zygote2k May 23, 2010 May 23, 2010 Ever since getting PAR38's, I've been experimenting with the making of a wall mount light fixture that projects over the tank. I could buy a ready made fixture that looks nicer, but... I work with a CNC cutter, so I cut out some 1/4" ABS to use as a base. I used ceramic sockets from HD at $6 each, 2 packs of lock washers/nuts @ $1.25 each, a roll of speaker wire @ $10, some nuts and bolts- $3, 2) pvc pipe brackets @ $3, 3/4" pvc conduit box @ $6, a 3/4" sweep @ $2, 3/4" pvc pipe $2, Decora switch and switch plate $6, lamp plug $2. Version 1 was made for 3) PAR38 bulbs and was somewhat crude. Version 2 is currently in use with 4) P38's and an Ecoxotic stunner strip. Version 3 will be similar to V2, but with a side and top cover to hide the majority of the wiring and sockets. The black wire will also be inside the tube. It will also use 1" pvc because 3/4" bows under the weight. Notice the 'safety' fish line attached to the ceiling. V2 doesn't need the safety line, but I sleep easier at night knowing it's attached. It does keep the fixture closer to level though.
Coral Hind May 23, 2010 May 23, 2010 It looks nice. Could you space the pars apart more so the are not blocking the LED strip? It looks like a good bit of the light is being lost.
zygote2k May 23, 2010 Author May 23, 2010 It looks nice. Could you space the pars apart more so the are not blocking the LED strip? It looks like a good bit of the light is being lost. The stunner strip doesn't have any optics so it spreads the light around almost too much. I thought the same as you did, but after running it, I realized that I might actually have to block more of the light on the sides and ends as it puts the light out into the room where it doesn't belong. where did you get the par38 bulbs? Nanotuner.com
truestelf May 23, 2010 May 23, 2010 looks very nice Rob. Good job as always and next time i have some money sitting around burning a hole in my pocket i may consider converting to LEDs and i'll let you know
Origami May 23, 2010 May 23, 2010 Ghetto nothing. That's a nice little fixture that you've assembled, Rob. I'm really happy to see that you've already put that ecoxotic LED actinic strip to work for you.
Coral Hind May 23, 2010 May 23, 2010 Rob, Could you make a skirt for the LED strip to keep the light from spilling out? I agree with Tom, nothing ghetto about it, you did a great job!
zygote2k May 24, 2010 Author May 24, 2010 I was thinking about using Gorilla Tape for a temporary skirt material. I use that stuff on an electric toothbrush underwater and it hasn't come off yet. I think it'll hold onto the plastic pretty well.
Noobalicious May 24, 2010 May 24, 2010 Rob, I went to the website and saw the par38s. They have 3 optics options, which one did you end up choosing(40-60-80)?
zygote2k May 24, 2010 Author May 24, 2010 I use 3) 40's and a 60. The 60 widens the light envelope cosiderably. I use 40's on all the maintenance tanks so far because they pack the most punch.
Chad May 24, 2010 May 24, 2010 I am not sure than anything done on a CNC machine qualifies as ghetto!! Frankenstein, maybe, ghetto, no. Nice work, Rob.
Noobalicious May 26, 2010 May 26, 2010 one last question(maybe ) do you think 5 of the par38s would be enough for a standard 75G tank?
zygote2k May 26, 2010 Author May 26, 2010 one last question(maybe ) do you think 5 of the par38s would be enough for a standard 75G tank? Yes- possibly only 4.
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now