Drilling Overflows

[discretekarma]

I have an Acrylic 100 gallon flat back hex tank that I want to set up. Currently it doesn't have any overflows and I would like to drill the tank. I don't need help with that since I think I have all the tools and skills required to drill acrylic. I really like to have the tank pretty close to the wall and wanted to see if there is any way to drill the overflows and returns under the tank. I'm pretty sure I've seen people with returns under the tank but I want some more details like how many and what size and also want to know about drilling the overflows in the bottom. Any help will be greatly appreciated. I guess this could be in the DIY section but I really need an answer so I put it here to get more exposure. I am ready to go with this setup.

 

 

Edited November 11, 2007 by discretekarma

[bprinehart]

Nice tank! That's the same model I have, only mine is a wee bit smaller. Just make sure you keep the hole saw bit wet while you're drilling and you shouldn't have any problems. You can probably get some blue acrylic to solvent in for your overflow boxes, unluess you don't mind seeing the tubes. I actually did mine in the side of the tank, but acrylic is so easy to work with you have multiple options.

[discretekarma]

Thanks.

 

So can I do the overflows on the bottom somehow?

[extreme_tooth_decay]

Thanks.

 

So can I do the overflows on the bottom somehow?

 

 

Yes. Ask davlin, he drilled an acrylic 75 on the bottom.

 

I dont see any problem drilling holes in the bottom, just ake sure the entire bottom is supported

since it's acrylic, and drill the holes all the way through the wood or whatever is supporting it.

 

You can see his pics in the floris thread. He just installed vertical stand pipes.

 

tim

Edited November 11, 2007 by extreme_tooth_decay

[discretekarma]

Great thanks for the info. I will contact Dave for more details.

 

Yes. Ask davlin, he drilled an acrylic 75 on the bottom.

 

I dont see any problem drilling holes in the bottom, just ake sure the entire bottom is supported

since it's acrylic, and drill the holes all the way through the wood or whatever is supporting it.

 

You can see his pics in the floris thread. He just installed vertical stand pipes.

 

tim

[NAGA]

I'll add my two cents worth with this;

 

1) you don't need to keep your hole saw/ drill bit wet while drilling the acrylic. That tank from the pic looks like only quarter inch material. That even with a dull hole saw will cut in about 15 seconds.

 

You can take this for what you might think it's worth but, for well over a decade of fabricating acrylic and other various plastics I have never used water to cool anything while drilling. The only real trouble you can get into is if the bit is dull and you have a weak drill. A good drill with at least 5 amps of power will do well even cutting through 1 1/4" material. The key is to keep the drill running fast. If you let is slow down too much when you get deeper into the material the heat causes it to gum up. water is not going to help you. On thicker stuff you just wait for 15 minutes for it to cool and then proceed again. If you have the abiltiy to come in from the other side as well that will do well for you. All of this really doesn't come into play until you reach thickness of 1/2" or more. I did seven holes for Yauger through 1/2" material in about 15 minutes and he can tell you what he saw but, it was pretty uneventful.

 

2) Whenever you start playing around with modifying tanks that have had water in them there are variables that can come into play that you really should be careful of. The big thing is the shape of the tank........what happens is the shape of the tank changes ever so much as to making the gluing of a straight edge to it very difficult. This particuarly applies to the back of the tank that might have bowed out some. In these cases again it is tough to bond something to it because the shape is tough to match when gluing a straight egde that you may have cut on a saw. You don't want a mediocre glue seam on something that is going to hold the water in your tank back from all coming out. So, what I would suggest is to build a 4 sided tower (blue or whatever color you like) and make that all bonded well as you will be dealing with all straight edge surfaces and then glue that to the bottom where if the tank was sitting on a solid decked stand the surface will still be flat. That way you only have that small footprint to glue well and not running a glue seam on the back edge where it may not be flat. If you going to do this use weldon 4 NOT 3 or 16!!!

 

 

In general it is dangerous to play around with stuff like this especially for larger tanks. 100gallons is no slouch and again just make sure of what you do is sound. I build acrlic whatever for 50+hours a week and despite all the glue I catch a buzz on everyday I still can keep a clear thought on putting two cents worth of advice from time to time.

 

HTH's

[davelin315]

I agree with Jeff/NAGA. Especially on the water. You don't need to add water, only for glass drilling is it necessary.

[jason the filter freak]

just how many tanks are you planning on there tiger?

