Sharkey18 May 12, 2013 Share May 12, 2013 Stared dosing Lanthanum Chloride today. System is about 400 gallons. PO4 is at .48 after a 70g water change. Today I mixed 2ml Agent Green Lanthanum chloride in 2 liters of RODI and gravity dosed at 1-2 drops per second into a 100/10/10 micron filter sock setup. PO4 immediately after is .46. Not quite the drop I was hoping for. Going to wait a few hours and then test again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coral Hind May 12, 2013 Share May 12, 2013 I agree, not much of a drop. Tagging along to see how this works for you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nbgen12 May 12, 2013 Share May 12, 2013 Not at all what I expected to see either... Sent from my MB865 using Tapatalk 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sharkey18 May 12, 2013 Author Share May 12, 2013 This stuff is designed for aquaria so I think it requires a much higher amount than the more concentrated pool stuff. I have some of that coming also :-). Agent green recommends 2 drops per gallon. How many drops in 1 ml? I'll go check... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sharkey18 May 12, 2013 Author Share May 12, 2013 OK, 18 drops per ml. I think it's usually 20, but my dropper makes big drops. So that mean I dosed enough for 18 gallons! Hmmmm, gonna need a bit more I think. Can't wait for the pool stuff to arrive! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
basser9 May 13, 2013 Share May 13, 2013 You should put a bowl/cup [plastic tupperware type]in to the sock most of the reaction will take place in the bowl......you will see a white residue stuck to the sides . I dont believe a 10micron bag is low enough i would add a 1micron bag if you dont and dose alot of LC it will stick like glue to your pumps/tank and or your skimmer. I just built a reactor for LC its just a 5 gallon bucket with bioballs draining to a 100/10/1 micron bag setup. The bioballs are getting alot of the sticky white residue at least the ones near where the LC is dripping. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gadgets May 13, 2013 Share May 13, 2013 Following. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
linkfalcon May 13, 2013 Share May 13, 2013 What is this stuff used for on a regular basis Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sharkey18 May 13, 2013 Author Share May 13, 2013 This morning my phosphate reading was .36 which is great news for me. That is with only dosing the 2 ml from yesterday. This morning I am dosing 6 ml in 2 liters and will see what happens. Basser: I have seen your posts about using the 1 micron but 10 seems to be working. I do love the idea of a reaction chamber though, where most of the flocs could settle out and the clean water pumped back in. Linkfalcon: The stuff is usually used to lower phosphates in pools. A lot easier to do in that situation since most pools have large sand filters that filter out the precipitate and even if some gets through there aren't any corals to irritate. Just small children.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sharkey18 May 13, 2013 Author Share May 13, 2013 YAY! Reading after this mornings dose is .21!!!!! Going to wait 24 to 48 hours before doing anything more. Only noticeable change in the tank is improved sps polyp extension. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Origami May 13, 2013 Share May 13, 2013 Great news, Laura. How much of this stuff have you used thus far? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
basser9 May 13, 2013 Share May 13, 2013 Nobody has really used AG that i can tell there very little info on it but the dose and your tank size dont add up. There is a cleaning solution and wipe from hanna your numbers will be off if the glass pipette gets a residue or scratches...... You will be shocked how easy that glass gets scratched up. The residue that sticks to everything is very hard to get off its not like a powder settles on the bottom like dust its very sticky. Filter floss in the socks really works great it sticks to it well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sharkey18 May 13, 2013 Author Share May 13, 2013 It's either 8 or 10 mls. 2 yesterday and either 6 or 8 this morning. I lost count this morning and decided just to go with it... The test kit is fine. I take very careful care of the test vials. They are not scratched. The numbers are not actually not off. The bottle says it should take 800 drops to bring 400g down 1ppm. I have dosed about 150 drops which is a little more than a third of the recommendation. My PO4 is down from .46 to .21 which is .25 ppm. Pretty close, and I expect it'll go down a bit more... Seems right on to me. There is no sticky residue anywhere. Haven't checked the skimmate yet. Or the inside of the filter socks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sharkey18 May 14, 2013 Author Share May 14, 2013 Today it's .26 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gadgets May 14, 2013 Share May 14, 2013 I wonder what this difference is between this stuff and brightwells phosphate E. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sharkey18 May 14, 2013 Author Share May 14, 2013 Probably not much. I bet it's LC. Says it's proprietary phosphate remover... but recommended dosing looks the same. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gadgets May 15, 2013 Share May 15, 2013 Very interesting. Where did you order yours from? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scott711 May 15, 2013 Share May 15, 2013 (edited) I wonder what this difference is between this stuff and brightwells phosphate E. It sounds almost the same. Brightwell never lists the exact ingredients, only saying a proprietary blend of phosphate liquid. Phosphate E has all the characteristics of LC. They claim it is safe for all reef inhabitants. I have read that LC can cause issues with clams. I have used it in my tank very sparingly and have not seen any negative results. Edited May 15, 2013 by scott711 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
basser9 May 15, 2013 Share May 15, 2013 Its all LC the only question is what is it diluted down to. Phosfree is way weaker then seaclear. Phosfree has a little lanthanum sulfate in it. Some products may have a little clarifer mixed in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sharkey18 May 15, 2013 Author Share May 15, 2013 Good to know, thanks Basser! Also, do you dose LC all the time in your reactor or on a schedule or as needed? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Origami May 15, 2013 Share May 15, 2013 Basser, SeaKlear seems to have two different versions of their phosphate remover. One is labeled Phosphate Remover CR and the other is labeled Phosphate Remover Commercial. Do you know which if the one most often used by hobbyists? Looking at the dosage charts for the products, it appears that SeaKlear Phosphate Remover CR is 5 times stronger than PhosFree. (32 ounces of PhosFree treats 10,000 gallons of water, removing 600 ppb of phosphate; while 32 ounces of SeaKlear Phosphate Remover CR will treat 10,000 gallons of water, removing 3,000 ppb of phosphate.) The commercial version is 3 times stronger than the CR version - so it's 15 times more concentrated than the PhosFree. So, depending upon the product used, people should adjust their dosages accordingly. Still, 32 ounces of any of these products should last quite a while for most people. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sharkey18 May 15, 2013 Author Share May 15, 2013 I bought two products: SeaKlear Spa 16 oz. which I ordered off of Amazon. Took about 2 weeks. Agent Green 4 oz. came from Big Al's on line and arrived in a few days which is why I used it first. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Origami May 15, 2013 Share May 15, 2013 Interesting, I didn't see the Phosphate Remover in the Spa line from their website here: http://www.halosourc...s/SeaKlear.aspx I found the product on the web though. Unfortunately, there's not enough information on the label to tell me just how it's concentration compares to the other products. Instructions are here and can also be found on some images of the back label. One can guess based on the usage guidelines but the result would only be approximate. Using this approach, if 3 ounces of product will reduce 1,000 ppb of phosphate in 500 gallons of spa water to zero (the guidelines sort of imply that), then the product is 120x more dilute than SeaKlear Phosphate Remover CR, and 24x more dilute than PhosFree (both made for pools). Agent Green is 1.67 times more concentrated than PhosFree. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
basser9 May 15, 2013 Share May 15, 2013 (edited) The stronger seaclear is not made anymore its all CR. Almost all the reefers have been dosing with the old version of seaclear i have found that PHOSFREE may even be weaker then they claim. There is a stronger version of PHOSFREE at the pool store that looks like the onr to buy. I have some old rock and alot of sand so my dosing is still a work in progess untill my setup settles down. I dose about 6 hrs a day. I will post a video in a bit. Edited May 15, 2013 by basser9 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scott711 May 15, 2013 Share May 15, 2013 here are a couple of articles that discusses dosages and risks: http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2059711 http://www.coralmagazine-us.com/content/foiling-phosphate Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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