Two problems during my leak and sump test

[queloque]

I'm using tap water during the water test so I will be emptying out the tank and sump.

 

1. You can see the picture with the sump and I have a mag 18 pump but the water remains low where my pump is.

Is this because the baffle is too high? What should I do/

 

 

 

2. I have one leak with the whole setup. under my left overflow you can see below my ball valve there is a leak. God this would suck if I have

to cut everything out and re-glue. Is there an easier way. Would some aquarium silicone be enough to block the leak?

 

 

[MKNTRAXX]

2) for the leak. just make sure everything is dry put some more glue over it and give it time to set up. It should wick up in enough to stop the leak. needs at least 20-30 minutes to cure.

 

when you assemble these fitting remember glue both sides, and as you put them together twist them slow and maybe ~ 1/2 a turn clockwise and then back.. helps make sure the glue is everywhere and you wont have this problem.

[L8 2 RISE]

For the water level, when using sumps with your tank, the location where your pump is is where the water level will rise and lower. If you have a sump, you will never see your display level or anything else change but the last section of the sump. So basically, you just need to add more water.

[Pat_13]

DON'T add more water, it will overflow when you turn the pump off or lose power.

 

The water that is displaced is what it takes to fill your pipes. If you are able, move the last baffle further away from the pump (to increase this chamber) or cut it lower.

 

This is also the chamber you will see lower as your water evaperates so if no ATO then you will need to account for it too.

[queloque]

DON'T add more water, it will overflow when you turn the pump off or lose power.

 

The water that is displaced is what it takes to fill your pipes. If you are able, move the last baffle further away from the pump (to increase this chamber) or cut it lower.

 

This is also the chamber you will see lower as your water evaperates so if no ATO then you will need to account for it too.

 

 

When I cut the power the water level rose to half the chamber where I put the blue tape where the pump is located. So could I add more water if the water rose only that much or will it raise the water level in the display tank?

Edited May 11, 2009 by queloque

[L8 2 RISE]

No, It will only raise the sump level. You have to be careful, as pat pointed out, you could overflow the sump. If the water level only goes up to the blue tape, you can add more water.

[Brian Ward]

No, It will only raise the sump level. You have to be careful, as pat pointed out, you could overflow the sump. If the water level only goes up to the blue tape, you can add more water.

 

Yes, you can add more water, just do it slowly and check how much higher it results in your sump being when you cut the power. I would recommend moving the last baffle back some, as well as reducing the height (by 1" or 2" as was mentioned by Pat_13. Your evaporation rate will affect the last chamber and you don't want to end up running the pump dry. The more water you can have available in that chamber, the better off you'll be.

 

One other observation - your return plumbing looks like it goes up pretty high and then comes back down to go through the wall. You're introducing unnecessary head pressure by doing that. Turn the sump around and cut your plumbing to go just over the side of the sump and through the wall.

[Nate]

Yes, you can add more water, just do it slowly and check how much higher it results in your sump being when you cut the power. I would recommend moving the last baffle back some, as well as reducing the height (by 1" or 2" as was mentioned by Pat_13. Your evaporation rate will affect the last chamber and you don't want to end up running the pump dry. The more water you can have available in that chamber, the better off you'll be.

 

One other observation - your return plumbing looks like it goes up pretty high and then comes back down to go through the wall. You're introducing unnecessary head pressure by doing that. Turn the sump around and cut your plumbing to go just over the side of the sump and through the wall.

 

Brian is right. Move the baffle back and cut it down some. The more water you have in the pump chamber, the longer you can go with out topping off. Trust me its sucks when you have to top off everyday. Brian is also right about the unnecessary head addition. I recommend using a flexible tube for the return.

[Brian Ward]

Brian is right. Move the baffle back and cut it down some. The more water you have in the pump chamber, the longer you can go with out topping off. Trust me its sucks when you have to top off everyday. Brian is also right about the unnecessary head addition. I recommend using a flexible tube for the return.

 

you still need to top off every day to maintain salinity, but it gives more room for error (in case you miss a day or two or go out of town or something) - and can keep you from having to top off several times a day

[rioreef]

When adding the additional water, do it when the power is off and put in the section where the pump is. Since you say the amount of flow into the sump when power is cut only affects this chamber (with the baffle in the current position and size). So if you add a few inches more of water at this time it should relate to an equal amount of water level height in this chamber when the pump is turned on.

 

Seems logical you could do this when the pump is on, but if for some reason it does not, you wont have to worry about having added too much water. Place it safe.

[queloque]

Thanks a lot guys.

 

I went to the glass company and they cut my baffle down 4 inches, so its 11 inches high on the return side. They cut it for Free!!.

 

So I will make the chamber wider which will cut my refugium down in size.

 

Do you guys think my skimmer chamber is too big? I was just thinking of removing all the baffles and making the skimmer chamber smaller just to fit the skimmer and have the refugium and return chamber larger.

 

I will also flip the sump around and pump the pump chamber closer to the wall.

 

 

Also any more suggestions on my leak problem under my left overflow where my ball valve is located?

Edited May 11, 2009 by queloque

[GaryL]

i don't think silicon will work so you may have to re-glue. you can try to dry it out and wick it in...but i've never tried that so i dunno if it will work either but its worth a try.

 

my question is about the check valve... alot of them have a metal spring in them which over time may go fizz with the salt water and also cause a little head pressure. there are clear pvc check vavles that are all rubber here at mcmaster-carr

that what i use. i use the clear in case something isnt right and i can see inside it to make sure there are no restrictions.

[Brian Ward]

i don't think silicon will work so you may have to re-glue. you can try to dry it out and wick it in...but i've never tried that so i dunno if it will work either but its worth a try.

 

my question is about the check valve... alot of them have a metal spring in them which over time may go fizz with the salt water and also cause a little head pressure. there are clear pvc check vavles that are all rubber here at mcmaster-carr

that what i use. i use the clear in case something isnt right and i can see inside it to make sure there are no restrictions.

 

FYI... if you're using a check valve to control water siphoning back into the sump, you should plan on this to fail. It's a mechanical part and everything mechanical will fail eventually. Murphy says it will happen at the most inopportune moment.

[GaryL]

i actually only have a check valve on my ato to prevent back siphoning, used it for the kalk reactor but was having issues so took it off line.

[dbartco]

I would actually raise the last baffle like an inch or so . You so a lot of work to remove bubbles, then have it all fall over a baffle before entering the pump.

[dbartco]

I would actually raise the last baffle like an inch or so . You do a lot of work to remove bubbles, then have it all fall over a baffle before entering the pump.

[Vader]

I did the whole baffle thing too with my sump, but between water changes and cleaning, it just became too much. I pulled out my baffles and replaced them with a plastic container. Since the skimmer is on one side and the return pump is on the other, I have no issues with micro bubbles, plus the flow through the fuge is very low, since the water is not dirrectly drawn from the container.