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Let's talk Hanna Checkers


BowieReefer84

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So, I have done a few experiments with my ULR PHOSPHORUS CHECKER.  Here are my observations:

 

1 - It is easier to fold an index card in half and using it to get reagent into vial, then from out of the packet.

2- When I use a single vial and add the reagent I found I was getting a reading of 60+/-ppb.  This was after shaking for about a minute or two.

3 - This didn't seem right as I have a TON of gfo in my sump.  I decided to fill the 2nd vial with water and use TWO vials to run the test.  I first added the reagent to the 2nd vial and mixed the heck out of it.  Shook it for about 5 minutes, and let any microbubbles settle out.

4 - I then used vial one (tank water) as the C1 sample, then when it said add C2 I used the premixed vial with the reagent.

 

This second method has given me repeatable results b/t 14ppb-23ppb, which is well within the standard of error for this test kit.  

 

Therefore I am getting 60+/- VS 19+/-

 

I think test #2 is probably a better more realistic number.  Does anyone else use both vials?

 

Thoughts?

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Should I be able to repeat with the same results using the same vials tomorrow or the next day?  

 

I bought a standard kit from Hanna that consists of two vials NOT to be opened.  It is supposed to test b/t 90-110ppb, and I was able to get 90ppb running the standard test.

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I am playing with my ULR. I am only using a single vial, and I am getting results around 20 ppb. I was testing close to zero with the original LR Phosphate tester. This thing is pretty sensitive!

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I am playing with my ULR. I am only using a single vial, and I am getting results around 20 ppb. I was testing close to zero with the original LR Phosphate tester. This thing is pretty sensitive!

I wonder if you try the two vial test if your results will vary?  How long do you mix/shake while doing it with a single vial?

 

 

If youre keeping track of which vial was used as the control and which as the test, I would switch them and repeat the two vial test.

You mean test water with reagent first, then tank water with no reagent second?  What would that do?

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Make sure you wipe the outside of the vial clean as well. I use one, and get readings as low .003

 

I open the reagent packets all the way up and form a V with the sides to make sure I get it all in. Still a PIA. 

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No, i mean you have vial a and vial b. do one test with vial a as C1 calibration and vial b as C2 test with the reagent in it. Then repeat test after cleaning vials with vial b as C1 having clean tank water and vial a as C2 with the reagent in it.

 

This lets you normalize for the effect of the vials.

 

Actually, you wouldnt have to use another reagent packet if the timing of the color change is not critical. You could carefully pour the reacted sample and control into 2 clean glass flasks, then switch them around after cleaning and retest with the very same reacted sample and control water.

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Im looking into whether or not any of the spectrometers at work can measure phosphate, but I think these little hanna checkers are about the state of the art, even for labs.

 

Most of chemistry seems to be trying to figure out how to turn the thing you're trying to measure into a color change.

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I only use 1 vial.

 

I also cut 2 corners off of the reagent pack and make a V to pour the reagent.  Very easy.

 

I get repeatable results from inverting the vial for 20 seconds, then swirling the vial for a minute and a half.  I don't know about accuracy, as I have no standard to test against.  I CAN say that my reef does much better with a low but measurable level of phosphorous with the checker (5-10 ppb) than when the checker measures zero all the time, due to overdosing vinegar/vodka/NOPOX.  I've been through that a few times.

Edited by Marc Weaver
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I only use 1 vial.

 

I also cut 2 corners off of the reagent pack and make a V to pour the reagent. Very easy.

 

I get repeatable results from inverting the vial for 20 seconds, then swirling the vial for a minute and a half. I don't know about accuracy, as I have no standard to test against. I CAN say that my reef does much better with a low but measurable level of phosphorous with the checker (5-10 ppb) than when the checker measures zero all the time, due to overdosing vinegar/vodka/NOPOX. I've been through that a few times.

My approach is very similar. Single vial. I cut the packet diagonally across the corners on a curve, folding a vee to create a funnel before starting the test. Clean glass thoroughly. Don't over agitate. Orient the same way for the calibration and the measurement passes. Rinse visa clean after the test. My results are pretty consistent.

 

Sent from my phone

 

 

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My approach is very similar. Single vial. I cut the packet diagonally across the corners on a curve, folding a vee to create a funnel before starting the test. Clean glass thoroughly. Don't over agitate. Orient the same way for the calibration and the measurement passes. Rinse visa clean after the test. My results are pretty consistent.

 

Sent from my phone

Do you shake the vial or just swirl it?  I think my issue was shaking to hard creating microbubbles.  I have 48 more tests, so sooner or later I should get consistent results.

 

 

 

Heres how you cut the packets.

That's simple enough.  Thank you Steve.  My wife will be glad I don't steel all her stationary and flash cards to fold in half running tests.

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Heres how you cut the packets.

 

That's just how I do it! (But rather than making two separate cuts, I turn the scissors around in a deep arc and fold it just like is shown here. It works great.

 

Do you shake the vial or just swirl it?  I think my issue was shaking to hard creating microbubbles.  I have 48 more tests, so sooner or later I should get consistent results.

 

To minimize bubbles, I turn it over several times and also swirl it. It's easy to create those bubbles that stick to the inside of the vial and interfere with transmission of the light that's used to measure the color of the reacted sample, so I try not to agitate the sample-filled vial too much.

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Yea, I think shaking the bejesus out of it is my issue.  I will work on my inverting/swirlling skills moving forward.

 

Set it on top of your phone on vibrate and start calling it.

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I always use my phone as a stop watch, and start it once C1 is finished.  I then add the reagant, and then alternate between inverting the vial, and holding it horizontally and rolling it.  Once the phone says it's been 2:40 seconds I load it up and do the reading.  It's been pretty consistent for me. 

 

When i first got it (the ULR one) I did some comparison between the 1 and 2 vial methods.  1 of them was consistently 10-15ppb higher (although i forget which one), so i decided to go with the 1 vial method to prevent any errors from calibrating with a different vial. 

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  • 2 weeks later...

I tested 3gal of freshly mixed (24hours) instant ocean.  It was made with distilled water.  Tested 38ppb on my hanna checker... Now I am thoroughly confused.

 

Anyone else able to run the test on freshly mixed water?

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Now you have me really thinking.

 

I just got 33 with a freshly mixed batch of DD Ocean.

 

I got 15 with 0 TDS RO/DI

 

I think I may have to toss this thing.  I have spent about $50 on GFO chasing the numbers this thing has generated.   I should known better than to chase test numbers.   The tank has been looking fine.

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Now you have me really thinking.

 

I just got 33 with a freshly mixed batch of DD Ocean.

 

I got 15 with 0 TDS RO/DI

 

I think I may have to toss this thing.  I have spent about $50 on GFO chasing the numbers this thing has generated.   I should known better than to chase test numbers.   The tank has been looking fine.

I will try testing distilled water to see what I get.  We will get to the bottom of this.  I'll be contacting hanna before I throw away $50.  Or I will take to RC and put them on blast if they don't make it right...  haha

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The old aquarium water testing report showed a lot of salts have some amount of nitrates and phosphate...very low and probably only detectable without the ULR checker.

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The old aquarium water testing report showed a lot of salts have some amount of nitrates and phosphate...very low and probably only detectable without the ULR checker.

You have a link to this report?  I'm not familiar with it.

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