TonyInVa June 8, 2012 June 8, 2012 I bought a check valve that doesn't seem to work. I have asked around and have not found anyone who has had one that completely stopped the water flow. If you have please let me know where you got it from.
rocko918 June 8, 2012 June 8, 2012 also depends on the type. did you get the spring loaded one or the flapper style.
icecool2 June 8, 2012 June 8, 2012 These are expensive, but they are reliable and easy to clean: http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/store/1-5-george-fisher-wye-check-valve-swiss-made.html
extreme_tooth_decay June 8, 2012 June 8, 2012 I have been using the PVC check valve from Lowe's. 1/2" I think. It is a spring type. I check it periodically. Still works after years. Does rob some flow, but I took that into account.
hypertech June 8, 2012 June 8, 2012 These are expensive, but they are reliable and easy to clean: http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/store/1-5-george-fisher-wye-check-valve-swiss-made.html That's a pretty expensive solution when an appropriately placed hole in the return line will do the same thing and be more reliable.
Ryan S June 8, 2012 June 8, 2012 (edited) That's a pretty expensive solution when an appropriately placed hole in the return line will do the same thing and be more reliable. nothing wrong with having multiple fail safes. the more the better. Edited June 8, 2012 by Ryan S
icecool2 June 8, 2012 June 8, 2012 That's a pretty expensive solution when an appropriately placed hole in the return line will do the same thing and be more reliable. The OP asked for a reliable check valve, not a reliable solution to flow back I personally never would rely on a mechanical device that has to moving parts to actually prevent a flood. An appropriately sized sump and a well designed return setup will serve you best.
wogga June 8, 2012 June 8, 2012 That's a pretty expensive solution when an appropriately placed hole in the return line will do the same thing and be more reliable. I'm not sure I understand what you mean. Can you be more precise?
icecool2 June 8, 2012 June 8, 2012 The assumption I believe hypertech is making is that you need the check valve because your return line will pull a siphon. If you place a small-ish hole just below the surface of the water, it breaks the siphon before you drain to the tip of the return nozzle.
extreme_tooth_decay June 8, 2012 June 8, 2012 (edited) The assumption I believe hypertech is making is that you need the check valve because your return line will pull a siphon. If you place a small-ish hole just below the surface of the water, it breaks the siphon before you drain to the tip of the return nozzle. Unless a snail is parked on it, which he will be. And when you have 2 holes, you'll have 2 snails. The more redundancy, the better... Edited June 8, 2012 by extreme_tooth_decay
BowieReefer84 June 8, 2012 June 8, 2012 Unless a snail is parked on it, which he will be. And when you have 2 holes, you'll have 2 snails. The more redundancy, the better... Yea, I plan on getting one for my return along with the pinhole as mentioned above. What is $36 for a 3/4" one compared to potential damage? I guess it depends on how risk adverse a person is.
Ryan S June 8, 2012 June 8, 2012 1. I use a George Fisher Wye Check Valve that I clean regularly and hasn't failed yet; 2. I drilled 2 holes in the loc-line return which break the siphon pretty quickly during an outage; 3. I keep my sump water level low enough to handle an overflow should 1 and 2 fail. I prefer redundancy as well.
icecool2 June 8, 2012 June 8, 2012 1. I use a George Fisher Wye Check Valve that I clean regularly and hasn't failed yet; 2. I drilled 2 holes in the loc-line return which break the siphon pretty quickly during an outage; 3. I keep my sump water level low enough to handle an overflow should 1 and 2 fail. I prefer redundancy as well. That's probably about as safe as you can get.
