Jason Rhoads July 28, 2013 Share July 28, 2013 Looking good! Cant wait to see some plumbing shots! I agree with the others, I really think that room looks better with the tank in there... But I am a bit biased and feel ever room looks better with a tank Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brad908 July 28, 2013 Share July 28, 2013 Looks like you still have a couple feet of space on the wall, upgrade again in 4-5 months. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hminor00 July 28, 2013 Share July 28, 2013 Yes, looking good indeed, Nice! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YHSublime July 28, 2013 Author Share July 28, 2013 Looking good! Cant wait to see some plumbing shots! I agree with the others, I really think that room looks better with the tank in there... But I am a bit biased and feel ever room looks better with a tank Me either. Plumbing will start tomorrow. Looks like you still have a couple feet of space on the wall, upgrade again in 4-5 months. At this rate, I'm not going to rule it out :P Yes, looking good indeed, Nice! Thank you sir! I just picked up this sump. Plumbed for a dart. Originally plumbed for a deep blue pump. It's going to be GLORIOUS having such a large sump that fits. The only problem? I've filled up the tank with 50 gallons of RO/DI, and will have to drain it to slide it out and move it in. Womp womp. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
howaboutme July 29, 2013 Share July 29, 2013 Nice pick up on the sump! Hope your rent includes water....womp womp! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YHSublime July 29, 2013 Author Share July 29, 2013 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YHSublime July 29, 2013 Author Share July 29, 2013 Nice pick up on the sump! Hope your rent includes water....womp womp! Thanks Jack, nope, we don't pay for water. But don't think I pumped all that RO out for nothing... it's going in all my extra buckets and containters while I cuss that 150 and stand out about 2' tomorrow. Just working on my new aquascape, favorite part. Wish Frank would get down this way and help me! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YHSublime July 29, 2013 Author Share July 29, 2013 Looks like you still have a couple feet of space on the wall, upgrade again in 4-5 months. Brad, when do you want to come over and help aquascape this thing? I'm already cluttering my rock together and making huge piles and arches. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sachabballi reef July 29, 2013 Share July 29, 2013 Not wet yet? Slacking.... You are going to really love having the big tank. You have been very successful with the smaller tanks so this will be a blast for you. Are you keeping this as the only tank going forward? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YHSublime July 29, 2013 Author Share July 29, 2013 Not wet yet? Slacking.... You are going to really love having the big tank. You have been very successful with the smaller tanks so this will be a blast for you. Are you keeping this as the only tank going forward? Totally slacking. Had a busy weekend from Friday-Sunday night, just been making RO/DI water and filling her up. Plan on mixing the salt in he tank (just water in there now.) I've probably got about 75 gallons totaled, but I need to empty it out tonight so I can slide my new sump in from the back. Thanks for the kind words. I am really really really looking forward to it. Although my fiance suggested that I actually keep the 57 up and running, I don't think I can fully dedicate the time to keep both systems going. Nor the money, I ordered another it2080, and plan to use the one I currently have in order to have acro growth across the full 6'. In turn, if I kept the 57 running, I would need an additional skimmer, mp40 (not so much need as it is a want), and then just more space in order to keep water mixed for 200 gallons+ of water. I don't see it as realistic, as much as I would like to do it. I expected these cost to incur, but materials and needed equipment for the 150 are adding up quickly. Good news is, I planned on upgrading sooner than later, so I tried to keep that in mind when making equipment purchases. I was nervous about the jump up, but I view it as an opportunity to focus on simplicity! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sachabballi reef July 29, 2013 Share July 29, 2013 Hurry up and get it all grown out so we can all make out on the "new baby on the way sale " Ha ha... The water storage for both fresh and salt definitely take up a ton of space... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlanM July 29, 2013 Share July 29, 2013 Edge 57 planted tank might be nice. 8) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
