davelin315 October 21, 2007 Share October 21, 2007 Hey Bob, I didn't do a very good job of reading through your lighting choice but looked at the 150HQI and thought that this was a mistake. I would avoid those because you're not really adding much to your system. 150HQI is not much of a light and the coverage area from that type of bulb is not great, especially in those built in fixtures. You won't get much light spread from that and I think you'll be very disappointed (keep in mind I have only had one 150W fixture but it does not spread the light out very well). As far as the stand, sounds like you have some good advice out there. Just remember that a glass tank needs only to be supported on the edges so just make sure that it's even around that and the middle doesn't need anything (other than to help hold it still). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lanman October 21, 2007 Author Share October 21, 2007 Hey Bob, I didn't do a very good job of reading through your lighting choice but looked at the 150HQI and thought that this was a mistake. I would avoid those because you're not really adding much to your system. 150HQI is not much of a light and the coverage area from that type of bulb is not great, especially in those built in fixtures. You won't get much light spread from that and I think you'll be very disappointed (keep in mind I have only had one 150W fixture but it does not spread the light out very well). As far as the stand, sounds like you have some good advice out there. Just remember that a glass tank needs only to be supported on the edges so just make sure that it's even around that and the middle doesn't need anything (other than to help hold it still). Yeah - I know the 150's don't supply a lot of light (I need around 1,000 W equivalent of light for the tank) - they would just be for the MH 'sparkle' in the water. Most of the light would be provided by T5's. bob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sugar Magnolia October 21, 2007 Share October 21, 2007 So have you decided on your lighting configuration yet? Loved the shot of you inside the tank scraping off the coraline. I fillled my 30 cube up with water and vinegar and the craline just came right off. 225 gallons of water can really jack the water bill though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lanman October 21, 2007 Author Share October 21, 2007 So have you decided on your lighting configuration yet? Loved the shot of you inside the tank scraping off the coraline. I fillled my 30 cube up with water and vinegar and the craline just came right off. 225 gallons of water can really jack the water bill though. Yeah - I'm going to try splashing vinegar on it and see what happens. But the house is going to smell like a sauerkraut factory! bob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sugar Magnolia October 21, 2007 Share October 21, 2007 Sauerkraut is really good on hot dogs and brats. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lanman October 22, 2007 Author Share October 22, 2007 Sauerkraut is really good on hot dogs and brats. My kids are grown, and pretty well-behaved. But I know some neighborhood brats I might try it on. bob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lanman October 30, 2007 Author Share October 30, 2007 Next hurdle... I am going to need more water. I have a well; there is a Flotrol tank, and it limits my water pressure pretty good. The water is cold, and clear - and I need better efficiency! Someone said they had a 'pre-pump' to increase pressure going into the RO/DI filter. Can someone describe this setup for me? What kind of pump? Plumbing? Thanks, bob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davelin315 October 31, 2007 Share October 31, 2007 Hey Bob, it's a booster pump. It's basically just a small pump that increases the water pressure. They run anywhere from around $50-$150 depending on the brand. I had one donated to me at Floris by a member last year. If your timing is right, I can lend you the whole system, but I think that well water may really tax the membrane (it's already pretty shot to begin with). I'm guessing that you could achieve the same thing with just about any pump that is pressure rated, but again, these are designed specifically to boost the pressure just enough. You really only need it above 40PSI to actually get water out, but there are a lot of systems that don't reach that level on their own unless they have a good pressure rated pump (I'm talking about private systems rather than city supplied water). If you have need, I also have a 125 gallon container that will fit in the back of a truck that you can borrow to fill up somewhere. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lanman October 31, 2007 Author Share October 31, 2007 Hey Bob, it's a booster pump. It's basically just a small pump that increases the water pressure. They run anywhere from around $50-$150 depending on the brand. I had one donated to me at Floris by a member last year. If your timing is right, I can lend you the whole system, but I think that well water may really tax the membrane (it's already pretty shot to begin with). I'm guessing that you could achieve the same thing with just about any pump that is pressure rated, but again, these are designed specifically to boost the pressure just enough. You really only need it above 40PSI to actually get water out, but there are a lot of systems that don't reach that level on their own unless they have a good pressure rated pump (I'm talking about private systems rather than city supplied water). If you have need, I also have a 125 gallon container that will fit in the back of a truck that you can borrow to fill up somewhere. Just needed a name... booster pump! airwaterice.com has one for a very good price, specifically designed for what I want it to do! First few I looked at were in the $400 range (choke!)... airwaterice has one for $129. Specifically for COLD water like I have; boosts it up to 80psi for the RO/DI filter! Thanks! bob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YBeNormal October 31, 2007 Share October 31, 2007 That's the one I have. Works great for me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lanman November 5, 2007 Author Share November 5, 2007 A hobby you can really get into! Think, eat, sleep aquariums!! Stand is slowly getting built. bob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zotzer November 5, 2007 Share November 5, 2007 ha ha ha ha ha ha!!! Is that what they call "sleepin' with da fishes"? Tracy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lanman November 7, 2007 Author Share November 7, 2007 Okay - I think I'm ready for some plywood on top. Any notable design flaws before I cut it? Thanks, bob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lanman November 11, 2007 Author Share November 11, 2007 I am going to be cutting the plywood and foam (sheet insulation) for the top of my stand in the next couple days. The stand is 3'x5' to match the tank. The plywood is going to be 4'x6' - to leave a ledge around the edge. The foam will go on top of that. Can I cut the foam right to the edge of the tank once I get the tank on it and situated? Also - should I use some contact cement or something between the foam and the plywood? Even if I bring the whole neighborhood to put that tank on the stand - I dont' think I want to be trying to make micro-adjustments to the foam if it slips around while we're trying to keep a 600-pound tank in the air. Thanks, bob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steveoutlaw November 11, 2007 Share November 11, 2007 I am going to be cutting the plywood and foam (sheet insulation) for the top of my stand in the next couple days. The stand is 3'x5' to match the tank. The plywood is going to be 4'x6' - to leave a ledge around the edge. The foam will go on top of that. Can I cut the foam right to the edge of the tank once I get the tank on it and situated? Also - should I use some contact cement or something between the foam and the plywood? Even if I bring the whole neighborhood to put that tank on the stand - I dont' think I want to be trying to make micro-adjustments to the foam if it slips around while we're trying to keep a 600-pound tank in the air. Thanks, bob Bob, Get the tank in place and then cut the foam around the tank trim. Make sure it's EXACTLY where you want it before you start adding water. You shouldn't have to use any sort of cement to keep the foam in place......the weight of the tank and water will make sure that thing ain't going anywhere! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lanman November 12, 2007 Author Share November 12, 2007 Bob, Get the tank in place and then cut the foam around the tank trim. Make sure it's EXACTLY where you want it before you start adding water. You shouldn't have to use any sort of cement to keep the foam in place......the weight of the tank and water will make sure that thing ain't going anywhere! I'm not worried about it moving AFTER the tank is on it - just while we're trying to get the tank in position. Today I'll put the 'floor' in for the sump to sit on; got some 1/4" ply for that. And some nails for my nailgun. And some polyurethane. bob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flowerseller November 12, 2007 Share November 12, 2007 Will that stand go thru the door of your work shop to the tank location? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lanman November 12, 2007 Author Share November 12, 2007 Will that stand go thru the door of your work shop to the tank location? Hmmm..... 2' wide doorways... 