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Best anemone for my false percula clows


Reefoholic

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Hey,

 

I am in search for a nice house for my two lovely False Perculas. I have been looking around to find a nice anemone but no luck so far. I already have a rock anemone in my 14 gal tank but the fish are not even remotely interested in it :wacko: . I was thinking of getting a bubble tip anemone (maybe this http://www.reefhotspot.com/store/product_i...oducts_id=5526) but I wanted to get opinions first.

 

I am asking for your expert advice since I still am a newbie in this field.

 

Thanks,

 

M.

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they wont touch a rock flower anenome. What kind of lights do you have over your tank. that is a factor in what you might be able to keep in there

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they wont touch a rock flower anenome. What kind of lights do you have over your tank. that is a factor in what you might be able to keep in there

 

I have the stock lighting:

 

1 Coralife 10,000K 24Watt Compact Fluorescent lamp

1 Coralife Actinic 24Watt Compact Fluorescent lamp

2

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you really can't keep anemone's under that lighting, if anything it would have to be a bubble tip anemone, but I don't think that would even do well...

 

+1, if you want to get an anemone, you will need to upgrade your lighting to at least T5. otherwise the anemone will just die after a short time.

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you really can't keep anemone's under that lighting, if anything it would have to be a bubble tip anemone, but I don't think that would even do well...

 

 

Well that sucks then. I had a long tentacle anemone before, it was very happy with the water and the lighting but started to roam around and touching other stuff so I had to lose it. Since I can't go for a lighting upgrade soon (financial reasons as all of you would understand) do you think I should try the bubble?

 

M.

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Well that sucks then. I had a long tentacle anemone before, it was very happy with the water and the lighting but started to roam around and touching other stuff so I had to lose it. Since I can't go for a lighting upgrade soon (financial reasons as all of you would understand) do you think I should try the bubble?

 

M.

 

What are the ways to upgrade my stock lighting without changing the top that came with my biocube? Or should I modify everything and put a new top? i was also thinking of getting a Sunpod Nano with MH as well. How well do you think that would do? I don't want to make fish soup either if Sunpod puts out a lot of heat. ideas?

 

Thanks for the answers guys.

 

M.

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i think you should try, many members including myself sell rbta's, unfortunately i have none at the moment.

 

in the past i was able to raise regular bta's under 55 watt pc. just my 2 cents.

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I don't know, I think with good water conditions and occasional feedings, a little bta might be ok. I might try a little bta with that lighting, keep an eye on it to make sure it didn't fade too much. If a rock anem is surviving fine, why can't a bta. Quarters are a little tight, but you can always trade out or slice the bta in half if it get too big.

 

Get cheap green bta from someone who has fragged. If you want to trade up later for a more colorful rose later if all goes well, so be it.

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(edited)
Here are some retrofit options that will let you keep your current hood:

 

http://www.nanotuners.com/product_info.php?products_id=361 (70W HQI MH)

 

http://www.nanotuners.com/product_info.php?products_id=346 (72W CF)

 

They're pricey, though.

 

Nanocustoms 3.24 for 14g Biocube (72 w)

 

what do you think this would provide? Any nicer corals that I can keep or a host bubble anemone for my Clownies?

Edited by Mehmet
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you really can't keep anemone's under that lighting, if anything it would have to be a bubble tip anemone, but I don't think that would even do well...

 

 

+1, if you want to get an anemone, you will need to upgrade your lighting to at least T5. otherwise the anemone will just die after a short time.

 

This is 100% misinformation. 48w of light on a small tank is plenty for an anemone. Anemones are not high light demand invertebrates- they don't come from the reef crests, but are more commonly found in lagoons, rocky shorelines, and deep water. Your #1 concern should be excellent water quality with low levels of nitrate. If you can achieve that, your anemone will do fine. If you go with a BTA, get one from Flowerseller since his do the best in most situations.

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I don't know, I think with good water conditions and occasional feedings, a little bta might be ok. I might try a little bta with that lighting, keep an eye on it to make sure it didn't fade too much. If a rock anem is surviving fine, why can't a bta. Quarters are a little tight, but you can always trade out or slice the bta in half if it get too big.

 

Get cheap green bta from someone who has fragged. If you want to trade up later for a more colorful rose later if all goes well, so be it.

 

btw the rock anemone is happier than ever. I feed him with some shrimp every week and he is almost 3" big. Has beautiful colors too, a neon green and snow white tentacles, but the Clowns won't even go near it. Apparently it won't host for any fish...

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This is 100% misinformation. 48w of light on a small tank is plenty for an anemone. Anemones are not high light demand invertebrates- they don't come from the reef crests, but are more commonly found in lagoons, rocky shorelines, and deep water. Your #1 concern should be excellent water quality with low levels of nitrate. If you can achieve that, your anemone will do fine. If you go with a BTA, get one from Flowerseller since his do the best in most situations.

 

thanks for the input. I read many things about anemones and some people say that they need a MH or equivalent whereas other people think that with the stable and excellent water quality they can be kept in any tank. My water quality is excellent so far. No Nitrates or Phosphates whatsoever. I use Chemi Pure Elite for that tho.

