jason the filter freak

@DFR Thank you!

@zygote2k The ball valves I used are from supply house, cheaper than BRS and of equal or higher quality. The gate valve is from BRS its the "higher quality" one that can be pulled apart to service. I have moved all valves away from bulkheads. Which actually resulted in one inside my overflow ?

@Jon Lazar i did buy some of those. They worked perfectly before i installed the manifold under the tank at which point they became nealy impossible to clip and unclip. I still think they may be my best hope unless theres some more magical solution

Good idea but i cant use the wood trick because of unions and tees

Best way to support a manifold? I pics would be nice if you have them. I tried the J hooks to no avail and i do not want to use strapping.

Posted this on the Neptune forums and now i cant find it. I think they deleted my post.

Yes it's a classic realized orange lable wasn't overly specific. I checked the forums for a while and couldn't find a decent answer but plenty of mods giving the generic "nothing goes in the aquabus bus but Neptune stuff" but they also still insist that aquabus cables are special vs quality USB cables.

To my understanding the reason for the warning about plugging USB devices is specifically because USB devices are around 5-6v native so you'd fry them with 12v. The Aquabus must carry some sort of amperage because an orange box Apex can run 29 modules without a 12v power supply for the brain. Something like the waterbug wb-200 requires 35 miliamps (.035 Amps) to run. Something like a wxm transmitting wirelessly or A FMM monitoring 4 flow monitors has to draw at least that many miliamps? Again my electrical engineering knowledge is just enough to get me though installing light sockets and switches and small diy electronics.

Someone with an electrical background must have some idea if this would work?

I have a waterbug WB-200 system but im all out of space to plug in a 12volt power supply. In theory Aquabus puts out 12V DC any reason (aside from voiding warranties) I couldnt use the power carrier wires of a USB cord to provide 12V DC to the waterbug?

I think i got the feed back i needed. Im going to ditch the aux ball valve for simplicity (i probably wont add anything else anyway.

Also, thinking about using the pvc all in one glue. Any reason i shouldn't do that?

All 1" plumbing, the return pump is a reef octopus varios 6. So #2 is an automated (on/off) ball valve. I will be able to use an auto feeder to dump food into my return area to feed the tank via return pump flow, after the ball valve shuts off flow to the rest of my manifold (to keep food out of my reactor and skimmer feed, the return pump will also dial back in gph at this time as well since its not running the whole manifold). #1 Is there my return pump feeds the system. It tees off immediately to the left is the reactors, skimmer feed, and an aux ball valve for possible future applications. #3 is the feed return to the tank, there will be a ball valve inline with the return to create back pressure to feed the manifold if necessary. #4 Aux ball valve for furture expansion.

I found similar info burried on RC which terminal does which wire go to?

ATO Question: Can I change IO version to bare wire? Buying the bare wire version isnt in the budget Could i in theory cut off the (ps2?) connector of the Apex IO version and hook it to my break out box? I need to keep the IO port for my break out box.

Thank you everyone!! Im 95% done with my plumbing. Im waiting on a single union ball vavle which are super rare, weird. Cant wait to glue and leak test.

Unions will be used on the drains. A ball valve to add back pressure will be mounted inside the display over flow

@AlanM @DFR @Jon Lazar @madweazl @malacoda @zygote2k etc. Blood, sweat, and almost tears 6 hours and 4 trips to the hardware store to rebuild my sump setup, return manifol, and drain setup just because a bunch of people on the internet told me to ?. And i wouldn't have it any other way. I really appreciate all the input. I added a ton of head pressure to get the manifold to fit in such a small spot. But now i have straight drains and a new sump configuration

Next place we move live rock is mostly illegal. I had more or less the same batch of liverock for 15 years and will have to start over and want to start with that artificial purple look. I know there are draw backs especially related to bioavailable space for bacteria im not worried about that. More worried about longevity of the rock, leaching, etc. Help me choose

I have a really weird motive which is i want my primary siphon drain plumbing to have a smaller ID from the get go and the emergency drain to have the biggest ID because i intend to run power head wiring through the emergency drain. Sounds insane but it makes for a very clean application. It is a bit harder to service your power heads but i enjoy the tradeoff immensely.

Is drain capacity determined by the smallest diameter in a system. Say i run 3 feet schedule 40 plumbing but then use schedule 80 fittings, couplers etc. Would the flow be the same as if id just used all schedule 80? Due to the nominal internal diameter?

@AlanM Its a kit that came with 3 bulk heads and some misc 1" plumbing. Im doing all my own pipe and drain fittings. I am using a gate valve on the drain.

Im main hunting for a setup where the loudest conponet is the fan in my radion which is darn near silent

The apex one. And ive been happy with my avast one.

Doesnt PaulBs 40 something year old tank have under gravel filters?