Interested in Apex/RK controlled d120's?

[AlanM]

Interesting that it is PWM controlled. One of the users of the ReefAngel forums just reported that his evergrow he bought on ebay in May was pwm controlled. He initially hooked it up to one of the DC 0-10v outputs on the reef angel, but that didnt work. Then he switched the jumper inside the reef angel to output PWM instead (on reef angel it is easy to switch to output either) and it just started working.

 

You arent going to get PWM out of your reefkeeper, but if you want to PM me your address I can mail you a board for free that accepts 0-10v DC and outputs 5v PWM. I have some extras. The board needs to be powered by 12v, so you will have to scrounge a 12v wall wart and cut the connector off to supply the running voltage, but that is all.

[AlanM]

Wait, does the reefkeeper only output 0-5v DC for control? If so, I can load new code on the little board I send to consider that full range and do 0-5v PWM from 0-5v DC. Actually, any arduino board from radio shack and 5 lines of program can do the same job with no modifications.

[Origami]

This thread makes me want to open up one of my (several Evergrow & Evergrow clones) lights just to see what drivers are in there...

[Jon M Profeta]

Wait, does the reefkeeper only output 0-5v DC for control? If so, I can load new code on the little board I send to consider that full range and do 0-5v PWM from 0-5v DC. Actually, any arduino board from radio shack and 5 lines of program can do the same job with no modifications.

the reef keeper only has 2 ports for 0-10v. what do you mean loading code onto what board? the alc? i just checked there website and they are coming out with a module this month called Archon that is supposedly going to blow the competitions controllers away.... looks really cool but from what info i found its going to be expensive, but what isn't in this hobby..lol.. 

[AlanM]

Jon, here are the boards I have.  I'm willing to send one to you if you want it to try out and want to paypal me a couple dollars for postage.  They take in 10V analog (DC) and output 5V digital (PWM).  They all work.  The StevesLEDs ones on the left react a little bit faster, but the O2Surplus (smart guy on Reef Central) boards on the right can be reprogrammed if you buy a 6-pin FTDI to USB cable on ebay or somewhere.

 

[Jon M Profeta]

Jon, here are the boards I have. I'm willing to send one to you if you want it to try out and want to paypal me a couple dollars for postage. They take in 10V analog (DC) and output 5V digital (PWM). They all work. The StevesLEDs ones on the left react a little bit faster, but the O2Surplus (smart guy on Reef Central) boards on the right can be reprogrammed if you buy a 6-pin FTDI to USB cable on ebay or somewhere.

 

I would do that. But how would this hook up. I am pretty good with electronics but just need to be put in the right direction. Lmk.

 

 

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[Jon M Profeta]

And i think I would need 2 of them. Right I have 3 lights 6 drivers. There is 2 channels on the alc.

 

 

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[Jon M Profeta]

Let me know what you want to do. I have no problem throwing you some money.

 

 

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[Jon M Profeta]

Hello. Is there anyone out there.

 

 

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[AlanM]

Jon, you'll have to do some hookup work on your own, but if you want to paypal me $5.75 to munter@gmail.com for priority mail postage (I have to pay the retail rate at the post office), I'll stick one of the green ones made by O2Surplus on RC originally in the mail to you that can take 4 channels of 0-10V input and output 4 channels of 5V PWM. 

 

You need to supply a 12V supply voltage on the two terminals on the left side of the green boards.  You'd do that with a 12V power supply from a surplus pile somewhere or buy one from Radio Shack or something and cut the plug off and screw down the wires going in to the board.  Then you put the 0-10V input on one end (labelled on the circuit board) and the 5V PWM comes out the other (also labelled).  You probably just need to use two of the channels since the D120s have two channels and you can split it a few times, so you'd have 4 wires going to the input side for your 2 channels coming form the ALC on the reefkeeper and you'd have 4 wires, split into, I guess, 6 each, coming out the 5V PWM output going to the black and yellow pins on your various drivers for each channel.

[Jon M Profeta]

Jon, you'll have to do some hookup work on your own, but if you want to paypal me $5.75 to munter@gmail.com for priority mail postage (I have to pay the retail rate at the post office), I'll stick one of the green ones made by O2Surplus on RC originally in the mail to you that can take 4 channels of 0-10V input and output 4 channels of 5V PWM. 

 

You need to supply a 12V supply voltage on the two terminals on the left side of the green boards.  You'd do that with a 12V power supply from a surplus pile somewhere or buy one from Radio Shack or something and cut the plug off and screw down the wires going in to the board.  Then you put the 0-10V input on one end (labelled on the circuit board) and the 5V PWM comes out the other (also labelled).  You probably just need to use two of the channels since the D120s have two channels and you can split it a few times, so you'd have 4 wires going to the input side for your 2 channels coming form the ALC on the reefkeeper and you'd have 4 wires, split into, I guess, 6 each, coming out the 5V PWM output going to the black and yellow pins on your various drivers for each channel.

Let me know your paypal email address and i will send the money today.. 

[lnevo]

but if you want to paypal me $5.75 to munter@gmail.com for priority mail postage

[Jon M Profeta]

 

but if you want to paypal me $5.75 to munter@gmail.com for priority mail postage

 

i cannot believe that i missed that  .. thanks!!!

[Jon M Profeta]

I just got it today I'm going to try to do something this weekend. As soon as I'm done and I wired up I'll let you know how it works. I had an old router and I'm going to use this as the 12 V supply

 

 

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[Jon M Profeta]

Can I keep the dimmers hooked up or do they need to be disconnected completely.

 

 

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[AlanM]

I think I know what you mean.  I believe you should take the dimmer knobs off by disconnecting the white 3-wire plug and splice in to the black wire for the PWM- connection and the yellow wire for the PWM+ connection coming from that little board I sent.  It won't put out any PWM signal unless it's getting a voltage in on the DC-in channel, though.

[AlanM]

But now since you're cutting your light wires, I should restate that I'm only educated guessing what you need to do.  Without seeing it or having it on my meter I can't guarantee you won't fry it or yourself.

[lnevo]

I disconnected the connector and just shoved wires inside the pins. But yes i think it best to disconnect the dimmers.

[lnevo]

I am hoping to have some news about this kit soon. Will keep everyone posted

Btw, the first kit they sent me worked but it had issues. I am finally getting some new ones that should work better I hope. Hopefully will have better news to report soon...

[Jon M Profeta]

I will be attempting this tomorrow. Wish me luck. I'm going to try it first with no led lights it drivers on just to make sure that the voltage is dropped down to 5 volts and it is varying the alc.

 

 

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[Jon M Profeta]

So I hooked it up. Just not to the drivers yet. I measured the voltage in a ramp up of two min and it works perfect. Next I will be hooking up the drivers. Just have to find some more time. I have a 3yrold and a 1 yr old.

 

 

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[Jon M Profeta]

Here's a pic.

 

 

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[AlanM]

Hey, looks awesome.  Hope it actually dims the lights.

[Jon M Profeta]

Ok. I hooked it up just now. The house was engulfed in flames. Waiting for the fire department to put out the fire. Lol. J/k. It seems to be working correctly. I set alc to the right times ramp and intensity. So we will see if it works Tonight.

 

 

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[AlanM]

Nice, thanks for following up!  This will be interesting to see PWM directly controlling these lights while run through a convertor board driven from an RLC.  Lots of steps, but it gets the job done.