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This is 100% misinformation. 48w of light on a small tank is plenty for an anemone. Anemones are not high light demand invertebrates- they don't come from the reef crests, but are more commonly found in lagoons, rocky shorelines, and deep water. Your #1 concern should be excellent water quality with low levels of nitrate. If you can achieve that, your anemone will do fine. If you go with a BTA, get one from Flowerseller since his do the best in most situations.

 

this was just my experience. never had good luck with any anemone with cf lighting. thats the one thing in this hobby, somethings work for some people and not for others. maybe i was having issues that i did not know about. just let us know how it works out for you. would like to know..

 

thanks .

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this was just my experience. never had good luck with any anemone with cf lighting. thats the one thing in this hobby, somethings work for some people and not for others. maybe i was having issues that i did not know about. just let us know how it works out for you. would like to know..

 

thanks .

 

I will keep everyone updated. Thanks everyone for their replies tho. I feel exactly the same about "reef luck". Somethings work and some things don't work. I have been lucky so far tho. My bro is a marine biologist and he tells me that all the time! lol

 

M.

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If the clowns are tank raised, more than likely they will never host in an anemone.

 

They are wild and very young :)

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If the clowns are tank raised, more than likely they will never host in an anemone.
False.

 

Anemone and Clown selection, introduction, and the tank environment are all key in our captive spaces choosing to host/not host. Tank raised or wild caught is nearly a meaningless variable.

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False.

 

Anemone and Clown selection, introduction, and the tank environment are all key in our captive spaces choosing to host/not host. Tank raised or wild caught is nearly a meaningless variable.

 

What do you mean by introduction? The fishes are already in the tank. how should i introduce the anemone you think?

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They are wild and very young :)

Also, not a variable.

 

Clowns begin hosting right after meta stage, less then a half inch in nominal length.

 

Selecting a proper anemone, providing a proper environment, will result in them diving in almost immediately.

 

fwiw: Natural ocellaris hosting anemones are extremely difficult to maintain in captivity, best to start with BTAs and let them figure it out. Some creative decorating can assist in the process. Until such a time, they are fine without an anemone.

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Also, not a variable.

 

Clowns begin hosting right after meta stage, less then a half inch in nominal length.

 

Selecting a proper anemone, providing a proper environment, will result in them diving in almost immediately.

 

fwiw: Natural ocellaris hosting anemones are extremely difficult to maintain in captivity, best to start with BTAs and let them figure it out. Some creative decorating can assist in the process. Until such a time, they are fine without an anemone.

 

I understand. I was thinking of a nice, medium flow corner, not in the front but towards the back of the tank, shielded by the rock. Obviously the anemone will determine the spot as far as I know. OR is there any way I can make the anemone stay at the spot i want? I had bad experiences with a roaming anemone before.

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What do you mean by introduction? The fishes are already in the tank. how should i introduce the anemone you think?

Depends on the decor of the tank and what the clowns call home today. If they hang out by the power heads, filter intakes, etc., that can present a problem. Anemeones should be kept far away from such things, but new clowns seem to gravitate toward such locations. Cover the intakes, overflows, heaters, etc., or be prepared for bad news.

 

If they call a corner, cave or rock home, start by placing the anemone there on hard substrate, glass, clay flower pot, etc.

 

My preference is to establish the anemone(s) prior to introducing clowns, but with patience they will figure it out even if they have established prior hiding areas or alternative hosts.

 

Good luck.

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Depends on the decor of the tank and what the clowns call home today. If they hang out by the power heads, filter intakes, etc., that can present a problem. Anemeones should be kept far away from such things, but new clowns seem to gravitate toward such locations. Cover the intakes, overflows, heaters, etc., or be prepared for bad news.

 

If they call a corner, cave or rock home, start by placing the anemone there on hard substrate, glass, clay flower pot, etc.

 

My preference is to establish the anemone(s) prior to introducing clowns, but with patience they will figure it out even if they have established prior hiding areas or alternative hosts.

 

Good luck.

 

The clowns kinda call this one spot on the right side of the tank home. It is away from the powerhead but close to the bottom filter intake. I will try to figure out something. So there is no way of placing the anemone at the place I want?! I have read somewhere that if you place the anemone on the spot you want and wait for the settle a while and feed it, the anemone is more likely not to roam.

 

M.

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I understand. I was thinking of a nice, medium flow corner, not in the front but towards the back of the tank, shielded by the rock. Obviously the anemone will determine the spot as far as I know. OR is there any way I can make the anemone stay at the spot i want? I had bad experiences with a roaming anemone before.

A roaming anemone is an unhappy anemone.

 

A BTA will typically not release from hard substrate(Live Rock, glass, clay flower pots, etc) unless something is really wrong. I have yet to have them climb down a large column and cross sand while water conditions, lighting, predators, etc., were all in check.

 

Try a central column under your best lighting with a mix of flow options so the anemone can choose. It should stay on the column. I would also expect it to climb higher toward the lighting as it acclimates to the tank. Depending on the source of anemone, it may be bleached, adapted to more or less lighting, so plan on it moving around the column a bit.

 

I keep mine under 70wt halides, more to keep them in one place vs. the need for halides. They park right under the lighting while the outsides of the tank are essentially dark. A feature difficult to replicate with tubes of any sort.

 

Cheers.

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