Neusance algea

[steveoutlaw]

So, I started getting some neusance algea growing on the sandbet and on some of the rocks. Problem is, I don't know what's causing it. My parameters are:

 

Calcium - 380

Alk - 8.0

PH - 8.0

Nitrate - 0

Nitrate - 0

 

Here's the stuff I'm getting:

 

 

Any idea what could be causing it?

 

Thanks.

[BowieReefer84]

how old are your lights? how long do they run each day? how often do you do a water change?

 

I would do a decent size water change and leave the lights off for 24 hours.

 

I leave my lights off for 24 hours once a week or so.

Edited May 21, 2010 by BowieReefer84

[cabrego]

So, I started getting some neusance algea growing on the sandbet and on some of the rocks. Problem is, I don't know what's causing it. My parameters are:

 

Calcium - 380

Alk - 8.0

PH - 8.0

Nitrate - 0

Nitrate - 0

 

Here's the stuff I'm getting:

 

 

Any idea what could be causing it?

 

Thanks.

 

You have nitrates listed twice. Have you tested phosphates? Some of that looks like cyano, especially the first picture. Are you running a fuge? Have you tested magnesium? I know when my Mg is low i tend to get more algae for some reason.

[Chad]

Without knowing your specific setup (age, size, occupants, history, husbandry, etc. and I cannot see the pictures at the moment). IME, nuisance algae growth is always triggered by something which can be a change in the system or a buildup of something beyond a threshold. I would focus on what has changed in your system in thre previous three (aribtrary) months. Also, verify that your water source is adequate (extremely low TDS).

[Gatortailale]

I just linked article in the carbon thread that talks about organics in tanks that build up. Do you run carbon?

http://www.wamas.org/forums/topic/26697-carbon/page__pid__320690__st__0entry320690

 

Also, maybe your phosphates are elevated. +1 on the age of lights consideration too.

 

 

* Just cause I read the carbon article - I'm not claiming to now know it all on carbon use. Just trying to be helpful in providing information.

[Chad]

I can see the pics now and I agree that it looks like a type of cyano. Have you recently changed the bioload or feeding? If you have, it will usually pass, if not try upping flow. Sometimes it comes on when pump efficiency starts to go down because of buildups and whatnot that reduce total flow, when was the last tie you cleaned your power heads? Do you have a fuge? if so, are you seeing the algae in both places?

[gmubeach]

Cyno can always be caused by low flow or no flow .... other reasons vary.

[steveoutlaw]

Sorry, one of those is Nitrites. The MH was just replaced a month ago and the T5s are about a year old, but it was my understanding that T5 bulbs can last up to 18 months. I run the T5s 10 hours a day and the MH 6 hours per day. The current tank has been up and running for 8 months, but all of the rock and sand came from my old tank. I do 5g water changes 1-2 times per week. I'm not running carbon, but don't see why I should need to.....it's a simple mixed reef system with a meduim to small bioload. The tank:

 

60g cube

Euroreef RS 80 skimmer

yellow tang

pair of bangaii cardinals

pair of percula clowns

yellow head goby

tiger blenny

Mix of softies, lps and SPS.

 

Could it be the great stuff foam? I built an arch out of the great stuff foam and epoxied aragonite to it. I can see some spots where the aragonite is coming off.

 

Thanks for the insights.

[Chad]

Sorry, I am going to continue to poke and ask questions

 

I am going to say it could be the great stuff foam, but I doubt it, I think it is probably something else. If it comes down to having no other things to try, then perhaps, but I wouldnt jump there first.

 

What do you have in the way of some other equipment such as sump/fuge (if there is a fuge or other attached tank with a light, is the algae there too or is it isolated to the DT)?, powerheads/pumps (have you pulled out your powerheads/return pump and cleaned them thoroughly in the last 2-3 months)? When you replaced the MH bulb, did you go with a more natural color (sometimes a spectrum shift toward 6500K can cause an algae bloom)? CUC (sometimes CUC efforts do not keep up with the load if there is some initial die off when you add them early in the tanks life and dont keep up with their population)?

 

I hope this helps :D

[steveoutlaw]

It's got a 10g sump attached to the back of the tank, but no fuge/light so it's only occurring in the display tank. I have a Korallia 3 and a korallia 2 in the tank and anywhere I put the xenia it's getting blown around so I don't think it's a flow issue. All pumps are bathed in vinegar monthly. The MH is 14k and the T5s are all actinic. I feed every 3 days and the skimmer is overrated for this sized tank.

[cabrego]

It's got a 10g sump attached to the back of the tank, but no fuge/light so it's only occurring in the display tank. I have a Korallia 3 and a korallia 2 in the tank and anywhere I put the xenia it's getting blown around so I don't think it's a flow issue. All pumps are bathed in vinegar monthly. The MH is 14k and the T5s are all actinic. I feed every 3 days and the skimmer is overrated for this sized tank.

 

 

I recommend a dedicated fuge running at least 12 hours a day and determining if your phosphate levels are detectable to start. It is probably a good idea to test the phosphates of your fresh saltwater. I also recommend identifying the pest that you have encountered-does it blow off the sand and rocks easily with a turkey baster or power head?

 

I had a TERRIBLE case of cyano and it started with a little in the sand like that. After 4 months or so, all the rock, foam was, was covered. Luckily it stayed away from my corals. After various techniques to try to curb it, I realized it would take too long to go away. So I used chemiclean and that worked like a champ, I was very surprised.

[Chad]

I agree, if you cannot determine a cause, perhaps try a round of the chemiclean, it will knock it down. Although if there is an underlying cause that does not go away, it will likely return.

[rioreef]

On the length of time before changing the T5's, I thought 18 months too. Then I went to The_Grim_Reefer's web site (reefcentral T5 guru). Under the link to "T5 Basics" on the left side of the page he recommends that you only go 12 months and if you have high light requirement, drop that to 10 months. Also interesting note on where to cool the bulbs. Run a fan across the ends that have the labels printed on the lamp for optimal performance. Cooling the center of the bulb can have negative affects he says.

[Origami]

Steve, does it go away or recede at night like cyano often does? Is it a bacterial film that peels up easily and in one piece, or is it thin and fragile? How long has the Great Stuff foam been in the system? Any other changes in the immediate environment (like electric / plug-in air fresheners), recent rug cleaning, etc.?