xabo April 7, 2014 Author April 7, 2014 (edited) I tried glass bracing first with 1/2 inch glass, but couldn't get it to set. So in theory my tank dry is 18 inches wide, and made of 1/2 inch glass on front and back...so I got two 17 X 2 inch plates and used an absurd amount of silicone to no avail. If you got this route I suggest you just go all the way and try euro bracing the edges. Maybe something like this front to back? Edited April 7, 2014 by xabo
wildcrazyjoker81 April 7, 2014 April 7, 2014 (edited) Maybe something like this front to back? This is what I was going to try next until luckily I found the brace replacement. QR was also helping me get a new brace from the manufacturers before I found the one posted earlier. Very easy to do, but like others have said, drain down as much as you can and put on some clamps for the time being. Edited April 7, 2014 by wildcrazyjoker81
matt April 8, 2014 April 8, 2014 Okay, I had 2 problems on my 220. 1st, one of the main braces was broken in the middle so I glued acrylic strips with weld-on #16 and screwed it all together with nylon screws & nuts Then a new crack formed near the edge of the tank, which I glued So I made this brace Here it is installed It's not pretty but I don't usually notice it. It's not TotM material but it seems to be holding! This, painted to match your trim may be good backup plan. I'm betting you have to empty the tank almost entirely if you take the full top frame off during replacement
GaryL April 8, 2014 April 8, 2014 chip (flowerseller) had the same problem years ago. i think he used a metal screw rod and metal angle brackets and sealed it all up with silicone so it wouldnt rust.
Kevnjeep April 16, 2014 April 16, 2014 If it's not fixed yet you can get a large clamp from lowes or Home Depot and put it in the middle for the time being. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN
xabo April 16, 2014 Author April 16, 2014 If it's not fixed yet you can get a large clamp from lowes or Home Depot and put it in the middle for the time being. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN Been told that it will be 3-4 weeks before I can get a new top trim peice so i'll follow your suggestion............Thanks.
DCReefer1964 April 16, 2014 April 16, 2014 Been told that it will be 3-4 weeks before I can get a new top trim peice so i'll follow your suggestion............Thanks. It is best to relieve some pressure before appling the clamps, or apply them just snug to make contact.
xabo April 16, 2014 Author April 16, 2014 I plan to lower water level by 1/3 to 1/2before applying clamps.......would this be enough?
xabo April 16, 2014 Author April 16, 2014 Camp is in place........tightened to the point where the snapped braces are within 1/16 to 1/8 of the edge of the trim.
Piper April 18, 2014 April 18, 2014 chip (flowerseller) had the same problem years ago. i think he used a metal screw rod and metal angle brackets and sealed it all up with silicone so it wouldnt rust. Haven't been around much, but just caught this. Did the same thing with mine last month. 5ft angle brackets and a couple of coarse thread rods. It's still slightly bowed, but cranking down maybe a quarter turn every couple days. It's much better than it was, but I may never get it completely back until I replace the tank which I hope to do in the next year or two. I'm just not sure I see the need to risk pushing it back to square when I've alleviated most of the stress already? Curious other opinions. Is a slightly bowed tank still endangered?
ArtFully Acrylic (Adam B) April 18, 2014 April 18, 2014 Hey Xabo, here's a bit of help.... First off, go to HD, Lowes, or even better....Harbor Freight (cheaper) and get a sufficiently long bar clamp. This should keep you structurally sound in the interim. As for the amount of bow you have, you may not see it. Best way to check is with a 4' level held up to the front panel. Bow can be checked both horizontally and vertically. Vertically the heaviest bow will generally trend towards the bottom 1/3rd at it's widest (higher pressure lower in tank). Horizontally, it will naturally be in the center. It is potentially possible for you to replace the top brace with a new plastic one or glass. If you can find a new plastic one that fits then great...use it. If going with glass, note that many glass suppliers will charge you a square foot minimum PER piece. For example, one local glass supplier in manassas nearby charges a minimum of 3sf per piece. This means if say the glass is $5/sf and you need a piece 24"x6" you will pay $15 for it...not $5. This can surprise many that don't expect it...especially if you are buying 5 pieces minimum for a proper eurobrace. And if you are going with 1/2" glass...it won't be $5/sf. If replacing the plastic brace be prepared to exert some elbow grease to get the old one and all of it's silicone off the glass. As for the cause of the break, it's possible to have been the MH's...particularly if they sit in a canopy or directly over the brace and relatively close to the tank. Note also that if you are going to go through the trouble of replacing the brace I would strongly recommend you do a reseal on the tank. At 15-18 years old, the silicone in the tank currently is likely in need of a refresh soon so you may as well do at the same time if you intend to keep it. This doesn't mean rebuilding the whole tank, but would require a complete take down of your system. You would then go through the process of scraping out all of the silicone on the INSIDE of the tank, not the silicone in between panes holding tank together, and then resealing all internal seams with a fresh bead of silicone. Just some food for thought as you determine what it is that you would like to do with your system.
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