Why can

[Incredible Corals]

So here

[wfoxfox]

"I" have used a product called Kick Ick that has been fine when I had a FOWLR setup. I have not used it with the, everything except a shark, reef I have now. I do not know if it would be hard on the corals........... but what to heck, if you want fish, load it up. It is a 13 to 15 days of dosing, etc.

[Coral Hind]

Ich is not easy to keep out of marine tanks. How did you treat the fish while in QT? There should not have been any ich after you returned the fish to the DT unless you didn't kill it all in QT. I would hold off on buying anymore fish until you try the QT cycle again. Treat the QT with something like API Super Ich Cure, possibly twice, then return them to the DT after 6 weeks. All new fish will need to be QT and treated. What SG was the QT tank at?

 

 

[Incredible Corals]

"I" have used a product called Kick Ick that has been fine when I had a FOWLR setup. I have not used it with the, everything except a shark, reef I have now. I do not know if it would be hard on the corals........... but what to heck, if you want fish, load it up. It is a 13 to 15 days of dosing, etc.

 

I have heard that kick ick does not work and can be risky with corals. I have never added chemicals to my tank besides supplements and don't really want to start now.

 

 

Ich is not easy to keep out of marine tanks. How did you treat the fish while in QT? There should not have been any ich after you returned the fish to the DT unless you didn't kill it all in QT. I would hold off on buying anymore fish until you try the QT cycle again. Treat the QT with something like API Super Ich Cure, possibly twice, then return them to the DT after 6 weeks. All new fish will need to be QT and treated. What SG was the QT tank at?

 

 

When my fish were in the QT they were treated with copper. All their spots were gone in a week and looked great with out any spots or rubbing for 5 weeks. I gave up on the QT process because you can add ich back in the DT with anything wet. So in order to really keep ich out of your DT you would need a QT setup for fish and QT tank for coral and inverts. Each QT would need to keep the occupants for 6-8 cycles. Waiting 6 weeks to add coral to tank just seems crazy to me. I don't have the space for all these tanks or time to take care of 3 tanks.

 

I'm thinking of just going with the hardiest fish out there and getting a bunch of them.

[angel not fish]

I do have a large experience on ICH the only product that worked for me is ICH ATTACK from kordon - aquaherbals.

ITS REEF SAFE. You can find everywhere even at Petco.

 

I was just like you, almost hopeless.

[nesvn]

I am experiencing ICH right now. I recommend the cheapest cleaner wrasse, cleaner shrimp and UV sterilizer for reef tanks. Copper and UV sterilizer for fish only tank.

 

and definitely no Kick Ich on on tank with invertebrates weak fish.

Edited April 14, 2010 by nesvn

[Coral Hind]

I'm thinking of just going with the hardiest fish out there and getting a bunch of them.

 

A very wise decision. Hippos are ich magnets IMO.

[Incredible Corals]

I do have a large experience on ICH the only product that worked for me is ICH ATTACK from kordon - aquaherbals. ITS REEF SAFE. You can find everywhere even at Petco. I was just like you, almost hopeless.

 

Hopeless is exactly how I'm feeling. Such a bummer to see your fish die one after another when you are "doing everything right".

 

I am experiencing ICH right now. I recommend the cheapest cleaner wrasse, cleaner shrimp and UV sterilizer for reef tanks. Copper and UV sterilizer for fish only tank.and definitely no Kick Ich on on tank with invertebrates weak fish.

 

I've found a lot of research that shows that cleaner wrasse and cleaner shrimp do not actually eat ich. They feed soley off of the dead skin. I also tired both in the past with no luck.

 

 

A very wise decision. Hippos are ich magnets IMO.

 

Which fish from your experience are the hardiest? I thought clowns were hardy and look at mine. They look like H-E-double hockey sticks.

[L8 2 RISE]

...mandarin's can't get ick.

[Chad]

I am really very sorry about your situation and experiences. All I can say is that perseverance and stubbornness will get you there in the end. Trust me when I say I understand and know exactly how you feel right now.

 

I have had some horrible bouts with ich, it feels hopeless and that no matter what you do, nothing will keep these beautiful creatures alive in your tank. I promise you, patience and perseverance will get you through.

 

Give you system 2-3 months with no changes, keep all newcomers in QT for 12 weeks, and you WILL make it through.

[dschflier]

What size tank do you have? I feel certain angels and tangs are more prone to get ich and if the tank is small I believe they stress that much easier and will have just that much more a propensity to get ich. Go slow and i would stay away from tangs and angels for a bit.

[zygote2k]

time heals all wounds- even Ick.

[Happyfeet]

Two things, Garlic soaked food and Cleaner Shrimp!

 

Had/have ich and I feed well and got a cleaner shrimp. Since then my Hippo slowly stopped scratching on rocks and only once did the white spots even show. Hopefully it stays that way /knock on wood.

[Incredible Corals]

The saga continues

[angel not fish]

I do have a large experience on ICH the only product that worked for me is ICH ATTACK from kordon - aquaherbals.

ITS REEF SAFE. You can find everywhere even at Petco.

 

I was just like you, almost hopeless.

