Brian Ward

Disgusting.

As Trock said, there really isn't any such thing as a "rare" coral. Corals vary in availability and are bought and sold based on color patterns. What can be rare are corals from certain regions of the world. Australian corals tend to be more difficult to find and more expensive due to Australian export restrictions and the distance that it has to travel. Things from Australia do have different coloration than things from Indonesia. So buy things because you like the way they look, not due to a label of "rare." Another thing to note, corals that are captive propagated have a better chance of maintaining their coloration once they are established in your tank. It is not unusual for a wild-collected coral to change colors in captivity - meaning that it will look one way just after it is collected and sold either online or in an LFS vs. the way it looks in your tank in a year. Corals that are established in captivity, grown out and fragged will show less color variation (though some is expected).

I would love to do it but I'm in Costa Rica 6/22-7/4.

That trailer will work. I have all the tiedowns, but my trailer stayed behind when I moved into the city.

I think risky is the right inflection, but the wording could have been better. The idea being that a fish that's been established in someone's tank for 4-5 years is probably hardier than one that was just collected, even if it's been QT'd for 4-6 weeks.

You may not be as central, but you probably have more physical space than most. So I'll still vote for your place.

I can take 4 5-gallon buckets of mix. I have no idea how many gallons of water that will make (I'm going to guess 800-ish?) but I have to base my take on what will fit in the very limited storage space I have. I can also help with pickup - My 4Runner can take about 1000# over the rear axle. I can do 4000# in a trailer if someone has one to loan.

I've had my blue hippo in a 120 for about 3 years. He's still not too big. Selling at cost, if you get a juvi, means you'll be trying to sell a 6"+ hippo for around $25. You'll have no problem selling at that price. Your problem will be trying to get him out of your tank without tearing it apart.

Of course. But we still need to recharge DI resin. Maybe we can do that at the same time in Dave's back yard.

First a little clarification - an ozone reactor requires an ozone generator. The reactor is kinda like a media reactor (see here: http://www.avastmarine.com/ssc/do/product/ozone/AVAST-Mutiny-Ozone-Reactor). You can also just inject ozone into your system - such as through a skimmer. My understanding is that the acrylic your skimmer is made from must be of a certain type in order to be able to take ozone. The advantage of using ozone is that your water will be clearer and it breaks down some of the dissolved organics in order to make your skimmer work better (skimmers can typically only remove 20%-30% of the dissolved organics, ozone is supposed to increase that number). The disadvantage is that it adds a level of complexity that may not be necessary and can result in a tank crash if the monitoring and dosing equipment fails.

I'm going to go with not really. I know copper will absorb into the rock and leach back into the water virtually forever. However, I don't know for sure.

This shouldn't affect the way any of us process the water we use, but figured I'd give the head's up. DC is treating with Chlorine (instead of Chloramine) through May 2. Whatever you do to remove chloramine will take care of chlorine. http://www.washingtonpost.com/blogs/post_now/post/dc-water-changes-disinfectant/2011/03/21/ABHafZ7_blog.html

This weekend - like day after tomorrow. Several of us that went up to MD and broke it down and moved things the first time are unavailable this weekend but we need to get this moved out of Chip's shop and into a school.

All, This is a forum for members to provide feedback on vendors they have used. It is also appropriate for the vendor to reply with any additional, relevant information, offer to make things right, defend himself, etc. If you have no personal experience with Saltwaterworx and are only seeking to attack one side or another, please refrain from making those posts.

Moving to Vendor Experience

Let me be the first to say .... I hate you.

You should be OK. SPS and clams will have trouble toward the bottom.

I've bought mine from Bulk Reef Supply: http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/store/1-spears-gate-valve-slip-x-slip.html

We emailed him. If we don't receive a reply soon we will be forced to hide this post.

As noted, you must list prices when posting things for sale. Since this is an "out of the hobby" liquidation sale, it is permitted in the General Forum. You don't need to list everything, and having people schedule appointments is fine, but please provide pricing for those items you did list. You probably can't edit anymore, so if you either post here or send me a PM I will update your first post with the prices.

I had it in my FOWLR. Don't know what it is but never seemed to cause problems. My rabbitfish would eat it.

Here's my pics:

None of the adhesives will work correctly. Acrylic is petroleum-based and while these adhesives and even silicone will work initially, the bond will break down over time. Here's some information: http://www.melevsreef.com/tools.html http://www.melevsreef.com/allmysumps.html http://www.melevsreef.com/acrylics/sumps/chvy/chvy_sump.html You'll need to order Weld-On #4 online or visit Piedmont Plastics up in MD. You'll also need needle bottles and some other supplies indicated in the first of the above links. The plastic must be perfectly flat and squre and fit together with no gaps at all. The Weld-On will soften the plastic creating a chemical weld which will dry overnight. Be sure to do lots of reading before attempting this. If you don't do it right, you'll end up with a sump that will work perfectly for a while and then break all of a sudden.

They tend to fit very tightly. Be sure that you're looking at the ID of the tubing vs the size of the bulkhead (there are also OD measurements on the tubing, so be careful). The tubing should easily slip onto the tip of the barb. Getting it past the first 1/4" or so definitely requires some work. Definitely be careful about putting too much stress on the bulkhead.

It really depends on which fish you have and whether you're trying to breed them. Proper nutrition and frequent feeding are important to maintain maximum health of your fish. However, most of us only feed once a day or once every other day. Again, certain fish will require multiple daily feedings, but most of the more common fish will be fine with once a day.