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SandJ

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Everything posted by SandJ

  1. The photo of the fish gills was taken holding an iphone up to the eyepiece of the microscope.
  2. I have two microscopes and I have a couple digital microscopes (made for kids, can be used as a microscope or dissecting scope). I use the microscope frequently. It is a older Nikon (service sticker is from the 80's) that I bought at a consignment store for $10. I also have a newer AmScope microscope I bought new from eBay, but seldom use it because I like the Nikon better.The kids and I can spend hours looking at tank water. It is amazing what you can find. In one of my older post there is pictures of a Tardigrade (water bear) I found in my tank. The digitals are great for looking at something alive to that you do not want to squish under a cover slip. Also good for inspecting new additions to the tank for pest or disease. This is the Nikon Fish gills with Nikon
  3. Kinda looks like Uronema Marinum. Has it been in the same tank/water system as any chromis?
  4. If you are using an API test kit it may give a false reading of .25 for ammonia, when it is actually zero. They are know for that.
  5. I don't have a tool, and mine was already assembled when I bought the tank, but these methods look like they may make he process easier: http://jjhale.com/blog/2010/03/how-to-join-loc-line-modular-adjustable-hose-without-a-special-tool/ The method of heating the socket and chilling the ball end seemed like it would be effective. ETA: I am glad I seen this post because I did not realize it required a tool to assemble. Saved me a lot of trouble somewhere down the road.
  6. Thank you so much Milton! I will be marking my container tomorrow. I used the 5 gallon bucket method to mark the 20 gallon saltwater container, and I used an online volume calculator to determine each gallon in a 5 gallon bucket is 2 3/4" :0)
  7. Thanks! That would be awesome! No rush though, just wanted to know for next water change to make things a little easier :0)
  8. That is what I meant to do, but I forgot and have already added an unknown amount of water to the container (directly from rodi unit) lol
  9. I forgot to measure water and mark my brute trash can with gallons. Does anyone have their 32g brute can marked with gallons? If so, could you measure the markings? The alternative is to use a volume calculator, but I would have to take into account the uneven bottom and taper in the can. Just thought if someone had their can measured out it would be more accurate :0) Thanks in advance!
  10. Tank is a 36 gallon bow front. The clowns seem like a likely suspect, but I honestly don't think it is the clowns. The clowns never leave their home (Xenia) and I have never seen them go after the six line. I know that clowns tend to get more aggressive as they get older, but they have never shown aggression. The chromis' favorite spot is a couple inches behind the clowns in the rockwork and they never pay attention to him. I am home out of the time so I observe the tank several times a day (plus my 14 year old daughter watches them numerous times through out the day). And all these fish have been together almost 3 years with no issue (8 months with me). This happened during the night. The clowns never leave the Xenia, and the wrasse never leaves the rockwork at night. I was going to remove him (and maybe treat with some abx just in case) but he is doing fine in the tank, nothing bothers him even when he lays on the bottom. I figured as long as he was doing well in the tank and still able to get food I would leave him and not stress him out in the ht. He actually perked up last night. Started swimming around and picking around the tank for food.
  11. Found my Six Line with substantial injuries yesterday morning. It was fine the night before. In the tank is: Pair of clowns 1 chromis 1 diamond goby 1 six line 2 peppermint shrimp 1 18" brittle star (lives under a rock) I have never added any other fish to the tank. Have added a few corals (3 different occasions), last one was 4 months ago. I have had this tank set up since march. Bought as a two year old established set up. Never had any health issues from any of the fish. The wrasse sleeps in holes in the rock work every night. About two weeks ago, I checked on the tank one morning and found the wrasse has scales missing along its dorsal fin (and the fin itself was damaged). Figured it just rubbed it on a rock. Healed up in a couple days. *****Yesterday morning I found the wrasse in a corner on the bottom. Same area was beat up (looks like a chunk taken out), plus the left fin is mostly missing along with an injury to the anal area. He still swims around (as well as he can with one fin), eats and goes to the bathroom. spends most of the time on the bottom though. He did to go the rocks to sleep last night. Wondering if anyone knows what could cause injuries like this out of the blue?
