wreck

Don't know exactly how your RO/DI is setup but to bypass the DI(to make filtered drinking water?) you should use the line coming out of the RO membrane that goes into the DI.

I quick google search and I found these mods: seaclone mods maybe they'll work for you. Wreck

If when you turn off the return pump and that side fills up, it's probably because you have some some restricted flow to the return somewhere. When you turn off the return pump and the return area fills up it's because it has more to time fill that area but when you turn the return pump back on, the flow to return area is less than pump flow so the return area water gets low. Try to isolate the problem, if you put your overflow hose directly into the return area and the water level stays high then you have some kind of blockage in your sump, if the water level in the return still stays low than the blockage is in your overflow somewhere. I hope this helps, good luck. Wreck

Are the baffles to your return pump chamber clogged with sand, chaeto, or something? Maybe try to dump the overflow water directly into the return area and see what that does.

Eric, Get a Silicates test kit while you're at it. I have a feeling that play sand might be a contributing factor along with the tank just settling in again after the move. Wreck

i would stay away from the play sand and get some aragonite like CaribSea.

Awesome tank, that's incredible that all that growth can happen in three years. Wreck

I'm all for recycling and repurposing everything.

That's what I do, canister pulling water out and output back into sump. The only issue is the flow through the canister should be around 80-100 gph for efficient phosphate removal. I'm not familiar with the penn plax 700, but if it's a small canister it should be fine. Wreck

These are some questions you might want to ask Flowerseller. I target feed my anemone once in a while but it mostly just gets what happens to land in it when I feed the tank. My Tomato clowns took to the RBTA almost immediately but don't stay in it constantly. I think there are some tricks to get clowns to start hosting in anemones but I forget what they are, but I think they will eventually notice the anemone. Wreck

Thanks, I run the Fluval 104 canister filter(from an old FW tank) with phosphate remover, you can see it in the picture of the sump. I'm going to either build a new phosban reactor or buy one because the 104 is a pain to prime after maintenance or power outage. Wreck

I was going to get a PAR measurement but the WAMAS PAR meter was a little inconvenient to borrow for me.

Thanks, I have two seperate ballasts not sure of the make of either, I bought one from an electrician who made it himself with one 175MH and the 4 CFs, the other I bought off of wamas, but I think they are both m57 ballasts. One of the bulbs is a Chinese Aquamedic 14k i got off ebay for $10 the other on the left side of the tank is a Plusrite 14k. Wreck Also I think the first pic is when I was only running a single 175MH with a 10k bulb and 4CFs. Second pic is with dual 14k MHs and 4 CFs.

Here's a pic of the latest split: Wreck

Some more pics of my 55 setup: Here is a pic of my lighting, DIY canopy with two 175MH 14k and 4X65w PCs, 2 10k and 2 actinic, plus blue led moonlights: Here is my GEO Kalkreactor, too big to fit under the tank: Here is my sump/fuge, some PCs lighting with chaeto, Berlin Turbo skimmer slight mods, and a Fluval 104 that I run phosphate remover in: Thanks for looking!!

should I be worried since it split so quickly? Chip, I think I have a few cubans in the humidor, don't tell the ATF, I'll give you one next time I see you.

Yahhooo. My RBTA split has now split in two again, I now have three in my tank. After the first split, the smaller RBTA moved too close to my Crocea clam so I moved it. I don't know if removing from the rock if I injured the foot or something, but the last few days it had two feet and started splitting itself in two. This morning it's completely split in two and they both look good. I'll snap a pic and post up later. Wreck

My Scribble Rabbitfish hasn't touched any corals in my tank and he ate the little bit of green hair algae that was in my tank.

Adding Kalk shouldn't raise your salinity, it must have been that high already. If you want to bring it down some just remove some tank water and replace it with straight RODI. Did you add the kalk directly to the tank or into the sump? It's best to make additions into your sump to give it a chance to dilute and to avoid getting it directly onto corals. Your Ph should drop back down some soon. If you're going to be dosing kalk in a single shot, you should try to do it shortly before your lights come on or a few hours after lights out when your Ph will be near it's low point. Before I added a kalk reactor to my tank, I used to slow drip kalk mix with an aquadoser every night. A Ph monitor is a great thing to have so you can see what your Ph is doing at a glance without having to do tests all the time. Wreck

I actually removed the koralia and put a SeaFlo prop mod on the maxijet600 i think, you can see it in the second picture, the modded 1200 was blasting my sand down to the bottom. So currently I'm only running the one modded MJ plus the return. The left side of the tank, the MJ mod is on the right side, is the calm side and the hammer and fragspawn seem to like it and there is no buildup of detritus on the sand. I tried two Seaflo maxijets in the tank but sand was getting blown everywhere, but I may try to add a MJ400 with a Seaflo mod and see how that works. Thanks, Wreck

I thought I would share some pictures and info on my two 55 gallon marine aquariums. I setup my first 55 saltwater tank in the spring of 2005 as a FOWLR with 80 watt normal output flouorescents and a canister filter. The first fish I added were my pair of Tomato Clownfish that my brother gave me from his tank breakdown. They are still in the tank and I have two batches of their babies, born in Aug/September 2007, growing out in another 55. I slowly added/upgraded equipment to how I have it setup today, which I am pretty happy with, but there's always something to upgrade, right? So here is picture of my tank in October 2007, I had just added my first LPS. a green candy cane: Here is a picture of my tank last week 5/12/08, I just added a second 175 MH on the left side of the tank and I have just started adding some SPS: Thanks for looking, I appreciate any comments or suggestions to make my tank better. I'll add some pictures of my equipment and such later. Wreck

After you capture any live clownfish larvae and transfer into your growout tank, You'll need to spend a little time each day, feeding live rotifers to the larvae at least twice a day and keeping the tank clean by doing 10% water changes daily or every other day. Expect at least 30 minutes a day to handle maintenance for the first 10 days, after that it gets easier but you'll need to grow fresh baby brine shrimp daily to feed the fish after metamorphosis. It takes a lot of commitment for those first ten days, so plan on not leaving town during that time. I followed the instructions pretty much word for word from the book "Clownfishes" by Joyce Wilkerson, I highly recommend it. Good luck. Wreck

Congrats on your clowns spawning. I would give you some rotifers and phyto but both of my cultures crashed from neglect and non use. If you can't find any locally, you can mail order from www.rotifer.com, they also have info on how to culture rotifers and phyto. Good luck. Wreck

Thanks Chip, I love my RBTAs. I think you're probably pretty close to everyone on WAMAS having one of your RBTA babies, but there's always the mail order market. Keep watching, doubling in size is always good too.

There are no orings or seals on the bezel, if Citizen says it's ok it should be ok, just be careful not to get the wd40 in any of the buttons there are rubber orings there.