bcjm

I have 4 VHO on my 75G. I can add them to the new tank. I do have two questions here. 1. Should I use double or single ended MH? Does it matter? 2. All the electric outlets close to the tank are share the same fuse (15A). Am I going to have problem hooking up 2 400W MH, 4 VHOs and all the pumps? 3. Can I use MH pendents INSIDE the canopy or should I use retrofit? 4. Is there a particular brand and bulb I should be looking for? Bob

I am going to replace my 4 years old 75G soft coral tank to a 60x24x24 (150G) tank. I like to be able to keep both soft/LPS/SPS this time. I really don't know much about MH yet. I assume two 400W metal halide should do. What would be your recommendation for this application? Where to buy? Which brand should I avoid. What brand? Like to hear from anyone who has a similar tank with success. Thanks Bob

I am using an Euro-Reef CS6-1 skimmer on my 75G and I have a spare CS6-3. I like to use the CS6 but it is like 2" too tall for the stand. How easy is it to cut the skimmer body 2" off and glue it back? Myabe I should just trade for a CS6-2. Bob

I have a 3 stage RO unit. I got a TDS meter lately. My tap water is 145 and my RO water is 35. I don't have a new RO membrane to replace to see what the TDS value. Is 3 stage not enough? What is the TDS value should be? The RO unit is so cheap on ebay. Some 5/6 stage unit is less than $100. Should I go ahead order a 5/6 stages unit or should I replace the membrane first? Is there a brand people recommend? Thanks. Bob

Do you have a contact information?

Does anyone know who makes furniture grade stand and canopy locally? Need one for a 75G tank. Don't like the look selling on ebay. Thanks. Bob.

A nice male GS maroon and couple of tomatos still left. Call me ASAP.

I am sorry, all the pairs and some singles are gone. Only one female tomato, two young tomato and one huge femal ocellaris left. Like what I said, I am in a hurry. I have to shut down my system COB Thursday. Call me if still want any of these fish. Otherwise i am givine them to the fish store on Thursday night. Bob

I am downsizing my fish tanks. I have couple of clown fish I would like to sale or trade for coral frags. All fish has to be taken by Thursday. I can drop them off if I have to. Since I am in a hurry please call me at 703-4725860. I am in Vienna VA. 1. A breeding pair of Marron. I have this pair for 3 years. They were constantly breeding when I fed them well. $40 2. A bounded pair of percula. These are from Soloman Island. Nice black and orange combo. Age unknown. $25 3. A bounded pair of black ocellaris (darwin, all black with white stripes). 3 years old. $40 4. Couple of singles. Free. male maroon, female skunk, male tomato, female tomato, perculas. Bob

75x1 + 40x10 + 20x3 + 10x8 + 30x2 = 675

Got most of questions answered from the URL you gave. Thanks Michael.

Oops. we must posted at the same time. I read the setup description at Precision Marine. I have couple of more questions. 1. So a kalk reactor is less effective than a cal reactor is because it is depends on the water evaporation rate. Correct? 2. It seems that the circulation pump on the kalk reactor is going to be clog very easily. Is that going to be a problem? 3. If my evaporation rate is 1 gallon a day. Do you know how often do I need to add the kalk power? 4. Do I have to use a dosing pump? Can I use a power head to pump the fresh water into the reactor when sump water is low? 5. How do you like the kalk reactor over all? Too much maintenance? Not very effective? Sorry about the long questions. Thanks Bob

Do you know a configuration diagram for kalk reactor on the www?

For a 75-120 soft corals+LPS what would you recommend? Should I get a calcium reactor? What model/size? Or should I get a kalk. reactor? I don't know what is the difference between the two. thanks Bob

Since I already had 20 ppm nitrate before using carbon, it should stay in the water if carbon does not remove it. I am running carbon on another 200G system which has 10 PPM nitrate as of last night. Will see how it goes in 2 weeks.

The water of my 400G fish only breeding system was kind of yellow. I used some activated carbon to clear the water. The water is pretty clear after two weeks. I was suprised that the nitrate also have dropped from 20to 2 PPM. I did not know actived carbon can remove nitrate. My question is does it remove calcium also? Bob

The pump on my skimmer just went bad. I am considering to get a new skimmer. What size would you choice for a 75G? Where can I get a good deal on-line?

no kidding, mag 7. what size of tank do you have and how heavy do you feed?

BB, what pump do you have?

This guy on ebay has been selling stand/hood. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws....4475822 I don't really like the design but the price is reasonable.

If LR really works like magic how come the test result from the article shows the nitrate off the chart? They all have LR.

I think the thing I learn from the artical is the importance of using activated carbon. The filtering systems keep changing. More and more people find out DSB is not as good as it advertised. Also it would be a good thing that If there is another way to reduce the nitrate without using LR so we don't have to harvest that much from the ocean.

Anyone interested in sharing this: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2356913924 I spoke to to the seller about the phosphate content. He tested today the result is 1 ppm.

I am glad you found the article on the net. I didn't. I wish they had one more system without the LR in their testing. I am just wondering how efficient it is to use LR as nitrate removal media. Using carbon 24x7 with regular water change might just do the trick.

I picked up a copy of the Sea Scope this Saturday. There is an article comparing 4 kind of biological filtering systems, wet-dry, bio-wheel, Berlin and plenum. They all have LR with skimmer. The last one did not use activated carbon. The nitrate and total dissolved organic is much higher for the plenum system after 5-6 months. The results for the first three are pretty much the same. Does it mean that the LR and plenum are not as efficient as I thought they would to complete the nitrifying cycle? Is using activated carbon the best way to reduce the nitrate in the system?