Rob A

I also just saw that like 2 or 3 days ago and activated it. No idea if it is working. I guess I could try testing it.

We have one that I bought at MACNA 2015 (from Jellyfishart.com) as they were closing up shop. They gave me 4 jellies with it and we brought them to the school we work at and kept them in the library (my wife is the the librarian). We took them home over winter break and spring break and brought them back to school after the breaks. For several months they seemed to do really well. They required weekly 1 gal water changes and occasional tank cleaning (can't remember the schedule). I brought in RODI water from home and we stuck to the schedule with no problem. Eventually they started shrinking (like one at a time) and by late April or early May we were down to just 1 jelly that slowly shrunk down to almost nothing. When they get too tiny they start getting caught up in the grid at the bottom of the tank and it goes down hill from there. Once they get below a certain size they seem to loose the ability to stay suspended. Since the others had also slowly shrunk we had experimented a lot with the airflow to regulate the water rotation speed. We had seen one or two of them shrink but then grow again so I'm not sure what the issue was. I don't know if the food got old/went bad or what. Since we weren't here on weekends they missed out on those feedings, but the jellyfish people had said that wouldn't be an issue. Also, as they got smaller I would occasionally scoop them out with a cup and feed them in the cup. That enabled me to create a denser cloud of food without polluting the main tank and gave them a chance to grab more of it as opposed to what they could collect just drifting around in the tank. I don't feel like we did a very good job so we have been hesitant about buying more jellies but we still might try it again.

I'm sorry you are having issues with your tank and corals. It can be frustrating at times. It takes patience and time. It's worth it to become a member of WAMAS so you have access to things that members sell. The selection and price of corals for sale right now would blow your mind. There is a lot for sale right now since we are coming up on a quarterly meeting date. You may or may not be ready for some corals right now but when you are, you can be assured that the selections and prices from members is well worth the $20 membership fee.

If this is your light mentioned in the article listed below then I doubt it's anywhere near bright enough for your corals, even for zoas, unless you move them up pretty high, even then It might not be enough. Depth in Inches PAR Readings in Micromoles 12” 36 micromoles/cm2 18” 28 micromoles/cm2 24” 21 micromoles/cm2 http://current-usa.com/is-the-satellite-freshwater-led-plus-bright-enough/

This is a view from the front of the tank looking at the strainer. When it's operating properly the water is covering about 3/4 to 7/8 of the strainer. I just leave a little gap at the top so that the surface junk can get through the strainer and into the overflow box. Sent from my SM-N900P using Tapatalk

Thanks, yeah, it's hard to show in 2d. Mine is a strainer so the bottom 2/3 of the strainer is actually under water even though there is fall into the box.

In this picture I made the overflow tube position is mostly just for reference, the water heights are the relevant parts. This is based on the experience I have had with my system. Sent from my SM-N900P using Tapatalk

If the surface of the water in the display tank is higher than the strainer opening to the overflow box then no, the surface will not skim. I have to watch that on mine. I want the water level to be a little higher than it is but if I make it too high then the debris won't skim because my water level ends up being higher than the strainer opening. It works best when the water level is just a little bit below the strainer opening and also then falls into the box (maybe 1/2 inch of drop) to create a tumbling motion. Even with the tumbling motion, if it's not enough of a disturbance the siphon still might not get the stuff that's floating on the surface of the overflow box area. Someone suggested I remove my main siphon pipe and that seemed to make the surface debris disappear better.

If you match your flow into the tank with what your main siphon can remove by itself then the height of the water can be adjusted by either slightly closing the Valve that you have under your siphon or by raising the height of the siphon. Then just make sure that the other two lines are capable of draining the tank without it overflowing in the event that your main siphon gets blocked. I'm not seeing a link to your layout but if I had to choose between the ball valve and the gate valve to throttle the supply I like the gate valve because you can fine-tune it easier than the ball valve. I'm going to change mine to the gate valve. Also I guess you could just remove the siphon pipe like I showed in that one picture and just turn up the flow from your pump until the water height is where you want it and then just put your second and third pipes at the right height that they need to be to prevent the tank from overflowing if the siphon line gets blocked.

Sorry, it's not a good pic. None of the lines are more than an inch under water, and frequently i move the overflow line to the side (it has a threaded joint) which raises it out of the water, that way i can see and hear if any thing is running through it.. I stop the pump every day for feeding and it all restarts with no issue.

If I don't use the little tube on the overflow it is pretty stable.

Welcome! I think one of the biggest issues with tanks that small is maintaining water quality. Lower volume of water = faster changes in conditions. I think that for nanos frequent water changes are in order. Adding a sump helps increase your water volume. Hopefully some of the people with nano tanks will chime in. Some of the soft corals are more forgiving about water quality, hard corals are not, so you are definitely better starting off with those. It won't take you long before you'll want those hard corals though! I couldn't ID that HOB filter you are using to see what it does. Just be careful, some things that work great for freshwater end up generating too much nitrates for saltwater. I haven't used the Matrix bio-media but if it does what it says then you are probably okay. Good luck and keep us posted on your progress!

