Setting up quarantine tank

[morgan175]

And keep in mind, if you do end up running cupramine or copper safe the ammonia badge doesn't work as well...

I'd also like to say bangaii are not very hardy..

Foxface yes, also if clowns are on your list they are one of the hardiest...(being of the same demon spawn as damsels..)

Thank you.

 

My list.

Kole tang

Fox face

Copper band

Flame

Diamond goby

Bengai cardinals 3

 

There will never ever and I mean never be a clown fish in my tank. I don't want people saying nemo

 

You want to help me on the order.

 

 

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[Tracy G]

Depending on the size tank I may start with the Cole Tang?  It can aid with clean up of algae.  

[WheresTheReef]

 

Besides an expensive ATo unit is there another way to do this.

If I go 20. I have to get new everything. I more then agree with you on that point.

This is a learning curve.


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Might be able to pick up a "cheap" ATO in the for sale forum if you post a WTB there. You can also look up gravity fed ATO which shouldn't be too expensive to build if your handy.

 

My tank is only a 40g breeder so no experience with larger fish/open swimmers, but I think the Kole tang, fox face, and copper band might appreciate a larger QT than 10g. Not that it can't be done, especially if the fish are small, but the fish may be more stressed if they are cramped. 

 

Many people keep multiple fish in a QT at a time. I had 1 sick fish die in a QT due to some parasite I didn't catch early. Two other fish in the same QT died a day later. Three dead fish instead of just 1 really sucked. I learned to keep 1 fish at a time in the QT to reduce the risk of loss. I know this makes adding fish to your tank a longer process, but you shouldn't really rush stuff in this hobby anyways.

 

Make sure and research each fish you plan to get. Have fun and take it slow. How big is your DT?

 

Some of WAMAS' sponsors now claim to be selling quarantined fish. This might be worth looking into since it can be a little challenging to run a good QT. Definitely worth it to buy a fish that should be healthy after going through a proper quarantine process.

[Orion]

Hi Morgan,

 

First off - good for you on setting up a quarantine tank! As someone who tried "winging" in the past without putting fish through at least a 30 day QT period I got bit, BAD! So I started reading up on QT procedures, and there was a ton of information out there. By far the best resource I came across is Mark Callahan's (Mr. Saltwatertank) book.

https://www.mrsaltwatertank.com/quarantine/

 

It has the answers to all of your questions. I highly recommend reading it!

 

If you are interested in saving some time, and having someone else do the QT for you, the only vendor on here I know of that does proper quarantining is Exotic Reef Creations.

PM monkiboy and he will be more than happy to go over your stock list with you.

[morgan175]

Well I came home with nothing today. So this adventure is on hold.

 

 

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[morgan175]

I forgot I have an old brs doser I can hook up. It doses 1.1 ml I just have to dial it in.

 

 

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[surf&turf]

Well I came home with nothing today. So this adventure is on hold.

 

 

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That's not good, another good source of fish are people getting out of the hobby. 

[DuffyGeos]

Thank you.

My list.

Kole tang

Fox face

Copper band

Flame

Diamond goby

Bengai cardinals 3

There will never ever and I mean never be a clown fish in my tank. I don't want people saying nemo

You want to help me on the order.

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That is a shame....there are some beautiful clowns out there.....IMO

[morgan175]

 

Here it is

 

 

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[Wrench]

I'd replace that rock with an air driven sponge filter. They make good biological filters in a QT tank and help with oxygenation and gas exchange. 

[Djplus1]

So do you not have ANY fish currently? Or are you just adding to a light fish load? In my opinion, if it's the first, I would just drop the fish in the display as it would be much less stressful for the fish and you're not worrying about giving your non existent older fish diseases. If it's the second, carry on.

[icsparks]

Here is how I started up my QT,

1, Bought a 29 gal tank kit had filter heater and hood, I built my own cheep stand.

2. Used fresh ro/di water and filled tank.

3. Added pvc pipe for hiding places.

3. started cycle by adding a pinch of food to tank.

