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Lanman 225-gallon tank build


lanman

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Back to the stand design, I'm a big fan of diagonal bracing. It's almost definitely overkill but on the other hand it's quick, it's easy, and it adds a ton of lateral stability -- just in case someone decides to go careening into the tank from the side. Like I said, probably not necessary at all, but it provides a lot of piece of mind for 20 minutes of work.

 

I think it's a good idea to glue the foam to the stand before putting the tank on it. Like you said, you will likely end up sliding the tank back and forth a bit to get it into just the right position, and you don't want the foam shifting with it.

 

Every time I look at that stand, I want some diagonal braces; they just cut into the space so much. I'm thinking of putting some on the end I will be closing permanently - now that I've decided on a sump. and maybe some small ones on the legs.

 

I taped the foam down... hope that works.

 

bob

 

Skip the halides. With 640 watts of T-5 you will never see them anyway. The individual reflectors that make T-5's so good means that they wash out shimmer lines of the halides so there is no real advantage of having them. I would probably get 3ea of those 36" fixtures though for 12 bulbs total and 960w.

 

If I want no MH - then I could just go with two 6-bulb fixtures. You sure the MH sparkle would be washed out? That's the reason I was going to add them - plus the fact I could get 20K bulbs - maybe broaden my spectrum a bit.

 

bob

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If I want no MH - then I could just go with two 6-bulb fixtures. You sure the MH sparkle would be washed out? That's the reason I was going to add them - plus the fact I could get 20K bulbs - maybe broaden my spectrum a bit.

 

bob

 

I used 50w of T-5 and 250w of halide on my 54 and the 1:5 watt ratio washed a lot of the shimmer out.

Now I use 200w of t-5 and 1200w of halide and the 1:6 ratio compliments the shimmer rather than washing it.

 

Your ratio of over 2:1 will make the shimmer totally non existent.

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Back to the stand design, I'm a big fan of diagonal bracing. It's almost definitely overkill but on the other hand it's quick, it's easy, and it adds a ton of lateral stability -- just in case someone decides to go careening into the tank from the side. Like I said, probably not necessary at all, but it provides a lot of piece of mind for 20 minutes of work.

 

I think it's a good idea to glue the foam to the stand before putting the tank on it. Like you said, you will likely end up sliding the tank back and forth a bit to get it into just the right position, and you don't want the foam shifting with it.

 

There... that any better??

 

IMG_1003.jpg

 

Having the right tools helps. I bought a mitre saw on the way home from work yesterday to cut the wood, and used my little drill press to put pilot holes in the braces.

 

P.S. - hoping to have enough people over on Thanksgiving to put the tank on the stand. :)

bob

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Nice work, Bob! That stand would hold an elephant!

Tracy

That would be satisfactory. My tank, full, will weigh 2400 pounds. Adult elephants weigh 5000 pounds and up! So it only needs to hold half an elephant.

 

bob

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There... that any better??

 

Having the right tools helps. I bought a mitre saw on the way home from work yesterday to cut the wood, and used my little drill press to put pilot holes in the braces.

 

LOL. Your skills far surpass my own, and it was probably fine before, but yeah . . . I like that better. :)

 

You won't regret the mitre saw purchase either.

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You won't regret the mitre saw purchase either.

That's for sure - will start on the cabinetry tomorrow. Might even get a chance to use my planer!

 

bob

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Planers are FUN! Planed all of these old boards down to use on the tank. Wood is at least 40 years old. Recycling at its best.

 

One door completed, and hung - but a little crooked. Might have to fix that.

 

IMG_1014.jpg

 

bob

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You know Bob - You could always just put the tank on the stand, put water in it, get it running and finish the stand later. That's the way I always did it.........no wonder I never finished any of my stands!! :biggrin:

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You know Bob - You could always just put the tank on the stand, put water in it, get it running and finish the stand later. That's the way I always did it.........no wonder I never finished any of my stands!! :biggrin:

I'm killing time until I can find 7 strong men and a girl to help put that tank on the stand. Plus - lights ordered, pumps ordered, sand ordered, sump ordered, skimmer ordered... wait wait wait. I'm hoping to find enough help on Thanksgiving.

 

Still shooting for mid-december to have water in.

 

And you DID finish a stand... for the corner tank. Of course - your wife standing over you with a big stick saying SAW! dammit SAW! probably helped...

 

bob

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And you DID finish a stand... for the corner tank. Of course - your wife standing over you with a big stick saying SAW! dammit SAW! probably helped...

 

bob

 

 

Oh, that's where you're wrong. I have all the boards cut for the cabinet doors but haven't put them together or stained them. I guess I'll just leave that for the next guy.

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Nice work.

 

You could remove those front lower corner braces for a bit cleaner access, with all the other braces they're not doing much (the upper bracing will prevent racking).

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i dig the viking helmet

 

For unknown reasons... that was a gift from my kids after I had my heart surgery. I think it had something to do with my playing Dark Age of Camelot.

 

bob

 

Nice work.

 

You could remove those front lower corner braces for a bit cleaner access, with all the other braces they're not doing much (the upper bracing will prevent racking).

 

If it ever becomes a problem, I probably will. But the left END of the cabinet is going to be completely open with a big door on it, so I can slide a sump in from the end. And on that end is where I plan to put the skimmer, CA reactor, Kalk reactor, etc. Cabinet has over 30" of height available underneath; I might even put an extra frag tank under there. I'd put a refugium in there, but I'm hoping to build one on TOP of the tank, so that the pods 'fall' into the tank, rather than get pumped. But I'm going to have to watch access; the Calfo overflow all across the back makes access to the back of the tank tough enough.

 

Thanks for the suggestion!

bob

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Okay ... what am I missing...

 

Tank, Stand - Check

 

New filters for my RO/DI, and a booster pump on the way.

 

Sump - being built

 

Skimmer - being built

 

CA reactor - Check

 

Kalk stirrer - being built

 

Pumps - on the way

 

Lights - ordered

 

WavySeas - on the way

 

Lots of SALT - purchased

 

Powerheads - (one Tunze and one Koralia already on-site to get started)

 

.............Other than plumbing/wiring - What am I overlooking/forgetting?? There's always something!

 

Thanks,

bob

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sounds like you've still got a lot ahead of you.

 

I really like the idea of having the end open. I'm going to keep it in mind for future reference.

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Front completed. Not yet stained or urethaned. I'm going to throw a little stain on the top and bottom boards - they came from HD instead of the shop.

 

IMG_1015.jpg

 

Here is a closer look at the wormy pine:

 

IMG_1016.jpg

 

bob

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You've been a busy bee. It really looks stunning, Bob! Don't over stain it or do anything weird....it looks beautiful as is. Can you get away with just some poly?

 

Tracy

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You've been a busy bee. It really looks stunning, Bob! Don't over stain it or do anything weird....it looks beautiful as is. Can you get away with just some poly?

 

Tracy

 

Only planning to throw some stain on the 'store-bought' boards I used at the top and bottom. The main boards will just get polyurethane.

 

bob

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