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My first reef

Bmp78

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in New to the Hobby

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Bmp78 Urchin

Bmp78

What's all,

 

I'n new to this saltwater reef aquarium hobby, new to this site and state.  I have experience in keeping freshwater tank with 6 Discus. 

I bought at Deep blue 34g with 15 g sump. It came with hand on Evergrow IT2080. I have several Issues and question that I am looking for guidance.

1) Evergrow IT2080 remote is not working. Any idea where I can get replacement part?

2) I started tank with tap water, added salt, and 2 large live rock. Now that I did some research I should have started with RODI and lice Rock (almost looks like someone just put them in the tank and decided to sell, may be too big). Tank is running since 5 weeks. Added some bio media to developed beneficial Bactria . Cycling is in progress...

If it's not too late what should I do to correct this.

3) Any suggestion on ATO? I heard lot of things about it but can't make up my mind. My budget is 150.

4) Place where I can find flat dry rocks to complete aquaplaning. I don't have much height to place large rocks I have make my own scape.

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Hoping to hear back from you guys soon.

Thanks,

-b

 

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Mattiejay6 Uber Reefer

Mattiejay6

Welcome! Nice tank!!

 

1.) can’t help ya on that.. never used those lights and haven’t seen them in awhile.

 

2.) problem with using water from tap is chemicals such as Chlorimines, and second is TDS. You can remedy the chloramines with a product like seachem prime. The TDS well.. probably slowly decrease it with water changes when you start using RODI water. This will lead to algae problems.

 

3.) I recommend the Avast ATO, or Tunze Osmolator.

 

4) I like ordering from Marco Rocks or Reef Cleaners. Google them.

 

5.) you should look into getting a protein skimmer. If you are a member of WAMAS there is some for sale in their like a NYOS 120 that would be great for your set up! 

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Bmp78 Urchin

Bmp78

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Mattejay6: Thank you for your feed back...

 

1.) can’t help ya on that.. never used those lights and haven’t seen them in awhile.

 

2.) problem with using water from tap is chemicals such as Chlorimines, and second is TDS. You can remedy the chloramines with a product like seachem prime. The TDS well.. probably slowly decrease it with water changes when you start using RODI water. This will lead to algae problems.

  •               Since tank is cycling. I may do full water change once I get RODI...

3.) I recommend the Avast ATO, or Tunze Osmolator.

  • Still debating 

4) I like ordering from Marco Rocks or Reef Cleaners. Google them.

  • I'll look in to. I have set vision for flat rock aquascape so let's see what I find. 

5.) you should look into getting a protein skimmer. If you are a member of WAMAS there is some for sale in their like a NYOS 120 that would be great for your set up

- I have bubble Meg 5, It's not because there is no need of it now.

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Bmp78 Urchin

Bmp78

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hi Mattiejay6,

I did by RODI.. 5 stage. 

I couldn't find full package of AVAST ATO. So I am thinking of "XP Aqua Duetto Dual-Sensor Complete Aquarium Auto Top Off ATO"

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WheresTheReef Uber Reefer

WheresTheReef

Glad to see the tank up and running and look forward to seeing it build out. I put most of it together and traded/sold it to Isaac. I made the wood top, canopy and sump. I only used it lightly as a coral QT.

 

The light is an IT2060 24”. I couldn’t test the remote, but it was working not too long ago. Might reach out on the for sale forums as many people used these lights and might have a spare remote stored away. I installed the light over to the side to have a lower light section by the overflow. You can easily shift the led and T5 over it you want a more centered spread. You might also consider lowering the canopy closer to 18” to avoid lots of light shining outside the tank.
 

What ammonia source are you using to cycle the tank?


I was using a JBJ ATO and hung an aqua lifter pump on the back center vertical board. It was able to pull water from the ato reservoir on the right side of the sump just fine.


I ran a Curve 5 skimmer on it and it worked well. I did have to raise it a couple inches to keep it from overflowing.


Also lots of rock being sold on the for sale forums at great prices. BRS also sells flat rocks, but it does get pricey.

 

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Bmp78 Urchin

Bmp78

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Hi WheresTheReef, 

Glad to be in touch with original owner. I am in desperate need of getting started with this tank. Leaning and doing is slow process on my won.

*You might also consider lowering the canopy closer to 18” to avoid lots of light shining outside the tank.
- Done

- If you can find a source for remote I will buy 3 of them unless what you have configured is what's required for coral growing (light (sun) comes on at 3pm and shuts off at 11pm).

- I need solid reference on ATO full package, money is not an issue since this is in my leaving room.

? Not sure what this means (hung an aqua lifter pump on the back center vertical board)?

* What ammonia source are you using to cycle the tank?

-Fish food sine 3 weeks now. I added live rock form some one's tank (but that also was pure white and appears new).

?Wold that introduce some issues to my tank? I can flush the tank since I haven't added any live stock.

* It was able to pull water from the ato reservoir on the right side of the sump just fine.

