Stand/Canopy Construction

[HowardofNOVA]

Folks,

I'm building a 2'x4' 90g stand this week.

I just posted this to CMAS DIY Section and someone requested idea's and he didn't seem to be getting anywhere fast, so thought I would do it here!

 

I planning on building my stand this week and possibly new canopy within about a month. Already have a temporary canopy and older stand, but looking to build one a bit higher.

 

QUESTION: What are MUST or WANTS that you would recommend for a stand?

Here are mine so far:

 

#1 GFCI on all electrical lines connected to tanks

#2 Structurally sound frame: Plan on using 2x6's for top/bottom frame with 3x4 studs for post,bolted together for future tear downs if moving and all screws for same reason.

Use either 3/8" plywood or design hardwood on sides, (2) 1x6 across both front/back corners as supports.

#3 Access is key, Will cut 1/2" hardwood to go across face and thinking about using spring loaded holders to attach entire front to stand. I've seen some use velcro, but wear's out after a while and ripping noise will get to me afte a while. Will connect 2 decorative knobs or handles for easy removal.

#4 Appearance, Will add decorative molding to corners and possibly picture frame molding to face piece for looks.

 

Now I'm putting the plumbing to go through wall to sump area on other side, so will only have tank, ballast and all lighting items on tank side of wall. Inside my Sump Room (closet) will be the sump/refugium, kalk reactor, skimmer, phosphate reactor, etc with ALL electrical plugs raised above all water items for safety.

Before Pictures: Tank in bedroom with "Sump Room" on opposite Side:

Tank on left with future sump room on right:

Howard

[flowerseller]

Man, what was the water temperature of the tank in the bottom picture shown covered in a tarp or sheet?

 

What does "Structurally sound", sound like anyway?

 

"Must" be level or at least really really close.

"Wants" 3 decorative knobs or handles for 50% more ease of removal than 2 provide.

"Wants" a fish motife beer bottle opener conviently mounted so as to access with ease.

"Wants" kinda like an explaination why you posted in CMAS DIY section first! - Howardofnova or is it more like howardofbaltimore?

Have you been sniffin 55 sheets of drywall again?

 

 

I got that big as s bright green elephant ear mushroom on save for you at Pauls. You want to split that flo green candy cane or that flo green and/or bright yellow millie?

I vote the yellow millie (but then again the green millie was schweet) since your getting the green ear.

 

LMK if you want to jig the stand on the shopsmith. From the looks of the pictures, you won't be ready to move the tank this weekend anyway.

[HowardofNOVA]

NOT SO FAST young grasshopper!

Lump on right side is a fan on Super High, actually worked out great!

 

CMAS? oooh ah BECAUSE the "c" came before the "w"??

 

Me no sniff drywall, last night me play in snow until 6am helping friend clear driveway....and parking lots..and hospital lots....banking lot, etc. MUST HAVE SLEEP!

 

Sounds good on the frags BTW!

 

Will give you a call probably tomorrow if your available to p/u wood and materials for the stand? Will drop off, just LMK when your done so I can pick it up? :P

[HowardofNOVA]

Update of before, future home of my tank:

future sump room:

Pre-moved tank:

Howard

 

Any suggestions?

[Guest clownfish4]

Howard, I am anxious to know how your stand turns out. If it doesn't break you may have to build my 72"x18" stand! :D

[flowerseller]

Howard,

grab both ankles!

 

[GaryL]

i used scuba raven's design to do my tank stand and canopy. it doesnt look anything like it but the frame is the same. the top of my tank is not waited down by a canopy it bolts to the sides of the stand, as id the tank is in a corner you cant see into the sides of it. ill have to look for the picks.

HTH Gary

 

just download the excel spreadsheet and plug in the demensions of your tank and it spitts out everything for you.

[GaryL]

ok found this pic

 

[HowardofNOVA]

I want to build a stand with no FRONT center brace for access. I heading over to HD now to get the base board and scare the HE#% out of myself for the finished boards!

I'll try to take pictures as I go along, But here is my game plan so far.