Sent from my SM-N900P using Tapatalk

Normally it is okay, but the tweaking of the supply can mess it up a little. I'm doing some weird stuff with my overflow too, the main siphon splits in half and one half goes to the sump and another half goes through a rollermat filter (the rollermat can't handle all of the flow). I'm still playing around with it. I have a ball valve in the supply line that throttles the pump and I think I'm going to cut it out and put in one of those nice gate valves for more precise control. Siphon control valve is just wide open all the time now.

Here are before and after pics of the removed siphon... Yes, I have the elbows on both the siphon and open channel and I did drill a hole in the open channel pipe and there is flow occasionally. I tweak the flow into the tank because sometimes the water is too high and stuff on the surface doesn't get through the strainer because the water level is higher than the strainer opening sometimes. In this picture I have shut the pump off so that the water would drop so you could see the strainer. If the water gets higher than the strainer then yes it will run through the open channel. I haven't perfected the level but it's okay so I've left it alone for now. Just yesterday I added the little tube to the open channel so that it would actually going to siphon mode when the water got too high so then what started happening was about once every 10 minutes it would actually go into siphon mode, then the level would drop a bit and then the open channel would gurgle until it settled down and the water rose up a little bit so it almost worked better with just a hole in the elbow. I have played with a little tube of it and I can change how often it goes into siphon mode but again it might be better to just remove the little hose. I have my pump throttled back and it feeds some other stuff so the flow tends to change as opposed to a system with a pump that has no throttling. Sent from my SM-N900P using Tapatalk

I did have to play with the pipe heights a bit because with my setup it affects the level in the tank. Once I had the siphon figured out I made the open channel about 1/2 inch higher and then the emergency about 1 inch higher. Oh, also I recently took my siphon line completely out to help make sure that stuff that is skimmed goes down the drain and doesn't just accumulate on the surface of the overflow box. Someone on here recommended that and it seems to be working okay. BUT if you do it, depending on your setup the tank might drain down more than you want it to during a power outage...So just double check.

I just set mine up in Oct with 3 one inch lines. They way it works best for me is to throttle the pump until the full siphon line is handling the draining by itself. It's hard to get it exact so some also goes through the open channel, but if you aim for matching what the siphon can handle (and a height you are happy with in the tank) you should have it pretty close to perfect. Mine is ultra quiet. Even if you have to throttle the flow to the tank, with a 40gal tank the amount of flow you will get with a 3/4 siphon should be more than the general recommended 5x turnover per hour. There are charts floating around online so you can double check to see what the rates are.

Are you looking for the specific names like Darth Maul zoanthid and Jedi Mind Trick montioora, or just the general name like zoanthid, montipora, etc? Sent from my SM-N900P using Tapatalk

Cycling typically takes 6 weeks, but live rock could speed the process up depending on what rock you get. Typical rule of thumb is one pound of rock per gallon of water. Regardless of which way you go you will eventually see nitrites start to form and ammonia drop off and then nitrates start to form and nitrites will drop off. It takes awhile for the various bacteria to show up on their own so additives or actual live rock can help speed it up.

Hoping for a speedy recovery!

I have had them eat zoas. They also seem to like coralline algae, but I can't say for sure that they eat it. They seemed to end up being like a plague for me. I had a 220gal set up and I would occasionally use a small siphon hose routed down to a net over the sump and suck them out of the display. Even if they didn't eat the zoas there just ended up being so many on the glass that I didn't like the way it looked.

Sorry about your fish!

Did your fish recover?

Finally hooked the rollermat filter back up. I'm not sure if it will stay in this configuration or not. I wanted to run the entire tank overflow through it but that is too much flow . It's designed to handle about 600 GPH so the main overflow has a drain valve branched off of it so that I can regulate how much goes into the filter and how much just dumps into the sump. This means that only a portion of the return water is getting filtered through the rollermat. I guess some is better than none. There are also chunks of detritus accumulating in the bottom of the rollermat tank. Maybe I need to put some hermit crabs in there, lol. Wide shot of filter area Piping to rollermat Look how dirty the paper is! I recently added a carbon reactor. I guess it put more card in the water then I realized even though I rinsed it first. Food bits collecting in the roller mat tank after just a couple of days of use. I shut the pumps down for 10 minutes for feeding. Maybe I need to feed less or delay the pumps longer. Sent from my SM-N900P using Tapatalk

I would be most concerned with the eating. If it was eating I would think that if it has the display tank to itself, that might be good enough for it to recuperate. If it's not eating then I don't know what is the best thing to do, assuming you tried everything you can get your hands on including things like black worms or whatever some of the more exotic foods are the people of WAMAS have mentioned in the past in other posts. But hopefully you'll get some other advice, the more the better considering that gem tangs cost more than my first new car. I should add that I am not familiar with many medications and don't know which ones might help with something like swollen and cloudy eyes.