Question for NAGA and other Acrylic Owners

[OUsnakebyte]

What is the best method for cleaning the thick coraline from acrylic? I know, I know... it's best to not let it get too thick, but once it has... what's the best way to go about scraping it off? Most of the accumulation (problem areas) of coraline patches occurs along the gravel line and near the back wall. Acrylic is 1.5" thick.

 

I have the Kent acrylic scrapers (ranging in size from hand-held to 36"), and I have two options:

 

I can get in the tank and scrape at it, which I do about every three weeks or so.

 

I also have a big honkin' acrylic-safe magnet that I use daily or every other day to remove film algae. However, this is not strong enough to remove the harder coraline spots from outside the tank.

 

Basically, I am at the point that even when I am in the tank using the hand-held kent scraper, the coraline still is very stubborn to remove. Unfortunately, unlike with glass, I can't take a razor blade to it.

 

Any thoughts/suggestions? Is there some amazing power tool that I can use to easily remove this stuff without destroying the acrylic?

 

Cheers

Mike

Edited April 10, 2008 by OUsnakebyte

[ErikS]

Ain't NAGA..............but...........the method you mention is the only one I've found = a plastic scraper.

 

I did want to try one of the larger plastic paint scrapers from Home Depot (disposable) - seems like it should work............just didn't want to risk it. Being larger it should make the job go faster..........but the only way I've found to to scrape, even the 3M Dobie pad doesn't take the stubborn stuff off.

[OUsnakebyte]

Forgot to mention above that the acrylic is 1.5" thick.

 

even the 3M Dobie pad doesn't take the stubborn stuff off.

 

Yeah, I have several of those large "Doodle Bug" pads too - nuthin'.

[Carl]

I don't want to hijack this thread...but I do have a related question for NAGA.

 

How do you clean the built up Coralline algae on an empty tank? Would soaking it in vinegar ruin the acryllic? I could put the tank on it's side, and leave vinegar on it for an hour or two...???

 

btw - with my 60 gallon acryllic, I've noticed the plastic Kent scrapers designed for acryllic still scratch my tank. I end up sticking my whole arm in the tank and use old credit cards once/month. Probably not a feasible option for large or tall tanks.

 

-Carl

[flowerseller]

Sonya's Cc removes coraline witout scratching since the corners are worn down from going in and out of her purse so often.

Oddly, the CC bills have been lower too.

[Antiguan]

Sonya's Cc removes coraline witout scratching since the corners are worn down from going in and out of her purse so often.

Oddly, the CC bills have been lower too.

 

Most convincing reason yet to get acrylic.

[davelin315]

I have found that paint scrapers/drywall blades don't do the trick. They are typically not as smooth as they need to be and so don't do a good job on the acrylic. I am about to resort to using only the scraper as I had my cleaning magnet tonight pick up a tiny colonista snail... scratched the heck out of the front of the tank. Now I've got to see if I can reach in and buff the tank with my acrylic scratch removal kit...

[stevearlen]

We now use http://www.pentairaquatics.com/products/de...algae_pads.html (the white varity is for acrylic)

 

(Some time ago, we used a magfloat, http://www.magfloat.net/telas/pagina.php?id=5&idc=3, but a few bits of sand grit got stuck in the cleaner and scratched the tank.)

Edited April 11, 2008 by stevearlen

[CHUBAKAH]

We now use http://www.pentairaquatics.com/products/de...algae_pads.html (the white varity is for acrylic)

 

(Some time ago, we used a magfloat, http://www.magfloat.net/telas/pagina.php?id=5&idc=3, but a few bits of sand grit got stuck in the cleaner and scratched the tank.)

That is what I use as well.

[hbh]

Where in MD can those be found? I'm right in the thick of it too! My DH's CC didn't work and it didn't keep the $ down! LOL! Anyone want to trade CC's?