...............Front...........Back...........Sides

Base.......(1) 2"x4" .....(1) 2"x4" ....(2) 2"x4"

Top.........(1) 2"x4" .....(1) 2"x4" ....(2) 2"x4"

Supports.(4) 4"x4" post - Will use heavy screws for tie in's and metal brackets

Floor ......(1) 3/8"x2'x4' PT Plywood (attached with Deckmate Screws)

Sides......(2) 1/2" Oak Plywood

Face.......(1) Each side, 1"x6" Red Oak Board

..............(1) Center and front removal door: 1/2" Oak Plywood

...................-Add 2 Decorative handles for easy removal from metal clips

Corners...(4) Corner Molding Trim for design

Chip has convinced me to go with 2x4 vs. 2x6's, after looking at my current stand, I agree.

Howard

 

BTW, I'm now planning on moving the tank Sunday 12n 3Apr, any volunteers, LMK?

[HowardofNOVA]

Picked up 2x4's instead of 2x6's.

Figure if Rik Leishman huge tank is still standing with 2x4, what can happen to my 90g?

Howard

[GaryL]

mine is all 2x4 on a 72" 150g tank, just doubled up in the middle. let me know when you decide to move the tank, ill be out of town on the weekend of the 12th. Gary

[ErikS]

I wouldn't try to span the distance with a single 2x4, I think you'd get some deflection at that distance. Also, don't know if you've gotten all the material but 2 2x4 laminated together is far stronger than a 4x4....and...it will move far less (not that you'd need anything but 2x4s for the corners). For the front rail I'd definately use a pair of 2x4's, a ply sandwhich would be even better (if an open span is your goal).

[HowardofNOVA]

Drawing board, drawing board???

Has anyone taken a look at this website, pretty awesome idea's!

 

I'm looking at this option now:

http://www.aquariumsforyou.com/absoluteig/...1&box=&shownew=

I hope this link comes out ok?

 

I picked up Fir 2x4 and a piece of plywood for flooring, so the frame minus a couple more 2x4 for doubling support per your recommendations and that will be done. Now just trying to figure where I'll go for the exterior?

I always like the granite style and oak designs, so now down to between those 2.

Here is another option that I liked but being I'm a big oak fan, I might choose to do cabinet in a wood tone spray-on finish and use oak doors vs. black as in this picture: http://www.aquariumsforyou.com/absoluteig/...8&box=&shownew=

Howard

[ErikS]

That black one looks pretty nice. The only advice I can offer for finishing is to choose the paint/finish wisely :D On my first stand I used some of that spray on textured paint (supposed to look like rock or something) - the total price was over $150 for the paint! (and I had to go to every BORG within 20 miles to get enough cans). Each spray can cost about $8 & covered about 1sq ft :D :D Live & learn.

 

I've seen some nice faux finishes, can't help with ideas though (if it don't involve powertools I'm not much help).

 

Are you going with pre-made doors? If so just remember to check the BORG for standard sizes before finishing the outside (DAMHIKT).

[xeon]

I second the ply-sandwich approach mentioned by Erik to eliminate a center brace. My 75 is built in my wall with the opening on the rear bottom completely open. I have two 2x4's with a piece of plywood in the center nailed together. I'm assuming Erik and I are talking about the same thing. To use Gary's picture for reference the top-front 2x4 in my case is two 2x4's with 3/8" plywood in the middle.

 

I guess the finishing and aesthetics are a personal thing. I try to steer clear of the faux finishes, sponge painting and other wonderful things my wife just loves to try to get me into. If you are going with a stain, you're better off going with oak. IME, birch can be a little odd when staining and subsequently can look splotchy with mixed results. This isn't always the case though. On the other hand if you are painting, birch should be fine.

[Grav]

I made a stand for an acrylic 150 out of 2*4s, 2*6s, 1/4 inch oak ply, and 3/4 ply for the top.

 

super sexy!!!

 

I'll post pics some time.

[Jarosh]

While looking around for materials I went with 3/4" pine plywood for my stand. Material price didn't play much of factor as I was looking for more pattern than anything else. I went with a mid grade finished pine plywood due to the s light tiger pattern and just sanded the crap out of it. After which I stained it wtih an Oak stain. End result was light to mid colored oak appearance with almost tiger stripe effects in the wood grain, due to slight differences in the plywood and the originial pattern.

[ErikS]

I'm assuming Erik and I are talking about the same thing. To use Gary's picture for reference the top-front 2x4 in my case is two 2x4's with 3/8" plywood in the middle.

Yep, same-same. The home made "glue-lam" beam.

 

A tip for getting an even stain on materials like Birch ply is to use a gel stain OR apply a coat of sanding sealer prior to stain (light sand after the sealer). Shellac will also work. Basically you just want to seal up the easy soaking spots before applying a stain.

