hot to make reef ready plumbing quieter?

[goodreeef]

I bought a reef ready tank that came with the plumbing for the overflow, the supply had a anti-siphon hole drilled into the bottom of the elbow. It is ok when i can keep the water level in the overflow above the hole, but when it is below the hole the water shoots out and makes a lot of noise.(the oscillation makes it worse) I have a friend that has the same basic system , but without the hole(he just makes sure one of the nozzles is very close to if not above the water line in DT that way it breaks the siphon.

 

How can I solve this, I had to silicone the plumbling in my overflow to feel safe.

I have tried adjusting the valvle that controls the water returning to my sump(it works so-so) ?

 

eddie

[GraffitiSpotCorals]

Can you get a picture?

[goodreeef]

Can you get a picture?

 

I think i would have to show it too you ... a picture wont do it , I would be willing, I live in bristow?

[Jon Lazar]

The herbie and bean animal are two of the most popular silent overflow designs. Durso is good if you only have a single hole to work with.

[zygote2k]

the reason why it 'oscillates' is because the return pump puts out more than the drain can handle. Put a valve on the return pump and dial it back until there's no noise. they should be nearly silent.

[spankna]

<br />the reason why it 'oscillates' is because the return pump puts out more than the drain can handle. Put a valve on the return pump and dial it back until there's no noise. they should be nearly silent.<br />

<br /><br /><br />

 

+1. I run the setup zygote2k described. The valve is off a T connector over the return chamber wall. This method doesn't create head pressure on the pump.

[STEVE]

I think he is asking about the return to the tank on a RR 90 Gallon Marine tank. The return is 3/4 with a 90degree elbow. The problem is, it has a small hole on drilled on the bottom part of the 90 for the siphon to break, but water comes out of it and it's making a terrible noise....is that correct Eddie? All you need to do, is block that hole and adjust your return line so it breaks the siphon instead of relaying on the small hole....BUT GETTING TO IT SEEMS TO BE IMPOSSIBLE. Eddie, chime in if I'm wrong here.

[CaptainRon]

I relocated that siphon break hole in my system. I just stuck a chunk of epoxy puty in the hole to seal it up and then drilled a new hole in the lockline inside the tank. No more steady stream of water shooting inside the overflow.

[Steve175]

I relocated that siphon break hole in my system. I just stuck a chunk of epoxy puty in the hole to seal it up and then drilled a new hole in the lockline inside the tank. No more steady stream of water shooting inside the overflow.

 

+1. Epoxy hole and drill return just below water level. Periodically clean siphon break (or drill 2 or both) to make sure that it stays patent.

[goodreeef]

thanx for all the replies , I believe that i will try ron's solution of epoxy putty. My return pump is not strong enough for my overflow(I have to cut-back on the water entering the sump with a valve on the drain line.) so a valve on the return pump wont help me at least until i decide to replace the return pump with a more adequate one.

[STEVE]

I just thought of something...wrapping a rubberband abound that elbow a couple of times to seal it off, simple.

 

 

[goodreeef]

I just thought of something...wrapping a rubberband abound that elbow a couple of times to seal it off, simple.

 

 

 

 

 

now that may be the easiest yet, rubber-bands wont leach anything into the water , right?

[STEVE]

I used one for something for over 3 years, on my old tank....replaced it 4-5 times because they get dried out...I dont think they do.

[CaptainRon]

I'd recomend gettin.g that valve off of you're drain. A partially closed valve can make it too easy for something to get stuck in the line and cause an overflow.