  12. The tank is due for a water change. I just looked in the fresh water container (food grade white/opaque 20 gallon brute) and there is a reddish brown sludge in the bottom. Instant Ocean salt powerhead for circulation heated to low 70's What is this? And can I still use the water?
  13. It is HDPE, but we should have replacement container frequently. So becoming brittle should not be an issue. That is an excellent point for someone buying just for the jug and may be using the same one long term. This is how it looks set up: I drilled a hole in the back of the cabinet and ran the black fill line out it. This keeps me from running a hose carrying water over the power bar, just in case. I do not have a sump, so the shut off switch for the Tunze ATO has to mount in the tank. But due to the trim on the tank, the switch is too low :::sigh::: I guess I could make a mount out of a piece of acrylic?
  14. Thanks everyone! I will give it another rinse, drill a hole in the top and hook everything up :0)
  15. Thanks, that is what I was thinking. If I put some rodi water with a tds of zero in the jug, let it set and test it again...would that be an accurate test of the jug leaching? Or would the contaminants not show up on tds?
  16. I am installing a TUNZE ATO. Just emptied a cat litter jug and it looks like the perfect size ATO container. The cat litter is NOT scented. Think it would be safe to use?
  17. Would you be able to post a picture of the fish? Could brooklynella or velvet be involved also?
  18. I am assuming the white pieces coming out of the wall are some sort of shut off valve. Never seen any like that though. Edit to say, it looks like the white valve says "pull to close" (maybe push, can't make it out). So that would be where/how to turn the water off. If you can shut off the sink supply, it looks like you would: -unhook the supply line at the top where it connects to sink -find the pieces to screw into that end of the supply and put in a 1/4" quick connect valve that will "T" off to the rodi unit -then install another supply line on the other end (reverse the above step) -now the second supply line will screw onto the sink So you will have 2 white supply lines with a 1/4" rodi quick connect in between. Your toilet water supply should have a shut off valve that is easy to get to. It may take a few parts, like above, but Home Depot or lowes should have all the pieces to hook up to the rodi unit. You can install what ever end you need onto the rodi unit to make it work with the plumbing. I just took the faucet adapter off mine and installed the garden hose adapter. now I can use it with the faucet outside, washing machine hookup, or with the sink faucet adapter that has multiple threads.
  19. Yes, I have been adjusting it to get a dry skimmate. Thanks for the suggestion. The bottom of the collection cup did not have a tight fit so I cut air line and put along two edges. That stopped the foam from leaking around the bottom of the cup. I think it is just the time of day. The amount of skimmate produced slows down or stops around noon.
  20. Thanks to both of you for your help! Yes, I did not want to cause a mini-cycle so I took the media out a little at a time. I had been cleaning it weekly, but you are correct, it is a pain to keep clean. I will work on removing the canister in a little bit. The skimmer seemed to be doing its job. In 17 hours it pulled 1 quart of tea colored skimmate. But as of a few hours ago, it has stopped producing.
  21. I purchased an established tank back in March. It is a 36 gallon bow front. Five fish (pair of clowns, diamond goby, chromis, six line and a huge brittle star), 40 pounds of sand, 60 pounds of live rock and has a Fluval 306 canister filter (no sump). So far I have removed (not all at once, one at a time over a few months): the ceramic cylinders, black sponges, black bio-balls, and two of the 4 foam blocks. So now there are just 2 of the foam blocks in the canister (did have GFO in it for a couple months). Today I installed a Remora AquaC HOB skimmer. So my question, is it ok to remove the canister filter? Is there anything special I should do once it is removed (increase CUC, etc...)? Thanks in advance for any help!
  22. Thanks Tom! Hooked everything up last night and ran it today. No leaks!!! The TDS is reading 3 after the membrane and 0 after the DI. Probably need to buy a booster pump for the RODI, pressure varies from 30 to 40 PSI.
  23. Just want to make sure I am doing this correctly. I have a Reverse Osmosis Revolution counter top RO/DI unit. I am installing a pressure gauge and in line TDS unit. Pressure gauge: right before the inlet to the membrane? In line duel TDS meter: right after the membrane and after the DI? Thanks in advance for the help!
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