[HowardofNOVA]

I've picked up the Fir 2x4's for the framework with 1/2" plywood for the floor. Will use Deckmate Screws to put that together. HD only carries 1/4" ($23 per sheet) or 3/4" ($45.) Oak Plywood if I go that route and both see either over or under kill for what I want. (Sides and Face). I understand that other lumber stores in the area carry the 1/2" size (Around $36) which would work perfect for my needs. I plan on just using a Poly Clear Coat to bring out the natural grain's if I go the Oak route again. I'm leaning this way it seems with talk of $150 just for the spray on immitation rock look :o

So far I have about $50 in material cost, not including $234,123.02 tied into labor!

Howard

 

BTW, I was up to 4:30am this morning again trying to get the drywall done. Hopefully after this weekend, everything will be taped up by next weekend and I will be able to request help to move tank into new spot!

[ErikS]

If you find 1/2" harwood veneered ply let me know where, outside of a specialty wood shop (even then it's rare). I've never seen 1/2" in full sheets in the BORG or Lowes.

 

If you have a frame underneath there is no reason to use anything larger than 1/4" material for the sheathing. Nailed down the 1/4" will provided more than enough lateral support for the stand. The only "gotcha" will be the corners, you'll either have to miter them or cover then with some trim. The simplest way to cover the stand is to just glue & nail on pieces of 1/4" ply. Then drill a hole in one of the openings & insert router & flush trim bit, viola!! Instant door or access area.

 

Note: if you use 1/4" you will have to beef up the area underneath the hinge(s), give the screws something to grab onto. Simple as adding a bit of scrap wood to the back.

[Guest clownfish4]

I like this stand although I am not a big fan of the canopy.

 

http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.p...threadid=349560

[HowardofNOVA]

HD is about $23. for 1/4" and $44 for 3/4".

 

For 1/2":

Colonial Hardwoods Inc Springfield 703-451-9217 has it for $79.50! :o

Smoot $79.05

Dale Lumber in Leesburg $60.96 sheet 703-669-9000

Smittys of Alexandria 703-780-7800 is $58.75

Tart Lumber in Sterling 703-450-5880 $58.71

ABC Distributing in Arlington 703-979-1171 has 1/2" Red Oak for $53.50

and the Winner is:

Vienna Hardwoods 703-255-9663 for $50.20 sheet

 

Mike,

I like the design they did! I returned the 4x4 for Fir 2x4 for the base. Got 10 boards and will double board most of the frame. Plan on working on it this weekend. Vienna Hardwoods has the best price it seems on 1/2" Oak. Will pickup a sheet after vacation and finish out hopefully by the Lighting Get to together on the 2Apr.

Spent a bit of time looking at that guys post, had a huge algae problem, makes mine look small, that's for sure!

Howard

 

BTW, In case your wondering, I'm a Gov't Reseller aka "Professional Internet Shopper!" :P

[HowardofNOVA]

Chip and I finished up the base stand this past week. Solid as a rock. Build it out of 2x4 Fir Studs with double board thickness at top. Will post pictures shortly.

Base upside down:

Showing joints of base:

Picture of base bottom:

 

Future Canopy, I saw this on another website and thought of using glass for canopy door, but was worried about blinding anyone that was looking at the main tank, but like this idea:

Website: http://www.reefaquariumguide.com/photos/sh...&sort=1&thecat=

 

Future home of tank showing where overflows will go through wall to sump area:

 

Sump/Refugium, ready for rock rubble, noticed in rear, angled glass, this is where rock rubble will be for splash area for the 90g tanks (3) overflows to go into, skimmer exit pipe and future overflow for 30g frag tank.

Howard

[HowardofNOVA]

To continue this link on Stand Contruction:

Sump into "Sump Area"

Chip O'Skimmer doing it's job with gusto!

Temporary Canopy being placed

Tank Settling in place with EXCELLENT Landscaping by fellow WAMAS Architect Jacob!

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Tank Settled and waiting for Base unit to be completed and Canopy to be started!

Howard

[Guest alex wlazlak]

i like that, i am trying to save enough money to get a 75-90 gallon tank and get good stuff for it..and im going into 10th grade and im in wood shop :D and i think my project is going to build a stand for a new tank, but first i gotta decide on what size tank.but yeah that setup is nice.