BowieReefer84 June 8, 2012 June 8, 2012 1. I use a George Fisher Wye Check Valve that I clean regularly and hasn't failed yet; 2. I drilled 2 holes in the loc-line return which break the siphon pretty quickly during an outage; 3. I keep my sump water level low enough to handle an overflow should 1 and 2 fail. I prefer redundancy as well. THIS is what I plan as well. I don't see how you would have a failure with these 3 "safegaurds."
extreme_tooth_decay June 8, 2012 June 8, 2012 Yea, I plan on getting one for my return along with the pinhole as mentioned above. What is $36 for a 3/4" one compared to potential damage? I guess it depends on how risk adverse a person is. I agree, a simple part that "can" help is worth it. I think the one I bought at lowe's was about $10, but may be less reliable, not sure. Is still working for me...
icecool2 June 8, 2012 June 8, 2012 Less expensive than the Wye is a clear check valve. At least then you can see when it is getting fouled. In the end, I always would just assume the check valve will fail.
BowieReefer84 June 8, 2012 June 8, 2012 I agree, a simple part that "can" help is worth it. I think the one I bought at lowe's was about $10, but may be less reliable, not sure. Is still working for me... Do the ones at Lowes have metal in them? Either way, I'm sure the one you have is fine as well.
icecool2 June 8, 2012 June 8, 2012 Do the ones at Lowes have metal in them? Either way, I'm sure the one you have is fine as well. The spring loaded ones do.
hypertech June 8, 2012 June 8, 2012 Yea, I plan on getting one for my return along with the pinhole as mentioned above. What is $36 for a 3/4" one compared to potential damage? I guess it depends on how risk adverse a person is. Its $36 that you didn't really need to spend. If you extend that logic, what's another 50g capacity in the sump so teh whole display can drain? Its just silly. You have to draw the line somewhere. A simple hole drilled in teh right place will suit your needs. If you are so concerned about Murphy the snail, put it somewhere a snail can't get.
BowieReefer84 June 8, 2012 June 8, 2012 Its $36 that you didn't really need to spend. If you extend that logic, what's another 50g capacity in the sump so teh whole display can drain? Its just silly. You have to draw the line somewhere. A simple hole drilled in teh right place will suit your needs. If you are so concerned about Murphy the snail, put it somewhere a snail can't get. Yea, draw the line wherever you choose. I shall do the same. Thanks Also, snails can get EVERYWHERE!
hypertech June 8, 2012 June 8, 2012 No they can't. They can get into a lot of thiings, but they can't get everywhere. You can put mesh and covers on things to keep them out.
zygote2k June 8, 2012 June 8, 2012 No they can't. They can get into a lot of thiings, but they can't get everywhere. You can put mesh and covers on things to keep them out. As much as I'd like to believe this statement, it's false. I have made tight fitting lids to overflows to prevent snails from entering, but snail eggs and subsequent larvae are very tiny and they pass easily through a slot in an an overflow box. I had a snail get into one of the drain lines and live inside the pipe till it grew and fit perfectly in the 1" pipe and ultimately caused a flood. The pinhole anti-siphon break is not going to stop a sump from filling up when the power goes out entirely. The water still has to be low enoughfor the pinhole to become relevant. Maybe an inch below normal water level. If there is a check valve on the return line, it stops siphoning water almost immediately and the tank only drains to the lowest point of the drain lines. Professional aquatic systems don't use pinholes, they use multiple check valves and sump capacity to handle excess water if the check valve fails. This is the best way to skin this cat.
BowieReefer84 June 8, 2012 June 8, 2012 As much as I'd like to believe this statement, it's false. I have made tight fitting lids to overflows to prevent snails from entering, but snail eggs and subsequent larvae are very tiny and they pass easily through a slot in an an overflow box. I had a snail get into one of the drain lines and live inside the pipe till it grew and fit perfectly in the 1" pipe and ultimately caused a flood. The pinhole anti-siphon break is not going to stop a sump from filling up when the power goes out entirely. The water still has to be low enoughfor the pinhole to become relevant. Maybe an inch below normal water level. If there is a check valve on the return line, it stops siphoning water almost immediately and the tank only drains to the lowest point of the drain lines. Professional aquatic systems don't use pinholes, they use multiple check valves and sump capacity to handle excess water if the check valve fails. This is the best way to skin this cat. Can't believe it... Hold on... I AGREE WITH ROB.
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