[NAGA]

What is the best method for cleaning the thick coraline from acrylic? I know, I know... it's best to not let it get too thick, but once it has... what's the best way to go about scraping it off? Most of the accumulation (problem areas) of coraline patches occurs along the gravel line and near the back wall. Acrylic is 1.5" thick.

 

I have the Kent acrylic scrapers (ranging in size from hand-held to 36"), and I have two options:

 

I can get in the tank and scrape at it, which I do about every three weeks or so.

 

I also have a big honkin' acrylic-safe magnet that I use daily or every other day to remove film algae. However, this is not strong enough to remove the harder coraline spots from outside the tank.

 

Basically, I am at the point that even when I am in the tank using the hand-held kent scraper, the coraline still is very stubborn to remove. Unfortunately, unlike with glass, I can't take a razor blade to it.

 

Any thoughts/suggestions? Is there some amazing power tool that I can use to easily remove this stuff without destroying the acrylic?

 

Cheers

Mike

 

Mike,

 

I have had to deal with the same problems lately with coralline on large tanks. When you have to deal with thicknesses of 1.25" on up the technics to get the algae off change a bit.

 

1.) You ABSOLUTLEY must have a powerful magnet. For the thickness you have of 1.5" the most powerful magnet made for that is one that Tunze makes. I forgot the whole model number but, I know it ends with .58. This magnet is good for acrylic up to 2".

 

2) The BIGGEST mistake people make when taking on a good peppering of coralline is that they will get it all in one session. What tends to happen is that one gets a good go at it and concentration lapses and you get a serious scratch. Mark off a section and take it on spending no more than 20min. at a time.

 

3) THE MOST IMPORTANT........................ Technic of moving the magnet should NOT be long strokes back and forth across the tank. Keep your movement to a small area (perhaps only moving 6" in either direction) this keeps any potential damage (scratching) confined to one small areal. What really helps though is if you take out the magnet after you have taken off some coralline and rinse out the pad so that the buildup of coralline chunks on the pad don't scratch the tank. This is really key, rinsing the pad often as you remove the coralline is HUGE. If you have a powerful magnet and you get those chunks that are removed from the surface stuck on the pad for long they will come back and bit you.

 

4) Now the part of geting along the gravel lines and the side corners of the front panel is the MOST DIFFICULT. Now on deep tanks in excess of 30" it's particularly hard because the scrapers we can get from our suppliers are not rigid enough to where we can get enough pressure (due to the handle flex) to remove that algae at the gravel line very easily. In addition the scraper blades themselves really arent suited for this but, they can be used. What I have found and it's a bit more pricey is to use a 1/2" stainless steel rod and modify the end to mate an attachment assembly to accomodate a scraper blade. This way you can put all kinds of pressure on that algae gravel line and it one stroke take off the algae. Now you might think with that pressure your going to scratch the tank. Scratching of the acrylic really occurs when you have to go over the same spot over and over again where you get some coralline to come off and when that gets between the blade and the tank it scratches. If the blade gets if off in one swoop (or at least a good chunk) you just need to make sure you clear the blade off before you re-apply pressure again.

 

hope that helps,

 

now if I can refine this a bit perhaps the moderators can pin it somewhere as it is a question that is asked often.

 

I'll get to Carls question in a bit..........gotta make a run somewhere.

 

Jeff

Edited April 12, 2008 by NAGA

[OUsnakebyte]

4) Now the part of geting along the gravel lines and the side corners of the front panel is the MOST DIFFICULT. Now on deep tanks in excess of 30" it's particularly hard because the scrapers we can get from our suppliers are not rigid enough to where we can get enough pressure (due to the handle flex) to remove that algae at the gravel line very easily. In addition the scraper blades themselves really arent suited for this but, they can be used. What I have found and it's a bit more pricey is to use a 1/2" stainless steel rod and modify the end to mate an attachment assembly to accomodate a scraper blade. This way you can put all kinds of pressure on that algae gravel line and it one stroke take off the algae. Now you might think with that pressure your going to scratch the tank. Scratching of the acrylic really occurs when you have to go over the same spot over and over again where you get some coralline to come off and when that gets between the blade and the tank it scratches. If the blade gets if off in one swoop (or at least a good chunk) you just need to make sure you clear the blade off before you re-apply pressure again.