howaboutme July 29, 2013 Share July 29, 2013 Hurry up and get it all grown out so we can all make out on the "new baby on the way sale " Ha ha... Lol...or...lease is up, we're moving sale! If I recall correctly, you have <1 year...should have signed a 2 year lease so your new tank can mature. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YHSublime July 29, 2013 Author Share July 29, 2013 Hurry up and get it all grown out so we can all make out on the "new baby on the way sale " Ha ha... The water storage for both fresh and salt definitely take up a ton of space... Yikes! Not anytime soon I hope. I don't want to switch Reef Crystals out for pampers. Edge 57 planted tank might be nice. 8) Alan, stop planing seeds! Lol...or...lease is up, we're moving sale! If I recall correctly, you have <1 year...should have signed a 2 year lease so your new tank can mature. No way man, If we do move, it most likely wont be far, we're planting some roots in VA, nothing that can't travel with. I figure a move in a year won't be incredibly stressful on the corals. I've been reading about transporting corals for a while now. Whatever I move with has all been picked up and transported by me anyways. Now the real question is, can I get it plumbed. I guess the better question is, who wants to help me plumb! The real, real question is, "Did I ever know I was going to be typing out plumb/plumbing as much as I have over the past 2 days?" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkiboy July 29, 2013 Share July 29, 2013 i can help you plumb your system once you decide on whatever design you want to go with. we can probably get this thing wet and moving water properly in an afternoon assuming you have all the goodies needed. just need to plan accordingly and find some free time! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YHSublime July 29, 2013 Author Share July 29, 2013 i can help you plumb your system once you decide on whatever design you want to go with. we can probably get this thing wet and moving water properly in an afternoon assuming you have all the goodies needed. just need to plan accordingly and find some free time! That would be super helpful. I'm fairly sure I know exactly what I need in order to make it happen, I have just never worked with PVC before, and the sizes are slightly confusing. I know that since my holes are 1.5" I want 3/4" slip bulkheads x 4 I was going to order some loc-line (3/4) hose, nozzles for them, and NPT connectors for my outputs. It was suggested to have 3/4" returns, and 1" drains. I don't see how that is possible w/out drilling a wider hole for a bigger bulkhead? So would 3/4 drains and returns be a huge problem? Other than that, I probably need about 20ft of PVC, whatever I need to lock pieces together and a couple of 90 degree pieces for bends. It's not that easy, is it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
howaboutme July 29, 2013 Share July 29, 2013 I know, Isaac. I was just teasing you! I just got some fittings/bulkheads for my upcoming RODI/Saltwater mixing station from BRS and am happy with them. It's sch80, which is not needed, but w/ the group buy discount, it was a pretty good deal. I tried searching at BRK but they didn't have what I needed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlanM July 29, 2013 Share July 29, 2013 Other than that, I probably need about 20ft of PVC, whatever I need to lock pieces together and a couple of 90 degree pieces for bends. It's not that easy, is it? It's that easy after your 5th trip to Home Depot, heh. Once you get it all in one spot you should be able to assemble pretty fast. BTW, don't use a hacksaw to cut the PVC. Get one of those big ratcheting plastic pipe shears. They're like $10 at Lowes/HD and totally worth it. You can just shear right through both fittings and pipe without making a mess and get clean and straight edges. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkiboy July 29, 2013 Share July 29, 2013 That would be super helpful. I'm fairly sure I know exactly what I need in order to make it happen, I have just never worked with PVC before, and the sizes are slightly confusing. I know that since my holes are 1.5" I want 3/4" slip bulkheads x 4 I was going to order some loc-line (3/4) hose, nozzles for them, and NPT connectors for my outputs. It was suggested to have 3/4" returns, and 1" drains. I don't see how that is possible w/out drilling a wider hole for a bigger bulkhead? So would 3/4 drains and returns be a huge problem? Other than that, I probably need about 20ft of PVC, whatever I need to lock pieces together and a couple of 90 degree pieces for bends. It's not that easy, is it? your last question was pretty funny after that whole reply, haha. are they really exactly 1.5" (37mm) not possibly 42mm? or did you measure for underneath with certainty? only reason i ask is because if we can go with sch80 bulkheads, it would be nice which require a 42mm drill bit. i wouldn't suggest redrilling a drilled hole. if going to a larger drain than they are suggesting using a reducer at the bulkhead 1" to 3/4". if space allows and that's what you want to do, we can but i think you mentioned you wanted to run dursos, no? if going with the same set up left and right that's really your only choice if not taking the returns over the tank. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkiboy July 29, 2013 Share July 29, 2013 BTW, don't use a hacksaw to cut the PVC. Get one of those big ratcheting plastic pipe shears. They're like $10 at Lowes/HD and totally worth it. You can just shear right through both fittings and pipe without making a mess and get clean and straight edges. not only does it look worse with a hacksaw but it takes longer...i don't know why more folks don't use the ratcheting pipe cutters. +1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YHSublime July 29, 2013 Author Share July 29, 2013 (edited) your last question was pretty funny after that whole reply, haha. are they really exactly 1.5" (37mm) not possibly 42mm? or did you measure for underneath with certainty? only reason i ask is because if we can go with sch80 bulkheads, it would be nice which require a 42mm drill bit. i wouldn't suggest redrilling a drilled hole. if going to a larger drain than they are suggesting using a reducer at the bulkhead 1" to 3/4". if space allows and that's what you want to do, we can but i think you mentioned you wanted to run dursos, no? if going with the same set up left and right that's really your only choice if not taking the returns over the tank. I crawled underneath Saturday and it was an inch and a half according to my tape measurer. I don’t think I have the option of using a reducer, I can’t fit a 1” bulkhead without widening the hole, correct? I would rather keep the returns in without running them over the back. I really want to run durso, but I have no experience with the Heribie. The reason I chose durso is because it’s what I have on the 57, and it’s super quiet. Most WAMAS members who have come by the house always comment on how quiet my setup is. not only does it look worse with a hacksaw but it takes longer...i don't know why more folks don't use the ratcheting pipe cutters. +1 I will invest in one for sure. Here is a sticky note of what I'm picturing. Left side is the return, right side is the drain, as to not clutter the two together in one image. Edited July 29, 2013 by YHSublime Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkiboy July 29, 2013 Share July 29, 2013 I crawled underneath Saturday and it was an inch and a half according to my tape measurer. I don’t think I have the option of using a reducer, I can’t fit a 1” bulkhead without widening the hole, correct? I would rather keep the returns in without running them over the back. I really want to run durso, but I have no experience with the Heribie. The reason I chose durso is because it’s what I have on the 57, and it’s super quiet. Most WAMAS members who have come by the house always comment on how quiet my setup is. you would use a 3/4" bulkhead but have a 1" to 3/4" reducer onto the flange side inside the overflow and 1" durso within the overflow if that is what you wanted to do. you wouldn't be widening the hole. if you want to avoid running returns over the back you can always drill the back pane for returns. or you can keep things simple and use the system as it was designed like you have in your diagram. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marc Weaver July 29, 2013 Share July 29, 2013 Just a quick note - you may want a ball valve on each return line after the split to balance flow to each side of the tank. In your drawing, your right side will flow faster due to less head pressure on the pump. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlanM July 29, 2013 Share July 29, 2013 Seems like it will work. Herbie would just be taking the right side drain box and making one pipe go only 1/4 of the way up the internal box with an open top and the other pipe top go up above the teeth as a dry emergency, no elbows, Tee's or anything needed. Then you have the drain pipes going down to just barely below the water line (so air doesn't come back up them) and put a ball valve (or ideally a gate valve because it can be adjusted easier) under the tank in the stand on the "low" drain pipe, close it down, and fire up the return pump. The level will increase and start draining out the emergency and then you should start opening the valve on the "low" pipe. Eventually you will get to a level where it siphons out and is totally silent (because there's no air bubbles in the pipe) with the water level in the box kind of halfway between the top of that pipe and the top of the box. Over time you might need to open your gate valve if it gets clogged with doodoo, but you'll know because the water level in the box will move around a bit. If it ever clogs totally you'll hear it easily because the dry emergency will be way louder than the silent main drain. One thing about that left drain box. If you're really going to use it entirely as a return you should put an outlet inside the box to keep the water stirred up in there and coming out the overflow or something. Otherwise it's just a stagnant body of water in the tank that will get yucky after a while. Ooh, or seal it totally and put the dry side of an MP40 in it. 8) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marc Weaver July 29, 2013 Share July 29, 2013 I always used this chart to estimate flow in pipes. http://flexpvc.com/WaterFlowBasedOnPipeSize.shtml I think you will be OK with 3/4" drains. You may want to expand to 1" right below the bulkheads though and definitelty make a 1 or 1.25" durso. On my 220, I ran 1" drain lines and at one time had 2 mag 12's, one for each side. After head loss I was probably getting close to 800GPH on each side, and according to the chart 1" is 960 GPH (times two=1920) and the drains could have handled more. The chart says 3/4" can handle 660GPH and since you will have two that's 1320 GPH. At 6X turnover rate, you're probably getting close to 1000GPH, which should be fine. You can always put a ball valve right at the output of the return pump to control flow it it's too much. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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