4. After 8 weeks tank was stuck in cycle. Had the ammonia spike then nitrites but would not go down. figured out that filter did not have enough surface area for bacteria to grow.

5. I added rock rubble and bio balls from my existing 20 gallon tank to the QT filter box.

6. The cycle completed within a week after adding the extra media.

7. Did a 30% water change after cycle to drop the nitrates down and added one fish.

8. Do weekly 10% water changes,

9.  I QT new fish at least 30 days and longer if needed.

 

If you plan on cycling a few fish through the QT tank over a few months. Then I would cycle the tank just like you would a normal setup and then add the fish.

Ammonia will spike very quickly in a tank that cant handle a bio load and adds stress to the fish. 10 gallon tank is quite small for a QT for the fish in your list.

+1 sponge filters will add more surface area for the bacteria to grow.

[Wrench]

So do you not have ANY fish currently? Or are you just adding to a light fish load? In my opinion, if it's the first, I would just drop the fish in the display as it would be much less stressful for the fish and you're not worrying about giving your non existent older fish diseases. If it's the second, carry on.

 

I'll bite. Lets assume the OP takes your advice and drops his new acquisitions into the display tank with no QT or treatment. What if they're carrying a pathogen but not showing symptoms? Now that pathogen is inside the display tank and can and will infect new additions in the future whether they've been QT'd or not. I've followed this advice in the past and it cost me a lot of fish. 

 

I've QT'd quite a few sensitive species and don't feel that a properly set up and cycled QT tank is more stressful than any other tank transfer or introduction. It's certainly less risky and more ethical than dropping new additions into an established tank and putting all other livestock at risk. 

[DuffyGeos]

I'll bite. Lets assume the OP takes your advice and drops his new acquisitions into the display tank with no QT or treatment. What if they're carrying a pathogen but not showing symptoms? Now that pathogen is inside the display tank and can and will infect new additions in the future whether they've been QT'd or not. I've followed this advice in the past and it cost me a lot of fish. 

 

I've QT'd quite a few sensitive species and don't feel that a properly set up and cycled QT tank is more stressful than any other tank transfer or introduction. It's certainly less risky and more ethical than dropping new additions into an established tank and putting all other livestock at risk. 

+1

[GraffitiSpotCorals]

Just be sure that the fish you get look pretty healthy.  I got some fish (2 clowns) from there that went through Quantum's quarantine treatment, but when I got them back to my tank, I lost one in 3 days and the other a week later.  Both due to gill flukes (I treated to late) that had to have come from that store since these were my first two fish.  I've had success with King of Corals for healthy fish.

This is why the op is doing the best thing. My suggestion is qt your own fish. You can NOT be sure vendors are properly qting your fish. Just because a fish is bought from a place that says they are qted doesnt mean they are not sick. Just because the store has a qt system and says they know what they are doing does NOT mean your getting healthy fish. In most cases the only person who can make sure your fish are healthy is you.

Op, good luck with your qt, it is a fun part of the hobby to learn and can be frustrating but keep your head up if something doesnt go as planned.

[Wrench]

My point was that just because looks healthy that doesn't mean it's free of pathogens. It could be carrying any number of things that aren't visible to the naked eye or it could have a very mild case. These pathogens will remain in the system until a more succeptible fish  or stressor is introduced, at which point it can wipe out an entire system. Internal parasites and gill infestations are prime examples as the fish will look 100% healthy on the outside. That's why the more reputable retailers and hobbyists treat all fish prophylactically. 

 

Additionally, it's very difficult to QT on a retail level and still remain competitive in the market. Let's assume that wholesale fish are truly quarantined properly. Once they enter the retailer's system all that QT goes out the window and IMO is unethical for the store to advertise these as QT'd fish.  If you want it done right you've got to do it yourself. 

[morgan175]

I have been feeding dr g's food all three frozen types. I'm just trying to have success this time around. Last tank was a disaster 6 years ago. Thanks for input.

