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best cabinet doors/wood for stand


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(edited)

I keep debating in my mind how to skin my new metal stand. I want the back to be completely open.

 

I am thinking the sides can be a flat piece of 5/8" wood (23"x35") and the front can be two cabinet doors (28"x35"/ea).

 

What is the best type of wood to use if I plan on painting it, and where is the best place to get it. I want it glossy black.

 

The same with cabinet doors. WHERE SHOULD I GET THEM, and what material?

 

Anyone want to help me out with this? It won't be for another month or so... I want it to look professional (and modern) None of that decorative trim. I want all straight edges etc...

Edited by BowieReefer84
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I think these are the best, Mike:

 

cutcaster-photo-100151148-Pink-Door.jpg

 

:)

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(edited)

My build is a bit like yours. You may want to check out my thread: LINK

 

I too wanted black, modern looking, straight edges, nice doors. My back is completely open.

 

What I did was measure everything, bought one really nice sheet of plywood from Lowe's, and had them cut it into "a bunch" of pieces.

 

 

If you look at the second to last pic on this page, you'll see what it ended up looking like:

LINK

 

I used Black Oil Based Rust-Oleum paint. Semi-Gloss is shiny enough. Could have used gloss. Very happy with how the paint has held up.

 

I scuffed up the doors before I painted them, because they had a clear finish.

 

In my case, to buy the doors, I found a "scratch and dent" vanity at Home Depot with perfect doors, marked down to about nothing, and bought it just for the doors. I disassembled it in the parking lot and took all the pieces home. I know you can buy doors online as well. Those doors are oak. Very solid, came with hinges attached. Made it easy.

 

As you can see from the thread, I used the scrap pieces of the plywood to build up an outer rim to give depth. Still straight lines, I think it looks nice.

Edited by extreme_tooth_decay
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ive used some 3 ply sheets from HD with i think its a road oak skin on it, they arent too expensive but look really nice when finished....they are light which is good for magnets and if you make a quick little frame for the back of them you can make them very sturdy...this is/was the plan for the 120 that never got completed. hopefully ill be able to give it a try for the next tank.

 

it can be stained to look very nice, ive been using a wood stain but if you want it black there is always a black stain...if you dont want wood grain dont worry about getting the nice looking ply..paint will cover it anyways and save you a few bucks.

 

otherwise i would just see anything much thicker getting too heavy for magnets, and anything thinner warping very easily

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It would be more expensive, but probably a better selection, if you look for a "You Finish" furniture store. Don't know any big names in this area, but an example is Howard Hill in NJ. Everything is made of solid wood and is ready to finish. It can get pricey, but you can most likely find exactly what you want.

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It would be more expensive, but probably a better selection, if you look for a "You Finish" furniture store. Don't know any big names in this area, but an example is Howard Hill in NJ. Everything is made of solid wood and is ready to finish. It can get pricey, but you can most likely find exactly what you want.

 

I have been happy with Saah for unfinished furniture: LINK

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We're hoping to get a quote from Bob M. (YbeNormal) who built stands for several members, most recently Roni's. His work is awesome.

 

So glad you started this post, great responses!

 

Maureen

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I don't know why I even post on RC. I asked this over there thinking there would be more input from a wider range of folks. I got nothing... I post here, and get the most useful information!

 

(other than Chad acting in for Ryan today)

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(edited)

I build a lot of cabinets and your best bet is to buy poplar. Easier than oak or maple to work with and paints up nice (less expensive also) If you give me sizes of your openings I can give you a good deal on any size door you want.

Edited by corsi1330
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I built a storage for my chiller and Ca reactor and when i did this i just went and bought a hard wood front kitchen cabinet from homedepot and destroyed all the back and just used the faceframe and doors. It was a quick easy way to get professional looking doors and face frame since I did not own a table saw and router when i was building the set. Quick easy and then you get hardwood frame pre made. And lots of ones to choose from. Another option to save more money is to go looking at one of the salvage stores and buy a used cabinet. Since you are going to paint it and seal it anyway it does not matter if it is used and discollored.

 

Just my 2 cents

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We're hoping to get a quote from Bob M. (YbeNormal) who built stands for several members, most recently Roni's. His work is awesome.

 

So glad you started this post, great responses!

 

Maureen

 

Bob does do great work. He was going to skin my stand for me, but I haven't been able to reach him for months.

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(edited)

The habitat for humanity restore is a great place if your looking for an old cabinet to break down for the faceplate and doors, in fact you can probably find just doors pretty cheap too.

 

 

Frederick

Frederick County ReStore, HFH of

622 North Mkt St

Frederick, MD 21701Phone: (301) 662-2988

restore@frederickhabitat.org

Gaithersburg

Montgomery Co, Maryland ReStore, HFH of

9100 Gaither Rd

Gaithersburg, MD 20877Phone: (301) 947-3304

restore@habitat-mc.org

Hagerstown

Washington County HFH ReStore

100 Charles St

Hagerstown, MD 21742Phone: (301) 745-5457

restorehagmd@att.net

 

Alexandria

Northern Virginia Restore-Alexandria, HF

7770-G Richmond Highway

Alexandria, VA 22306 Phone: (703) 360-6700

manager@restorenova.org

Chantilly

Northern Virginia ReStore-Chantilly, HFH of

4262 Entre Ct

Chantilly, VA 20151 Phone: 703-953-37-47

info@restorenova.org

 

 

Manassas

Prince Wm Co-Man & Man ReStore, HFH of

9506 Ctr St

Manassas, VA 20110 Phone: (703) 369-6145

ReStore@habitatpwc.org

Edited by bill stine
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