Setting up my very first aquarium sump and I have tons of questions

[IndianaSam]

For background, I recently purchased a used 135g "reef ready" aquarium.  It has been drilled in both back corners and has overflows already installed.  The drilled holes appear to be 1" and 3/4", respectively, with one of each in both corners -- so 2 - 1" and 2 - 3/4" total.  I plan on installing a 40g "long" tank, which is 4' long, underneath for the sump.

 

Would a "Herbie" style drain in one corner be the most appropriate?  With the 3/4" as my main drain and 1" as the emergency drain?  It looks like I could pretty easily place the sump tank so that it's a straight shot for the drains to avoid anywhere that air could collect in the drain.  I guess I would run the pump return into the other corner through one of the other holes and then should I just plug the fourth with a bulkhead?  Most of my "Herbie" knowledge comes from here --> https://gmacreef.com/herbie-overflow-reef-tank-plumbing-method-basics/

 

This tank will be in my basement with the rest of my aquariums so noise isn't necessarily a big issue and I was thinking of going with an AC pump rather than DC.  Any recommended brands and GPH?  

 

I'm sure I'll have more questions, but I wanted to start this reasonably short and sweet

 

Thanks in advance,

Sam

Edited October 4, 2019 by IndianaSam
verbage

[IndianaSam]

Whoops. Just measured them and the holes are 2” and 1.5”. 

[Origami]

The two corner overflows are there to facilitate surface skimming in both corners, so you want one active in each corner if at all possible. Otherwise, you could find yourself with an organic scum layer floating in one corner of the tank. The layer can both be unsightly and inhibit oxygen transfer at the water surface. Surface agitation (using directed flow from a pump) can typically address this, but I wouldn't close one corner off if you have other options. A more traditional way of adapting this type of tank to the Herbie-style overflow is to put independent Herbie overflows in each corner and tune their behavior as appropriate. In this case, you have to bring your return over the side of the tank. Some have tried other methods (e.g. using a balance pipe to tie the two overflow chambers together) so there are other options that can be used that still provide ample surface skimming.

[IndianaSam]

Thanks for the input, Origami. 

 

I didn't want to out myself like this, but it's going to be a freshwater tank.  Is surface skimming as important in that case?

[Origami]

50 minutes ago, IndianaSam said:

Thanks for the input, Origami. 

 

I didn't want to out myself like this, but it's going to be a freshwater tank.  Is surface skimming as important in that case?

 

Ha! No problem.

 

Yes, there's no reason to think that it would be any different in a freshwater tank. Getting good oxygen transfer and keeping the surface clean is good in both cases.

[Max!]

A FRESH WHAT!!!???? Just kidding lol. For a 135 you could probably fit a much bigger sump under there- maybe a 70 ?

[Guest]

Hi Sam

 

I have two overflows with two holes each in them. I run a bean animal overflow, with my 3/4 as a return in the left overflow, which also houses my emergency 1" drain. There is no real flow in that overflow as Tom mentioned as a result. I've put a Vivid Creations Random Flow Generator on the return pipe and kept it pretty high in the water to keep circulation in the area. I also know that I'll need to do more. About once a week, my powerheads kick into full 100% for "clean" mode, which helps really agitate all the water in the tank. 

 

Another option would be to split your return coming back into the tank with a small amount of water actually pointed into that overflow reservoir. This will keep that water circulating as well so you don't build up a stagnate area. 

 

Good luck, even if it is fresh water! ?

[IndianaSam]

Well, I just thought you guys would be the sump experts in the DC area ;-)

 

After a lot of thought, I’m going to run a bean animal system. In the overflow that contains the return and emergency drain, I’ll put a small powerhead/pump in order to keep the water from becoming stagnant. 
 

I’ll post updates or more questions as they come. Once again, thanks for the help!

[Jon Lazar]

Have you considered removing the corner overflows and installing a low-profile internal overflow box like the Shadow/Ghost?  It's more work: it requires plugging your existing holes with bulkheads and drilling the back wall of your tank.  But the real estate you gain back is remarkable.  You can still do a bean animal plumbing setup.

[IndianaSam]

First of all, thanks to everyone who replied. Your input helped a bunch. I decided to go with a BeAn Animal configuration in my tank. To circumvent the issue of stagnant water in the overflow containing the return and emergency drain, I’m filling it with sand for a deep sand bed to a few inches from the weir. 
 

Secondly, if interested, you can read about my build progress here: https://www.capitalcichlids.org/forums/threads/setting-up-my-135g-with-sump.36809/post-283574

[treesprite]

Looks like you only have two drains, while a Bean Animal is 3 drains. 

[IndianaSam]

5 hours ago, treesprite said:

Looks like you only have two drains, while a Bean Animal is 3 drains. 

The left overflow has the siphon and open drains while the right overflow has the emergency drain. Maybe I’m misunderstanding, but isn’t that a Bean Animal?

[AlanM]

5 hours ago, IndianaSam said:

The left overflow has the siphon and open drains while the right overflow has the emergency drain. Maybe I’m misunderstanding, but isn’t that a Bean Animal?

 

It pretty much is.  Not a classic one, but does the same thing.  

[treesprite]

25 minutes ago, AlanM said:

 

It pretty much is.  Not a classic one, but does the same thing.  

Oh, you have it split between two overflows. I almost forgot some tanks have those kinds of overflows.

[IndianaSam]

1 hour ago, treesprite said:

Oh, you have it split between two overflows. I almost forgot some tanks have those kinds of overflows.

Yup, it’s a reasonably old tank. When I bought it, I hadn’t the slightest clue about the state of the art for sumps and plumbing. If I were to do this again, I’d probably buy an undrilled tank, drill it myself and put in newer/better rear overflow. 

[Jon Lazar]

5 minutes ago, IndianaSam said:

Yup, it’s a reasonably old tank. When I bought it, I hadn’t the slightest clue about the state of the art for sumps and plumbing. If I were to do this again, I’d probably buy an undrilled tank, drill it myself and put in newer/better rear overflow. 

 

Why don't you do it now then with your current tank?  Consider it a practice for your forever tank.

 

[IndianaSam]

14 minutes ago, Jon Lazar said:

 

Why don't you do it now then with your current tank?  Consider it a practice for your forever tank.

 

I’ve already tested my wife’s patience enough for now. I’m going to give it a year or two and then build a large acrylic tank ;-)

[treesprite]

3 hours ago, IndianaSam said:

I’ve already tested my wife’s patience enough for now. I’m going to give it a year or two and then build a large acrylic tank ;-)

Yes, you can't mess with the WAF (wife acceptance factor).