 

 

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[Djplus1]

I'll bite. Lets assume the OP takes your advice and drops his new acquisitions into the display tank with no QT or treatment. What if they're carrying a pathogen but not showing symptoms? Now that pathogen is inside the display tank and can and will infect new additions in the future whether they've been QT'd or not. I've followed this advice in the past and it cost me a lot of fish. 

 

I've QT'd quite a few sensitive species and don't feel that a properly set up and cycled QT tank is more stressful than any other tank transfer or introduction. It's certainly less risky and more ethical than dropping new additions into an established tank and putting all other livestock at risk. 

No offense, but where do you stand on ich never actually being cured or out of a fish that had it? You can "cure" all day, but if you're one of the many that insist that the fish still has ich dormant, your sickness will ALWAYS be there regardless if you ever see it in your QT or display. 

 

Once again, I'm not saying to not quarantine at all, just saying as first fish (if this is the case) you are more likely to have the fish successfully transition to the tank. 

[YHSublime]

It's one of those things that will always be divided, IMO.

 

Some say throw fish in and let them work it out. Others say observe and then treat if needed. Others say QT everything.

 

There are many schools if thought, and at the end if the day, it's up to us as hobbyists to educate ourselves and do what works best.

 

As for this thread, let's keep on track with helping the OP set up a QT tank!

[Wrench]

No offense, but where do you stand on ich never actually being cured or out of a fish that had it? You can "cure" all day, but if you're one of the many that insist that the fish still has ich dormant, your sickness will ALWAYS be there regardless if you ever see it in your QT or display. 

 

Once again, I'm not saying to not quarantine at all, just saying as first fish (if this is the case) you are more likely to have the fish successfully transition to the tank. 

 

If the fish is treated for the proper amount of time and copper treatments are administered at the proper levels for the correct amount of time then there is no way for ich to make it into the display. The key that many people don't realize, and what leads to re-infestation of the DT, is that everything wet must be QT'd. Anything that's wet has the possiblity of introducing ich back to the system. 

[icsparks]

There is nothing to prevent you from introducing something that was hitchhiking on a coral, rock algae, snail or crab that wasn't QT'd  I know this for a fact when I had perfectly healthy fish for over 3 months and got some algae from a local reefer for my sump and the day after adding the algae my two clown fish got sick with Brooklynella. I lost both fish over just adding algae from another reefers tank. On a happy note my foxface that was also in the tank never got it. BF once said "an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure" so that's why I will still try to QT new fish.

[DuffyGeos]

There is nothing to prevent you from introducing something that was hitchhiking on a coral, rock algae, snail or crab that wasn't QT'd  I know this for a fact when I had perfectly healthy fish for over 3 months and got some algae from a local reefer for my sump and the day after adding the algae my two clown fish got sick with Brooklynella. I lost both fish over just adding algae from another reefers tank. On a happy note my foxface that was also in the tank never got it. BF once said "an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure" so that's why I will still try to QT new fish.

 

You got to love BF quotes.....

[Tracy G]

There is nothing to prevent you from introducing something that was hitchhiking on a coral, rock algae, snail or crab that wasn't QT'd I know this for a fact when I had perfectly healthy fish for over 3 months and got some algae from a local reefer for my sump and the day after adding the algae my two clown fish got sick with Brooklynella. I lost both fish over just adding algae from another reefers tank. On a happy note my foxface that was also in the tank never got it. BF once said "an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure" so that's why I will still try to QT new fish.

Although I agree that would not negate the news or benefit to a QT. You are still lowering the risk but QT your fish.

 

 

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[morgan175]

Ok petco here has 1$ gallon sale what size tank in stead of 10 gallon. Like to be small as possible.

 

 

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[DuffyGeos]

I like the 20L which I have bought at that sale. In fact, I have 3 of them sitting in my basement waiting for me to set up my 3 QT systems