Jump to content

jason the filter freak

BB Participant
  • Posts

    10,430
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by jason the filter freak

  1. I'm like 98% sure any and all photos this old got burned in forum migration right? If not is there a way to locate any pics from this thread?
  2. I may work but aesthetically I don't think that's an approach that's gonna work for me. Thank you for the suggestion though
  3. I've never seen blue sun coral before..very cool
  4. I have an Azure and it got along with everyone until about the 9 month mark. Now it fights with the royal gramma also added at the same time. Pretty regularly.
  5. @RW09903 just trying to eliminate about 1/3 of three colonies of zoa/paly that have grown out of control and are crowding others out probably 20-40 of them.
  6. What Eric said. Steve tried to create a paly essential oil diffuser by pouring boiling water over some. I did at some point end up in the ER from getting juice in my eye and ended up needing steroids and antibiotics. ?
  7. Got a potters eats algae all day long, it leaves kiss marks on the glass like algae blenny do. But won't eat aptasia and so far knock on wood doesn't eat zoa nor grogornia
  8. If you preface that 1. You are not saying to dose Cipro as you're not a Dr./Vet 2. State that Cipro is a prescription medication and 3. You're not saying that Cipro is THE solution and do it your own risk. I would absolutely post it for the simple reason that there really isn't much profit/interest in active research on using medications in advanced applications so not being researched that much. It's really helpful to get the information out there.
  9. I swear I had a thread on this already... Interested in hearing people's successful* methods of killing Zoa and Paly without removing rock nor the zoa/paly from the tank. Also if you're killing more than a couple of polyps do you find that water changes, carbon, other methods of toxin export are crucial? If you're killing Zoa/paly adjacent to others do you change your methods? *successful being things like: Effective in killing off polyps, doesn't result in a huge mess, repeatable etc. Ideas so far. F Aptasia -Expensive and doesn't work on vertical surfaces well. Boil tank water and inject polyps- May release large amounts of toxin into the water column, may not be effective? DIce polyps with scalpel and use gravel vac to try to siphon parts as I go- may have same toxin releasing effect and requires 3 hands and may not fully remove polyp
  10. Getting ready to start a micro tank, 0.5 total gallonage. Im looking into a mechanical ATO like the following. Question is, are they more functional than gimmicky I don't often trust Amazon reviews. People have already mentioned ionic diffusion isn't an issue. I'm highly doubtful a mechanical/electronic ATO will fit and If it would hose routing would be huge vs tank size, pump output out size of a small doser would be too fast to fill and frankly I don't feel like spending $100-200 on an ATO.
  11. Welcome to a wonderful world of knowledge and support with a local flair.
  12. I posted the wrong results. That screen shot I was asking randy Holmes Farley about. I have Caribsea Hawaiian Black sand in my tank Wich is very ferrous. Randy indicated it's pretty much a non issue. I'm strongly considering ending the Chaeto Brightwell dosing. I suspect the Chaeto dying had more to do with the low nitrates and Phos than anything else. Here's those levels I've just doubled the amount of AB+ I'm using and plan to go back to feeding reef roids 2x a week.
  13. I'm wondering how anyone heats a micro aquarium? 0.5-1.0 gallon I think even 5 watts may be too much at a 74-76 ambient temp.
  14. Occasionally. Zoas shrinking/dying off and becoming less colorful is definitely and issue. Cyano/dino blooms are few and far between.
  15. Losing corals, losing color on corals, chaeto dying, intermittent cyano/diatom blooms.
  16. So I've been skeptical about my Salifert and TropicMarin kits reading zero for Nitrates. So I sucked it up and spent the $$ on a Hanna LR Nitrate checker. Sure enough after running the test correctly* twice, I get 0.00. I'm blown away my Nitrates are 0. Hanna checker ULR Phos says my level is 0.5. After years and years of NITRATE BAD PHOSPHATE BAD. I'm hesitant/flabbergasted to think I might need to dose those. Can I feed more? Get a diamond goby to stir up my sand bed? Stop doing water changes? BIO LOAD (LIVE STOCK): I have around 80 gal of volume with adult 2 Bangii, 2 nearly adult Ocellaris, nearly adult Azure damsel, juvi-adult royal gramma, a juvi-adult potters angel and a antenna goby. Cleaner shimp, porcelain crab, misc CUC. BIO LOAD (FOOD): I dose 10mL AB+ daily, feed a healthy heap of New Life Spectrum daily (though I try to make sure the majority is consumed by the fish and not end up on the sand bed. FILTRATION AND MAINT: I do around a 10 gal w/c with Reef Crystals once a month.Before I started checking levels I dropped my filter sock changes to 2 x a week because my skimmer (reef essence 130) wasn't pulling much and my chaeto was dying. Now I use Brightwell Cheato for the cheato and it seems to be helping. I also run rox carbon for water polishing. Change it every 1-3 months (aka when I remember to) CORAL: Tank is 95% zoa and Paly (the rest is anemone, no SPS/LPS. I have noticed some die off but I was attributing to my lights being too strong, finicky nature of some coral, and possibly tank wide chem warfare from other paly/zoa.
  17. https://reefbuilders.com/2021/07/26/bulk-reef-supply-acquires-controller-company-neptune-systems/?utm_source=dlvr.it&utm_medium=facebook
  18. Obviously running yet w different skimmer than the tank and sump shots. Nonetheless, I have the macro reactor inlet turned as far away from the skimmer effluent as I can. Even added a sponge to the inlet of the macro reactor. I still get a ton of bubbles.
×
×
  • Create New...