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vaironman

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Everything posted by vaironman

  1. Or a juvenile chevron tang, a clown tang or a sohal tang. Even with 4 tangs, you still should be able to have anthias. Your tank is more than large enough to accomodate quiet a few more fishes.
  2. This, I am not sure how long it will take the clamp to attach its footing to a piece of rock. Once I put it on a rock, I normally don't touch it again until many months. The last time I had moved my clams probably 8-10 months ago with rock rearraignment. You can try a small piece of flat rock for its base and give it a month. I would think it depends on whether its foot was injured during previous clam harvest or not. We might want to listen to any clam experts in the forum to chime in here. KLee
  3. How about a Red Sea Sailfin tang or better yet a Super Black Tang.
  4. didn't notice it's a video until Chris pointed out. That's definitely funny. The first one and when Rik tapped on the glass tank. Can we nominate this video as Picture/Video of The February Month?
  5. Marcia, You can place the clam on a small piece of flatrock for the its foot to lock/clamp down on and move the clam to any other place later that you like it to be at. Eventhough, it loves light, you can place it down at the bottom, on top of the sandbed is fine, too. Seem that your tank has lots of light, nice enough for the clam to be at the bottom also. KLee
  6. Beautiful pair of clownfish, Rik.
  7. I agree with dshnarw to place the clam near SPS would have no negative effect. In fact my large crocea, its mantle have spread out large touching a small 2" light green acro. when the MH light is on. Placing it near LPS such as torch, frogspawn, hammer is not a good idea as dshnarw pointed out its mantle will be stung by the LPS. The left corner top of your tank is a very nice place to put the clam there since they love bright light. The more light you give the clam(s), the more colorful its mantle become. I have found from experience that the clam does not need to have those green liquid feed. As long as you have good clean water and enough bright light for them, they thrive adding more beautiful color to your tank. BTW, the new 180G bowl setup is very beautiful! Good work guys!
  8. Bob, Your issue is you only have two tangs in your system and one of them would like to be the dominant one. The good thing is you have a 240 Gallon which is plenty of space for the lesser aggressive tang (the yellow tang) to swim away. Purple tang is more aggressive than yellow tang. One way to quickly reduce the stress on the yellow tang is to purchase another kind of tang with same or better with a little bit larger size than your current tangs to share out the stress. Yellow tang is pretty hardy and with your large tank, I don't think there will be ich break out. Don't get a Powder Blue Tang since it's very sensitive to any kind of stress from being harrass. KLee
  9. Green star polyp. Nice in the beginning. Later on, grows abundance.
  10. I think the longest lenght for a T5 bulb currently on the market is 60".
  11. Looks very nice with the dry wall up. Saw you put in lots of efforts finishing up your project. Almost seeing the finish line......
  12. Thank you Dave for posting this question. Same issue, tagging along.
  13. And Howard has a small ice cooler always ready in his hand. He is seriously on the hunt (not for deer) for the SPS tanks....... J/K.
  14. I've a flame and a majestic living in a mixed reef tank. They don't bother any SPS or even large crocea and a maxima already in the tank before purchased them. However, I put an elegance coral in after they have established their territory then the flame started nipping at the elegance coral, and the majestic follows the flame footstep. The elegance is all gone within 3 days. I would not recommend to put angel together with any sponge LPS such as elegance, open brain, etc.... Other than that, it's fine with SPS I think. So far so good for me.
  15. This is a very nice SPS tank beside Copps and Leishman's tanks. We should nominate this as TOTM.
  16. How about precycling your rock at home for the first month? When you setup the tank, the rock is done with cycling. Just need to get some water in your current tank with bacteria to seed the new school tank setup when you're ready and that should shorten the cycling period, plus take care of the smelling issue, I hope.
  17. Six days is long and it's not that bad when you're projecting to have everything setup cycle by the end of June, Sara. Remember, Patience is the key in our hobby. Good job! Have you tried to address her question/concerns regarding tank maintenance? Cheers!
  18. The SPS little frag at F&F is always great with $10/frag. Can't beat that.
  19. You're not alone on this thread. I am tagging along. Just reading and see what do we need and which potential resistant you might run into and I see how to tackle that if when comes to proposing to my daughter kindergarden school. Thanks for sharing your project with us. KLee
  20. No harm. Just tiny little startfish hitchiking from your live rock. Good fun stuffs.
  21. A new trend of seasoned Nori/Seaweed is currently going strong within the asian community. Be careful to read the label and lick the seaweed to see if there is no salt seasoning. Once you feel them that has oil, that's the new trend Nori. Then try to get a different type. This is just a precaution. Not meant to scare everyone. I could buy from Korean/Asian grocery store; however, I get a large bag from BRK for $10 since I am there to look at fishes and corals. Still better price than buying from Petsmart/Petco.
  22. Josh, A word of caution, without a good skimmer, when putting an anemone without pristine/good water condition, it will not survive long. KLee
  23. Welcome to WAMAS family.
  24. It has to be more older than 1991. That was the year, my parent purchased our first house in Annandale and I first going to Super Petz and Wally at its new and now location in Alexandria, not in Arlington.
  25. Jessica, I scan really quick with your very first post on this thread and see most everyone already address everything and you already tested water and water change routinely. I saw Tracy's post with Rik (Leisman) help on finding an article on Cyano algae. Here is something that is kind of a question and I don't have a real answer; however, may be someone can point out something to help my own question/analysis. From your signature, you have a 90G, 2 mod MJ1200. That should fix your water flow if that was the original issue for Cyano algae. You feed twice a day, daily. With low/insufficient flow, that would definitely create the Cyano issue with left over food and low/insufficient number of cleaning crews. However, your test showed that everything was in 0 number, that is contradicting what we were thinking of Red Algae. It couldn't be old light bulbs since the light bulbs are new and using RO/DI water. If the new mod MJ1200 powerheads help improved the red algae issue and does not completely gone in a couple weeks, I would lighten up on the feeding and even further with upgrading to a recirculating protein skimmer. My own question is how can we have zero results of all tests and have a Cyano issue, is that possible? May be someone can help point out my flaw analysis here. Thanks, KLee Correction: Just read Tracy + Rik's aritcle and it points to a parasite which point out my flaw analysis. Jessica, let us know what fix your issue in the final. It will help me and most pple possibly learn a new thing here.
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