algae, like Bryopsis) are hard to dislocate with a turkey baster. Could they just be oxygen bubbles? If they are indeed algae, you are just making the problem worse by blowing them around :( It may just be a coincidence...you can have zero (measurable) phosphates and still have problems with bubble and/or other nuisance algae. -R

+1, tunicates, not a sponge. And they may die off suddenly. -R

I just don't see the point...instead of subjecting freshwater fish to a too-high salinity, and saltwater fish to a too-low salinity, why not just keep two tanks? -R

Thx James. Not much flow at all...basically two Hagen 802s (or whatever they're called now). A little flow from the skimmer and refugium, and that's it! -R

1 2 3 4 5 6 Hope U Like! -R

I'm wondering how difficult it would be to keep an "audit trail" of posts, i.e. archive the entire message when it's first posted, but then keep a record of any changes. That would allow users to edit posts as they wished, but if there any question of impropriety, would allow the admins to retrace what was said, and take appropriate action. Some message board software can do that, dunno (obviously) about this one. Not sure that this is a good idea, unless you can read the state of mind of the poster. Sometimes people say things in the heat of the moment, or just carelessly.... -R

Ah....thank you! I wondered why my water was giving off such a smell of chlorine these past few days. -R

I love gorgonians, and while the photosynthetic ones may not be spectacularly colored, IMHO they can look pretty cool: Cheers, -R

Very nice...I love all the open spaces! -R

I started my 75G with about 80% Marco rock, the rest cured live rock. It's the first time I've started a tank without 100% live rock. I got a cyano bloom a couple of months in, which lasted about three months...but I knew it was just the tank getting into balance, so didn't decrease feeding or lighting...and the cyano disappeared over night. The only long-term effect that I'm not happy with is that some of the rock is still very white....there's coralline growing on most of it, but a few of the rocks stay stubbornly white. -R

Just as it was overgrowing the red algae on the exposed tips, I spent too long in Montreal again and it got exposed to air. It seems to be easily able to overgrow the red algae: Overgrowing more of the rock: The polyps look kind of groovy with the flash! -R

I thought the point of getting uncured LR was to cure it as quickly as possible, and to preserve organisms that wouldn't make it through the usual spray process. -R

That could be...my nitrates stay very low, phosphates as well, but that doesn't mean anything Jason, they are all photosynthetic...I learned my lesson long ago Dave, that's a new Pterogorgia (guadalupensis?) that I just got a couple of weeks ago. I know that Pterogorgias used to be considered more difficult to keep than other gorgs, but based on my experience from a former tank and my P. citrina in this tank, I don't think that's true. I'm keeping my fingers crossed with this one Cheers, -R

15 months ago I decided to try a seagrass tank....here it is, shortly, after planting: Here it is now.... Only the Thalassia/Turtle grass is still alive...but it's still a "pure" Florida/Caribbean tank...even the flatworms must be from the New World Cheers, -R

rottlover, Sorry to hear about that. That doesn't happen if you do manual dosing. -R

Forrest, I'm not aware of any problems mixing softies and LPS. Toadstools (Sarcophyton) have a reputation as being the most toxic, but I've had no problems mixing them (and Lobophytum) with Echinopora, Nemanzophyllia, Turbinaria, Symphyllia, etc. -R

I don't think seagrasses would be a good choice for CO2 reduction. They require at least 4-6" inches of fine substrate (okay if you have a DSB), but are unpredictable. My Thalassia/Turtle grass (supposedly difficult to grow) is doing well, but both my Syringodium/Manatee grass and Halodule/Shoal grass have died off. The Syringodium did flower before disappearing, and I disturbed the roots of the Halodule, so maybe that's my fault. In other words they are finicky....I would guess that something easy like Caulerpa would do just as well at reducing C02, and would be much less of a pain -R