[lanman]

You going to take the advice of a glue-sniffer?

 

bob

[NAGA]

[bprinehart]

Sorry wasn't trying to draw the wrath of the Acrylic gods. I just used water when I drilled mine as a just in case. Since I am not a professional, I would not know that it isn't necessary. Please disregard anything I said Scott. Listen to the pros.

 

I'll add my two cents worth with this;

 

1) you don't need to keep your hole saw/ drill bit wet while drilling the acrylic. That tank from the pic looks like only quarter inch material. That even with a dull hole saw will cut in about 15 seconds.

 

You can take this for what you might think it's worth but, for well over a decade of fabricating acrylic and other various plastics I have never used water to cool anything while drilling. The only real trouble you can get into is if the bit is dull and you have a weak drill. A good drill with at least 5 amps of power will do well even cutting through 1 1/4" material. The key is to keep the drill running fast. If you let is slow down too much when you get deeper into the material the heat causes it to gum up. water is not going to help you. On thicker stuff you just wait for 15 minutes for it to cool and then proceed again. If you have the abiltiy to come in from the other side as well that will do well for you. All of this really doesn't come into play until you reach thickness of 1/2" or more. I did seven holes for Yauger through 1/2" material in about 15 minutes and he can tell you what he saw but, it was pretty uneventful.

 

2) Whenever you start playing around with modifying tanks that have had water in them there are variables that can come into play that you really should be careful of. The big thing is the shape of the tank........what happens is the shape of the tank changes ever so much as to making the gluing of a straight edge to it very difficult. This particuarly applies to the back of the tank that might have bowed out some. In these cases again it is tough to bond something to it because the shape is tough to match when gluing a straight egde that you may have cut on a saw. You don't want a mediocre glue seam on something that is going to hold the water in your tank back from all coming out. So, what I would suggest is to build a 4 sided tower (blue or whatever color you like) and make that all bonded well as you will be dealing with all straight edge surfaces and then glue that to the bottom where if the tank was sitting on a solid decked stand the surface will still be flat. That way you only have that small footprint to glue well and not running a glue seam on the back edge where it may not be flat. If you going to do this use weldon 4 NOT 3 or 16!!!

In general it is dangerous to play around with stuff like this especially for larger tanks. 100gallons is no slouch and again just make sure of what you do is sound. I build acrlic whatever for 50+hours a week and despite all the glue I catch a buzz on everyday I still can keep a clear thought on putting two cents worth of advice from time to time.

 

HTH's

[davelin315]

Don't be ridiculous, your opinion counts and if it works, there's no problem with it. Your opinion is as good as anyone elses (mine included). Honestly, there's really no reason not to use water, it's just not needed if you control your drilling. That does not mean that it hinders the process.

[bprinehart]

Don't be ridiculous, your opinion counts and if it works, there's no problem with it. Your opinion is as good as anyone elses (mine included). Honestly, there's really no reason not to use water, it's just not needed if you control your drilling. That does not mean that it hinders the process.

 

I wasn't being ridiculous. If NAGA and yourself say it isn't necesary, then I believe it! I tend to take as many precautions as I can. Wasn't meaning my opinion was flawed.

[NAGA]

Whoah buddy,

 

no wrath here at all.................I'm sorry if you took it as such as I merely was just trying to put it out there that it wasn't needed is all. Not in any way try to throw a wrath down as I merely stated that it was not neccessary and that I have never done it myself.

 

Having said that though I have seen people do that though and wiht the heat that build up and the water is then introduced it cracks the hole saw. Not to say that would happen all the time or hardly ever.

 

 

My post went a little deeper into the topic only to help inform everyone what I have come across. I apologize again if any of my comments were taken offense to.

 

Jeff

[bprinehart]

None taken at all guys...TRUST ME!! I think you are reading more into than was there. I sincerely meant that Scott should take the advice of the professionals over me! That's all.

 

Whoah buddy,

 

no wrath here at all.................I'm sorry if you took it as such as I merely was just trying to put it out there that it wasn't needed is all. Not in any way try to throw a wrath down as I merely stated that it was not neccessary and that I have never done it myself.

 

Having said that though I have seen people do that though and wiht the heat that build up and the water is then introduced it cracks the hole saw. Not to say that would happen all the time or hardly ever.

My post went a little deeper into the topic only to help inform everyone what I have come across. I apologize again if any of my comments were taken offense to.

 

Jeff

[NAGA]