Stephen

How do you like the skimmer? I'm thinking about that one instead of the ddnw 250 when I set my 210 up.

So I decided I'd hate myself down the road if I didn't have a nice new starphire panel on the front of this tank. Hopefully NAGA and I can work something out for next week when he calls tomorrow. Plan on starting the stand tomorrow and will take plenty of pics.

Tank is getting it's first fill of water for a leak test. If all goes well the stand will be started next week. Here's some of my mspaint artistry of the layout of things. I'm planning to skin everything and paint it all white similar to the way the guys at greenwich aquaria have the large display in front of the couch set up. http://www.greenwichaquaria.com/store.html I'll more than likely do a faux tile top the tank will sit on to match the theme of the room it's being placed in. Everything except the display will be covered.

Yes it will. Roscoe (the yellow tang in the 40 now) will be happy.

Great! 2 of us actually loaded it into my truck. Hopefully we won't have any trouble getting it into the house this evening.

This is going to be a slow process build but I'm excited and wanted to start a thread. Sometime within the next month I'll build a stand when I cement my equipment choices and sump size. I believe I've decided on everything but will just post it up as I go along instead of putting a list here right out of the gate. I originally wanted a 250 DD Marineland tank but having found this last night and seeing it this morning I would have been a complete fool to pass on the price the guy was asking. Here's the tank after making it home. It saw it's first drop of water in the rain showers I had to drive through.

Honestly I'd call Ecotech in the morning. Their support ime is top notch.

Thanks everyone.

Anyone have one of these and could tell me how thick the glass is on the sides and back panels? I'm itching to upgrade to this tank and want to mount 2 MP40's on each side and 2 on the back wall but will need to change plans if the glass is thicker than 3/4".

It's actually insanely simple. All that's required is a razor blade, squeegee, film, and a spray bottle of applicator (basically water and a very mild soap). Advanced Auto sells a kit with all the tools. Here's a link on how to apply it. Note... I wait at least 6 hours to apply the second layer. If you can put the tank outside on a warm sunny day it only takes a few hours before you can safely put on the second layer.

I use the 5% window tint to do mine when I want black. 2 applications actually. After the first sheet is good and dry I apply another over the top of that. I looks just like it was painted.

There's actually 4 official types of fires. A - Mostly organics as well as plastics. B - flammable liquid and gases C - live electrical equipment or wires/lines. D - exotic metals. A house fire can be a, b, c, and d type of fire. Fire depts don't generally use those "type" of fire identifications. It's a whatever is burning fire (i.e. structure fire, vehicle fire, brush fire, grease fire, etc). The A, B, C, D classes of fire are used by fire extinguisher/extinguishing agent manufacturers to distinguish types of fires their extinguishing agents/extinguishers can/should be used on. As stated earlier most if not all fire departments use water to extinguish residential structure fires. Things like foam are used also but I'd say 99% of it is biodegradable now adays. Having spent 15 years in the fire service I honestly wouldn't even consider using the rock, tank, or equipment. The combustible material inside moderns homes produce very very toxic smoke. Some of the by products of burning carpet and furnishings are hydrogen chloride and hydrogen cyanide. I bet if you tested the water of the tank after the fire was put out the water would be very acidic. It's the smoke and the by products of combustion in it that kill people and destroy things the fire was never near. Cleaning it up may make it look new but I'd be concerned about traces of combustion by-products lingering. I've had a few sets of turn out gear replaced during my time in the fire service for that very reason. I'm happy you and your family are safe and I'm sorry for your loss. If there's anything I can do to help please don't hesitate to ask.

No you can't mix them. If you're interested in only using one you could use one of the all in one cal and alk products that are out on the market. I don't have any experience with them though.

I use them to dose cal and alk and I've never had a problem with them. After almost a year of use they were still dosing the 1.1 ml they advertise after testing them last week. Great dosers IMO. I also use their similar 50 ml/min top off pump.

Sent PM about tank.

I'll admit I didn't read more than the first page of the marine depot thread but it's not enough to change my opinion or continued use of the brute cans. I really respect Eric and his contributions to the hobby but concerning the cans for water storage I'm of the "if it ain't broke don't fix it" mindset.

http://forum.marinedepot.com/Topic101230-9-1.aspx?Highlight=rubbermaid+Brute

I'm there about every week but I'll go. I'll drive myself since I'm lots closer than you guys.

+1... Well worth the trip if you haven't been.

Measuring the glass thickness and setting the pin spacer correctly (if the MP10 uses one) seems to clear up a lot of issues with the vortechs.

A 1 3/4" hole should accept a 1" bulkhead. Are you sure the bulkheads are 1"? FYI: The "heavy duty/premium" bulkheads do require a larger hole.

That's awesome!

Are you sure you have the pin spacer set correctly? That seems to be the reason most of them fall off.

I'm guessing it was the "reef saver". It doesn't show my order history prior to the new site but I don't remember the fiji or pukani being carried the few times I ordered the rock.

Mine is set in lagoon mode (purple).