bshriver

Has anyone tried aiptasia x on nuisance paly's or any other aiptasia removal method on them? --- I am here: http://maps.google.com/maps?ll=39.107326,-77.199884

Thanks! I have not taken any pics in a while - at least not any good ones. I got a new Canon 100MM Macro lens too, so I have no good excuse. Both the 210 and 110 are plugging along as well as possible given the lack of TLC this past year. The fish are all doing well as is the coral at the moment. My 210 got a little out of whack over the summer when the CA reactor ran out of media. I lost a few pieces before I had time to replace probes and refresh the media. Maybe over XMas I will have time to clean it up and take some new pics. I am building a nice LED fixture for the 110 (the tank with the powder blue and the emperor angel in it). It is alomst complete. The emperor angel will eventually move to the 210 if he continues to eb coral friendly. Thanks for looking!

Does anyone know where to get parts for an Aquatec RO/DI booster pump. My leaks and I don't want to throw it away because of a bad $5 gasket. I searched but had no luck. --- I am here: http://maps.google.com/maps?ll=39.353824,-76.979231

Just get a spreadsheet app for your iPad and track it there.

Sounds like a good idea. I have tried it without the days of conditioning. I will add that to the approach.

I am actually not sure I the pipes are lied in but I think they are. I bought the tank used and can't get them out.

Now if someone can just tell me how to get my flame hawk out of the overflow on my 215 gallon. He has been there for a year now.

Note my statement refers to the components of the circuit not the loads. You don't want to plug a 24 amp air compressor into you 15 amp DC8

The entire unit is fused for 15 amps. I have not had good luck with their fuses though. I had a unit fail in one socket that shorted. It tripped the house breaker before the fuse went. When you flipped on the house breaker the dc8 emitted a flash of light but the fuse never tripped. I opened it up and it had a shorted component. I need to attempt the repair. In general you want your electrical components to be rated at higher amp specs than the protective components of your circuit. In this case, the protective components are the fuse on the DC8 and the breaker. Using a triac that can handle more current than it will ever get is safer/less of a fire hazard than the opposite. Having a 12 amp triac in a power strip rated at and fused at 15 amps is a fire hazard in my opinion. It can get too hot without tripping the breaker or the fuse.

I think running carbon is a good thing to do and a 25% water change with known good water could not hurt while you figure out what is happening.

I have dine exactly what beetle did. Use the biggest sump that will fit. I have also drilled them for the return pump. I have not really been happy with HOB fuges when I have tried them. I used four acrylic baffles in mine. Two on each side of the fuge.

I think I would give up the fish first but luckily I don't have to because I really like my fish

I work off of omega drive and key west ave. I may be able to assist during the work week sometimes depending on schedules. Pm me and we can see.

Coral magazine now has an iPad and an iPhone app. They are both free and provide free access to issues. The navigation on the ipad seemed a bit clunky to me but the content is great Check them out. Search for coral magazine in the app store. I have not checked the android app store yet.

Get this hermit off my back!! Peek a boo - I broke off a bunch of the tube snails and he got covered with some of the slime. And two shots from my 210 The leather is starting to heal from the free fragfest from a few weeks back. I owe people some PMs for the next one.

Well, I had the camera out today and took some snaps of my fish in my 110. My son cleaned up the glass so you could actually see in It is turning into the worlds biggest tube worm farm. Anyway, some of my favorite fish are in it. But first, some old flourescence shots from a few years back. A guy who studies flourescence in corals came to a CMAS meeting a while back and sold glasses and blue flashlights? Well I used them to take these shots. Now the fish and inverts from the 110

+1 I recommend taking a piece of scrap acrylic, drilling the same size hole in it, and put it over the hole on the outside of the tank and sandwich it in place when you screw on the bulk head. This will reinforce the glass around the bulk head some. It is very easy to break the glass accidentally by putting pressure on the bulkhead when you are working around it especially if the bulkhead connects to a rigid pipe coming out of it. A little downward pressure on the pipe and crack! Water everywhere. It makes a good lever arm. I broke a 30 gallon sump this way one night taking out my Kalk reactor to clean it. I had my a spare 30 around, drilled it and broke it too the same night plumbing it in. Long night

Thanks! Now if I can just can a water change regimen greater than once every 6 months, my SPS growth might take off again I have no real plans for any more livestock. I may add a couple more lyretail anthias and some smaller fish like a clown or lemon goby. I have an emperor juvenile in my 110 gallon seeing if he will eat coral or not. So far so good. I have never had trouble with angels eating coral - so far I have had long term luck with a coral beauty, a flame angel and a grey poma angel. Now I have had the emperor for a month or so. If he works out, I may get rid of the sailfin tang and move the emperor up. I suspect I will be pushing the bio load as it is with the 5 tangs that are still growing so adding an emperor on top of that may be too much. I think one of the lumenbright reflectors on this system came from you, but I have trouble remembering everybody I get stuff from I got a rebel T1I DSLR camera for xmas. Here are a few shots I took playing around with it the first day. The first is the best but I am not sure why the purple color shows up on the edge of color transitions. Perhaps a camera buff can fill me in on what I am doing wrong. All of my shots with the white balance setting I was using tended to mix some purple in on the blue tang and my blue devils. The view from my favorite chair and some other random ones

So a friend came by with a DSLR and got a few decent pics. Better than my iPhone anyway I messed with the return and stirred up a bunch of debris. Plus the tank is just getting over its first small bout with cyno (old lights, bad pump - both fixed), but there are some good shots despite my tank Note, the leather is recovering from some major recent fraggage A few FTS with fish in various spots. Followed by a bunch of random coral/fish shots.

It has come a long way in a few years! Plus an upgrade. Looks great! Open and clean! Good work Mark!

Well the female balck clown seemed to die of old age. She was around 6 years old. I had a normal morph ocelaris pair as well that was six years old and lost that female too. Is that how long the females live? Anyway, I decided to put the two males together in the 210 and see what happens. They seemed to have paired right away. Pics in a sec. Chalice row

I have kept them in the past. The same colony can go from mustard brown yellow to almost yellow tang yellow depending on the lights. Mine liked a lot of light.

Outstanfing Mike!