- Trying to setup ATO to pull water from the right side to the left middle section where the return sump is.

All for now.. 

 

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WheresTheReef Uber Reefer

WheresTheReef

I don’t have a source for a remote. I would just post in the WAMAS for sale forum for what you need. Might get lucky for a remote. However you can program the light just fine using the controller interface.

 

I had a custom program, but never dialed it in. I would recommend adding your name to borrow the club’s PAR meter. It is the best way to setup your light.  The list is a little long so add your name soon. The meter forum is here. https://wamas.org/forums/topic/93093-2020-updated-par-meter-borrowing-thread/

Are you planning to add a controller (e.g apex). If so then you can use that for the ATO. If not/unsure then there are lots of options. Some come as a pkg (controller, sensor/float switch, and pump). I found a cheap JBJ ato controller with float switch in the for sale forum. I bought an aqua lifter pump pretty cheap online. Again, might post a WTB for an ato in the for sale forum. Lots of great equipment at reduced prices. I don’t have experience with other atos.


There is/was a hook on the center brace behind the sump towards the top (see picture below). I used it to hang the aqualifter.

large.IMG_20200419_220758.jpg.122140f314d8fa03606c6e5a7c5e5465.jpg


If the rock was pure white then it might not have been live. Was it in water or existing system when you got it? Did you keep it submerged in saltwater to reduce die off if it was live? Don’t restart the cycle. Just ride it out. Have you tested the ammonia? It’s good to verify the ammonia you are adding and see if the tank can process it. For example, I used pure ammonia that I bought from Dr Tim online. I added 2 ppm of ammonia and tested with an API test kit. I also had a nitrite testkit to see when it was measurable and dropped to 0ppm. If you have a nitrate testkit instead then you can see if both initial bacteria’s for the biological filter are present.

 

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Bmp78 Urchin

Bmp78

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do you have model for apex controller. 

I just bought - Tunze 3152.000 Nano Osmolator, ATO for Aquariums under 55 Gallon

But if it's one stop shot then I will go for it..

 

 

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DFR Grandmaster Reefer

DFR

Welcome to the club!!!

 

The list you posted should be fine.  As a cautionary note, I wouldn’t use the prazi and copper in your display, try to get a separate tank to which you could quarantine/treat your incoming fish. 
 

What are you planning to keep in the tank (fish, corals, algae, etc.). The reason I ask is tap would be fine for initial setup, as well as fish.  You WILL go through a phase where algae and nuisance bacteria will probably overtake the tank before everything normalizes.  So, what I would do is leave the tap water mix and only replace with a RODI mix when doing your normal water changes (unless you intend to keep more sensitive corals). 
 

I’ll also throw my support behind the Tunze ATO as I’ve found them to be one of the more reliable options.

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Bmp78 Urchin

Bmp78

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Hi DFR, 

 

Thank you for your response.

I am going to setup Fluval Flex 15g Nano as quarantine tank.

5 G reservoir partition will become a refugium later after task is fully established. 

I am planning to add glass cylinder 20g reservoir that I have available. 

Right now tank is cycling. I will be doing 50% weekly RODI water change before introducing any first/coral. IDK if fish goes in first or corls (LPS).

*At the moment I'm working on Aquascaping. 

 

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Bmp78 Urchin

Bmp78

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I changing my mind to go with sanded tank. I think I cam manage the maintenance, it's not big tank. 

What's the best send to add in to this tank?

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WheresTheReef Uber Reefer

WheresTheReef

(edited)

The gyre pump should move a lot of water. I have a larger model on my 120g. I actually added additional powerheads since I didn’t like the unidirectional flow. You will get an idea about your tanks flow after the rock and substrate are in and adjust as needed.
 

For the QT you will need a seachem copper testkit. Make sure and research this. Here are a few good links. I am a strong believer in prophylactic treatment.

https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/copper-treatment.193343/

https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/ich-cryptocaryon-irritans.191226/

https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/velvet-amyloodinium-ocellatum.217570/


I’ve used those gloves. They are heavy duty, but dont allow for much dexterity. I use the Showa gloves in the link below. They are the best gloves I have used. 
https://fishlab.com/aquarium-gloves/

 

If I remember correctly, that tank is 18” deep. You might need to cut that mesh top to fit.

 

If you are going to convert the 5g section into a refugium then I would consider modifying it before you have a tank full of livestock. The glass is all the way to the rim and won’t support flowing back into the return section. I would drill a hole to the desired water height to add a bulkhead. You can add an elbow + pipe to the bulkhead to direct flow down to avoid lots of splashing in the return section. You can always add a plug to the bulkhead for now. Another option is to add a shorter glass down the road. In both cases you will need to remove the glass (unless you can drill it in place). The silicon will need to cure for many hours (maybe a day) while staying dry. This is why I suggest planning ahead. If you need to buy glass I highly recommend Laurel Glass & Mirror.