 

Yup, these are my problem areas. I've never tried the steel rod before. I'll see what I can dig up around here.

 

It's amazing how stubborn this stuff is. Seriously - I get in the tank about every two to three weeks, and it seems like I remove nothing - even when I am right on top of it with the hand-held scraper. I've pretty much given up on the long-handled scrapers. Like you said, the bend in the handle pretty much negates any possible removal.

 

I'll look into the Tunze magnet. Any popular links for that?

 

EDIT - Is this it?

 

Cheers

Mike

Edited April 12, 2008 by OUsnakebyte

[NAGA]

this is it

 

Power Magnet 220.57

Power Magnet 220.57

(0220.570)

 

Glass thicknesses: 35 - max. 60 mm

Cleaning surface: 115 x 77 mm

with felt for acrylic panes

Height: inside 26 mm, outside 27 mm

Instructions for use

1: Deutsch, English, Francais (x0220.5788)

 

0220.570 532.35 USD

 

 

there is actually one that is stronger but, you don't need it. 60mm is plenty but, this baby has a steep price.........you get what you pay for though.

[OUsnakebyte]

this is it

 

Power Magnet 220.57

Power Magnet 220.57

(0220.570)

 

Glass thicknesses: 35 - max. 60 mm

Cleaning surface: 115 x 77 mm

with felt for acrylic panes

Height: inside 26 mm, outside 27 mm

Instructions for use

1: Deutsch, English, Francais (x0220.5788)

 

0220.570 532.35 USD

there is actually one that is stronger but, you don't need it. 60mm is plenty but, this baby has a steep price.........you get what you pay for though.

 

So, this magnet will remove those hard-to-remove coraline spots at the bottom of the tank?

[HowardofNOVA]

DUDE!!!

For $532.35 USD, you better want to have a cigarette after cleaning!!

 

Jeff,

Can you put a sheet of Starfire GLASS on the front of an Acrylic Tank???

[NAGA]

Yes it will................however I haven't seen it and if it's caked on there you will have to get it clean first and then the magnet will keep it clean. Shop around for that magnet as it's not too commonly purchased due to the high price. You will get what you pay for but, that Euro exchange rate against the dollar is a real rump buster.

[NAGA]

Howard,

 

I have been asked that question often. There are currently people that are experimenting with that but, Ihaven't heard any definite success stories that show it working for years. There are ever ongoing efforts to find adhesives to bond the two materials so that they can have the best of both worlds.

 

 

This I can tell you for certain, you will never achieve the strength that acrylic has when it's bonded to itself. However I think in the future there will be a reasonable alternative. If you ever hear of success stories that have glass and acrylic together let me know.

[CHUBAKAH]

Howard,

 

I have been asked that question often. There are currently people that are experimenting with that but, Ihaven't heard any definite success stories that show it working for years. There are ever ongoing efforts to find adhesives to bond the two materials so that they can have the best of both worlds.

This I can tell you for certain, you will never achieve the strength that acrylic has when it's bonded to itself. However I think in the future there will be a reasonable alternative. If you ever hear of success stories that have glass and acrylic together let me know.

I'd think if you could put a dove tail joint or something similar at the edges it could work.

 

Guess the truth is, if everyone took care of their tanks like they should, it really wouldn't be an issue.

 

Acrylic rocks!

[Grav]

I use the yellow Kent SS METAL blades.

 

Yes, on acrylic.

 

Takes a lot of practice, and you need to prep the blade on some glass to be sure that it is smooth, and you need to switch them out pretty often, but YES you can use the metal blades on Acrylic without scratching. Some times it is the only realistic option.

 

Phil

[NAGA]

I definitely agree with Phil as i have done the same. Works well..................after practicing