3' wide stand... NOPE! Fortunately for me - I'm assembling it in its final location - just cutting the pieces in the shop. Bottom plywooded, and urethaned: And the top sitting on it... Now I need to find two nice bulky neighbors to sit on the plywood while I see if it's level. Naturally it's bowed; and I don't want to screw it down and THEN find out I need shims. Also determined exact final location and cut the carpet around the stand. (SEE! There ARE advantages to not having to ask a spouse if it's okay to cut up the carpet! Not to worry - that carpet has been under as much as 4" of water in its lifetime. Like I told my kids - NEXT time it floods, it's going in the trash! Too much work cleaning it, disinfecting it, deodorizing it. I'll just get some nice throw rugs. That's two days work in one day - trying to speed it up a little so I can be ready for Steve's live rock and coral sooner! bob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lanman November 12, 2007 Author Share November 12, 2007 What do you think about these knotty/wormy pine boards for the cabinetry? I have a pile of them - cut by a friend's father on his own sawmill. They were used on the cabinets in his woodshop. What a shop it was - 40' by 80'. After he died, I was the only one interested - so I took most of the tools, and a lot of the wood out of the shop. I think my friend would be very excited to see these boards used this way. I can stain to closely match the old paneling on the walls. bob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lanman November 12, 2007 Author Share November 12, 2007 (edited) Okay - in hurry-up mode... Bemmer had 900W of MH lights, and 400 W of VHO actinics over her 240. I'm going to use T5's, mostly. Two 4-bulb fixtures (recommended by a well-known T5 guru on Reef Central) is only 640 watts. Adding a 2x150 MH in the middle, with a couple of actinics would add another 300 of sunlight, plus 160 of actinics - and I would use fewer actinics in my 4-light fixtures. That would give me about 800W of mixed mid-spectrum lights, and 300W actinics. Most of you that have 240's or 210's have 8' long tanks - but does that sound about like the same amount of lighting you have over your successful 240's ??? Johnny said he has 3 250 W ushios in full size lumenarcs, and 2 160w VHO actinics on his 210. Does the total amount of light I listed above seem about right? bob Edited November 12, 2007 by lanman Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zotzer November 12, 2007 Share November 12, 2007 Bob, How about bumping up to 5 or 6-lamp t5 fixtures, just to be safe? Was this the GrimReefer? (love that screenname!) Tracy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steveoutlaw November 12, 2007 Share November 12, 2007 Bob, I think you have a good lighting plan. Go with the VHO for actinics.........they look much better. Plus, you'll have the MH for the shimmer. If your second guessing yourself you could always go with 250w MH, but I think that what you're planning will be plenty. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lanman November 12, 2007 Author Share November 12, 2007 Bob, How about bumping up to 5 or 6-lamp t5 fixtures, just to be safe? Was this the GrimReefer? (love that screenname!) Tracy Yeah - the GrimReefer... I'll be following his general specifications for which types/colors bulbs. bob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dandy7200 November 13, 2007 Share November 13, 2007 Okay - in hurry-up mode... Bemmer had 900W of MH lights, and 400 W of VHO actinics over her 240. I'm going to use T5's, mostly. Two 4-bulb fixtures (recommended by a well-known T5 guru on Reef Central) is only 640 watts. Adding a 2x150 MH in the middle, with a couple of actinics would add another 300 of sunlight, plus 160 of actinics - and I would use fewer actinics in my 4-light fixtures. That would give me about 800W of mixed mid-spectrum lights, and 300W actinics. Most of you that have 240's or 210's have 8' long tanks - but does that sound about like the same amount of lighting you have over your successful 240's ??? Johnny said he has 3 250 W ushios in full size lumenarcs, and 2 160w VHO actinics on his 210. Does the total amount of light I listed above seem about right? bob Skip the halides. With 640 watts of T-5 you will never see them anyway. The individual reflectors that make T-5's so good means that they wash out shimmer lines of the halides so there is no real advantage of having them. I would probably get 3ea of those 36" fixtures though for 12 bulbs total and 960w. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rascal November 13, 2007 Share November 13, 2007 Back to the stand design, I'm a big fan of diagonal bracing. It's almost definitely overkill but on the other hand it's quick, it's easy, and it adds a ton of lateral stability -- just in case someone decides to go careening into the tank from the side. Like I said, probably not necessary at all, but it provides a lot of piece of mind for 20 minutes of work. I think it's a good idea to glue the foam to the stand before putting the tank on it. Like you said, you will likely end up sliding the tank back and forth a bit to get it into just the right position, and you don't want the foam shifting with it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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