 

When do you stop at petco, get NUTRAFIN MAX (food), when my fishes had ich, I gave this food. Maybe its a good one.

 

DONT FORGET TO GET ICH ATTACK

[Brian Ward]

I'm not seeing ich on that clown picture you posted. The spots (little bit of white between his eyes) are way too small. Are you sure it's ich and not velvet? Most healthy fish can actually fight off ich. Your description of the hippo being covered in only a day sounds too fast for ich. With velvet, once a fish has it, they're usually dead within 3-5 days. Ich can (and usually does) linger for weeks.

[Brian Ward]

Take a look here: http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2007/10/aafeature1/view and see if ich is the correct diagnosis.

 

Also look here for info about hyposalinity: http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2007/6/fish/view

 

Hypo treatment doesn't work on velvet - that parasite actually thrives in hypo. Most corals can live in as low as 1.023-1.022. I would definitely consider dropping your salinity slightly.

[davidm]

try not to get too discouraged - it happens to all of us at one time or another. To echo some points already brought up - what size is your tank? It's better to build up the fish load slowly, and even if they are small tangs need a lot of space. blue hippos are ick magnets, as are most tangs. whatever you do, take it slow. best of luck - David

Edited April 14, 2010 by davidm

[Chris-]

I would ask, exactly what corals and inverts do you have? That will give you an idea of what size QT tank you need for the corals. Since your down to a few fish, watch them. If they make it, your golden, if not then you have 2 fish left? I would break the DT all the way down to where there is only water in the tank. Transfer your pods, inverts, a nice big rock or two (bio filter for the fish and one for the frag tank) and corals to a second tank. Corals do not need a lot of attention or room, depending on what you have. Draint he DT and put some fresh water in there. Run the tank with three or four cups of bleach for an hour or so. Drain and dry everything out in the DT, EVERYTHING! Clorox bleach everything with a heavy solution (not to where it feels slippery on the fingers, thats too much) with the windows open now it is nice out. Let it all dry for a day or two and start over. You can put the main corals back in without anything else, minimal amount of rock. Get a small cycle going and let it sit for 3 months. Whatever is on your fish is/has grown to plague proportions in the tank. Waiting for all that stuff to die out can take a while. Cleaning the tank out and putting the corals back in takes out 90% of what nasty is living in there. Either that or let nature take its coarse, then, once the fish are gone, let the tank stay fallow for 3 months. Yes, 3 months!! Nothing worked in my DT until I drained it and started over. 6 weeks, hypo, 8 weeks fallow nothing. I did it twice! Not until I took out my 6" sandbed (in a 90), dried it all out I was rid of it. It really was not that bad, just leisure day to do it all. Now i have a happy tang that has never had a spot on him.

 

Its a pain, but, if you really want your tank, thats what you have to do. House may be a little cramped after, but, hey, you should have seen mine when I went through it. only thing you need to care for are the fish.

[Chris-]

Oh, and mandrins can "carry" the ick, it just does not seem to bother them.

[ctenophore]

Brian makes a good point. I don't see ich on the clownfish either. You might have something completely different. I know little about fish diseases so I won't offer any anecdotal advice, but I don't think bleaching your system is necessary either. If it were my tank, I'd focus on excellent water quality (you seem to be on the right track) and feeding generous portions of healthy food, preferably fresh seafood and veggies with HUFA additives. The fish will probably have their best chance of recovery in stable, ideal water conditions and diet. Make sure you have strong water flow and surface agitation/aeration, as high dissolved oxygen will help any fish that have parasites on their gills. Often, ich kills by infesting gills which are mostly blood vessels, causing suffocation.

[onux20]

If it is indeed ich, I started feeding garlic soaked pellets and have not seen a spot since. It seemed to 'cure' the spots at the time and i periodically feed to keep them gone.

 

I would start with the simpler stuff first. Water quality...when was the last time your refrac was calibrated? Changed your RO filters? Maybe try a different test brand to make sure the readings are accurate. I know your corals are fine, but it cant hurt to look at some of these smaller things that may be contributing to your fish losses.

 

 

Hang in there. Plus some people find growing coral more rewarding than an impressive fish collection. So there is your silver lining!

 

Keep at it.

Ron

[Chris-]

"but I don't think bleaching your system is necessary either. If it were my tank, I'd focus on excellent water quality (you seem to be on the right track) and feeding generous portions of healthy food,"

 

I dont understand? Why would you rather try to wish away the disease rather than to completely irradiate it once and for all? Lets say healthy feedings do knock it down. Guess what, it is still there, it will always be there! Then you go away on a trip, or power goes goes out, the fish get stressed and it starts all over again!? More dead fish, more trips to the store to buy more fish, something he said he was done doing!?

 

What I suggested is not more than a days work. Grab a friend, a cold beer and enjoy a Sat or Sunday joking around and a icky free DT at the end of the day.

 

MHO

[Chris-]

In the picture it looks like it is in the eyes also?

[Incredible Corals]

In the picture it looks like it is in the eyes also?

 

Yep, in all the fish they have it in the eyes as well as on the body.