 

Add livestock slowly. Once you add livestock your tank may experience a mini cycle if your biological filter needs to grow more bacteria to handle the new bioload. Starting with dry rock has its benefits. I went that route. IME it requires a lot of time to mature and leads to longer ugly phases. Once the tank cycles I like to add a small cleanup crew (size based on algae not tank size), some fish and then coral. You can add fish in phases. The reason I add corals later is that they can be more sensitive as your tank establishes.

The sand you choose will be based on both maintenance and livestock needs. A tank your size limits which fish you can keep. Some fish like gobies will need finer sand to sift through. I went with a larger grain size with reef flakes. I am able to to use a gravel vacuum when needed and it doesn’t get blown around as easily. Add rock then sand either way.

 

 

Edited by WheresTheReef
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Bmp78 Urchin

Bmp78

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(edited)

Wheres THeReef,

 

Thank you for your suggestions.. I am looking for a quick solution to my sump. If someone can help me make one. I would gladly go for it.

Next challenge I have is making saltwater mix for water change. with 45g (34g tank+15g sump - bio media and rocks = 40g). How can I select a barrel to prepare these mix.

Also what should be my top off line to make sure that that's the actual targeted gallons (-) leftover for heater and pump. So later on all I have to do is come up with measurement and add to the reservoir.

Question: What's the best salt for LPS, SPS corals and few fishes.

Question: Is it ok to setup salt mix barrel in the Garage and push water to first floor? Which pump can push water gently from garage to second floor?

Edited by Bmp78
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Bmp78 Urchin

Bmp78

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play_72dp.png
 
 
Hello everyone,
 
So I installed Maxspect XF330 Gyre Pump and its keep spitting out bubbles. It's leveled, only other side is spitting air. To avoid that I have move this lover then where it is now. It will then get in to the side view. My overflow is on the other side going to sump. 
Should I installed this vertical? 
If yes, which side should it be installed? On the overflow side so it moves debris to the overflow?  
 
 
 
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DFR Grandmaster Reefer

DFR

Video didn’t load for me.  I’d keep he gyre mounted on wall opposite overflow (or weir). If it is sucking air try dropping it a little lower in the tank.  I have mine mounted so that the top of the outside magnet is about 1.5” off the surface of the water.  If the bubbles were just trapped within the body of the gyre, it’ll work itself out.  Mine usually fully dissipate within a few minutes.

 

By keeping it mounted horizontally, it’ll help with evaporation (to reduce heat in tank) as well as aid in Oxygen/Co2 transfer with the room.

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Bmp78 Urchin

Bmp78

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hi Thank you for your reply.

 

I don't have any heavy lights, I have 2 24" T5 and IT2060 Evergrow LEDs.. They don't produce much heat, but I always question. Do I have enough lite for corals.

@DFR @WheresTheReef 

Is if possible to setup refugium in the tank overflow corner?

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WheresTheReef Uber Reefer

WheresTheReef

39 minutes ago, Bmp78 said:

hi Thank you for your reply.

 

I don't have any heavy lights, I have 2 24" T5 and IT2060 Evergrow LEDs.. They don't produce much heat, but I always question. Do I have enough lite for corals.

@DFR @WheresTheReef 

Is if possible to setup refugium in the tank overflow corner?


That light combo will definitely grow coral. Since that tank is really shallow you won’t have to run the LEDs at 100%. Once you get the PAR meter you will get a better idea at what intensity to run the LEDs. The lowest light level will be by the overflow since the mounting was shifted. It would be easy to shift everything over if you wanted more light on the overflow side. It would take drilling holes for the bolts holding the LED. The rest is just small screws.

 

 I personally wouldn’t run a refugium in the overflow. There is no emergency drain that would save your tank from flooding if the drain clogged. I liked your idea of converting that right section of the sump into your refugium. You can easily cut out the existing glass, buy a shorter glass piece and silicone it in.

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WheresTheReef Uber Reefer

WheresTheReef

18 hours ago, Bmp78 said:

@WheresTheReef 

Do you know what kind of fish food I should buy?

Depends on a lot of things. Most importantly it depends on the fish you are looking to add. I’d imagine all your fish would be very easy and eat just about anything. Specialized eaters like mandarins etc shouldn’t be added until your tank is mature.

 

I have always preferred frozen over dry foods. I feed my fish a combination of LRS Fish Frenzy, Hikari mysis shrimp , Hikari Spirulina Brine shrimp and PE Calunus. I also feed green and purple seaweed sheets for the tangs. The main downside to just frozen is that I have to have a sitter come by to feed my fish when I’m out of town. I don’t mind this since my sitter can also peek at everything to make sure it’s all ok.

 

There are lots of dry food options. Maybe others can chime in here. Auto feeders would work with most dry foods. I have tried a few dry foods such as new life spectrum and pe mysis pellets and various flake foods. Some of my fish will eat dry foods, but others won’t. I tried some freeze dried foods, but really hate them.

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