bigJPDC

when you post two articles written by the most respected name in reef chemistry, and something is still disputed, there is nothing left to do but laugh. Sorry if that created confusion.

no, the thread just went in a direction that makes me laugh, that's all.

What about non acro eating flatworms? What strength and how long to dip new corals if using FWE? 1-2 drops in a cup of fresh sw, swish for 30 minutes? jp

Yo Mr. Mammoth - how's the tank? I did a FWE treatment this weekend, and am going to back up with another in two weeks at the next water change. I did a couple of things different this time but nothing will change unless I start dipping all corals before putting them in the display tank. jp

Exactly. I add kalk to my ATO reservoir, the same way RHF does in those articles I posted the links to. jp

Really? How are you measuring degredation of kalk over time such that you 'recharge' every week? http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2005-01/rhf/index.php#11 http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2003-05/...ature/index.php A non-aerated container of kalk , closed or not, does not degrade, but you might wind up adding more kalk anyway as your system uses it, depending on your evaporation\delivery rates. jp

it should draw from the top of the chamber, away from the floating and unsaturated kalk. The idea is that your ATO water goes into the kalk stirrer and forces out kalk-saturated water, giving you way more capacity than if you just maintained a kalk reservoir.

I agree with Jason. That 120 will be a HUGE QT tank. You need circulation, temperature and nitrate control, which you could provide by doing weekly water changes. FO tanks don't even need much lighting. If you want the fish and will do due diligence on the final destination, I say go for it. jp

probably as small as the koralias. The prop on the 1 I have in my nano is tiny.

Hey thank you Tree. I only have one 100w heater in my sump now, reused the other one for a saltwater mixing vat and it's set to 75, I doubt it's even come on in six months.

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthre...threadid=717034 I knew it was in dhnguyen's autosig, so I just looked for any one of his posts. jp

No, two heaters both set to 79 should in theory turn off when they get to 79. Standard advice is to run two undersized heaters instead of one big one - in the event that one sticks 'on', it won't be powerful enough to overheat your tank.

he's saying that the return pump could fail after the power comes back on and the water in the tank will get cold because the heaters are in the sump, and you are away from the tank long enough for something bad to happen. But if the power is back on, won't the house heating (and tank lighting, powerheads, etc) be back on as well, minimizing the temperature swing? Too many ifs in this discussion, and yes power cords really do look that bad. jp

I don't know how big your tank or sump are, but uh - how much good is a heater buried under rock going to do if the power goes out? The idea is to have water flowing accross it, to maximize convection heating. I put my heaters in between my sump baffles - used to have two, but it is so hot here in NoVA that I only have one, and I doubt it's ever on. The best thing about a sump is hiding ugly equipment. HTH, jp

I got it now - I finally got up to speed on your RC thread. Lookin' awesome Dandy! 200 nassarius!?!?! jp

you need 2000w of heaters? Are you moving to Alaska? pix?

Medusa - I love that name for an anem!

Rock on #1 Sean! Got those nassarius? jp

here ya go Jason - for MJF's tank: http://www.vortexventures.com/Products/Rad...alEductorsS.htm The rotating lobestar vortex.

I kept scrolling up to the guys's profile because I was sure it was you. I like the pictures where the blow torch is going. That's not a gas dryer you work on is it?

Jason, if this guy would have been working on a washer\dryer I would have thought it was you. http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthre...hreadid=1214501

you mean it looks like this? Oh yeah, Mrs. Bigjpdc was a big fan of the ATO. For plans, there's not a lot going on. Basic cabinet construction with 3/4" ply set in dados and nailed. The front is a rail and stile face frame, everything cut on the tablesaw. To get the column all you do is add firring strips, build out the column and mitre trim shoe molding. Any end grain is covered in real wood or iron-on strips but there really isn't any since two sides are never visible. I left the back open to run hoses and wires to the main stand, in case I change functionality in the future. jp

Welcome!