dante411x

Hahaha yeah I did! She was shocked to say the least! And the walls are all magnet mounted to the metal drywall framing behind them for now. I have access to big access panels for free... So if the conversation with landlord goes well and he wants to keep the tank (and make lots of months of rent free) then all the walls will get painted and get access panels in the everywhere once they get finished Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks man. Yeah, it's not finished 100% yet, there's still painting the wall and actually sealing it all in place but I've gotta have a conversation with my landlord before I make this a permanent structure. But it is basically the final look of it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

And it seems that after months of trying, I'm finally getting everything done. This is the fish room as it looks right now, on the left is my empty qt tank. It's probably going to be replaced by a 40g frag tank sometime in the future. Placing it there will also make it super easy to tie it into my main system whenever I want. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Water probably isn't that much compared to power. Water is what? $2.50 per thousand gallons? I wonder how many gpd his ro system can push out Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I looked at a few threads and it seemed like the way to do it was to isolate the final intake step in a small container. So I searched everywhere and couldn't find any containers... Until this brilliant idea hit me! And voila!: Adjust air regulator to make sure I don't overflow the skimmer Put air intake into top of container... Tada! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

What I want to know is his par readings. Only 12 400w MH for a 20000 gallon tank? That thing is how deep? I suddenly feel like I'm way overdoing it. Someone go sell him some led's haha. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Lol, it's ok to be jealous. I sure am. I want a winning lottery ticket haha Also, he hit the nail on the head with why he likes to have the tank. Simple things are boring. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks for clearing that up Inevo. Looks like I've got the order that I would want down then. I'm not worried about leak detection yet, probably add that in the future, but for the rest, this seems like all I would need: Reef angel plus controller with analog dimming signal Relay expansion + relay box Wifi attachment Jebao/speed wave cable - 3 of them Are there any other cables/attachments that I'll need in order to make all that work? Or is that it? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Gotcha. Just did some research and found this too So here comes the next question... Do I want the analog or the PWM.. Right now, it would be used to control Jebao WP-40's and a Speedwave DC10000. Seems like analog is the way to go. However! It also looks like there's a possible way to control D120 LED's with the analog one? I don't have them now, but it's something I'm considering for the future. And to demonstrate my lack of knowledge about differences, I take it if I see a driver that is dimmable by 0-10V that's analog? Edit: just for example a Mean Well ELN-60-27Ddriver is analog and a Mean Well ELN-60-27Pis PVM?

I do have a question though. What extra hardware will I need in order to connect a second power bar to the reef angel? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yeah, I read that thread already. And that's disappointing that you can't upload code over wifi.. But I guess that prevents some hacker from making my tank kill itself from anywhere Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So, in continuation with the fact that my girlfriend is reef friendly... I'm apparently getting an Apex for my birthday or so I've been told. However, after she told me that, I now know what her budget is and can make adjustments... I've been thinking about this for a little while, and I think I'd rather get a reef angel. If all I've got is $550 budget. Would really love to see some RA people pitch in here. I've seen an Apex. I know Apex is awesome. But I've no problem programming the controller to do what I want, and it seems that for the same price I could easily get much more from a reef angel. Here's what I would want my controller to do: Monitor PH and Temp - duh Turn on heater and turn off heater - duh (1 outlet now, 2 in near future when I finally convince myself that only having one 500w heater is a bad idea in many ways) Turn on and off all my lights - (7 outlets. 3 for each MH light, 2 for each PC, 1 for moonlights, 1 for refugium light) Turn on and off kalk reactor - 1 outlet. ties off to the ph probe! Turn on and off ato pump (and monitor how long it runs, monitor a float switch and a reduntant one for backup) - 1 outlet Here's what I would also like for my controller to do, but don't really care if it actually happens: Monitor my return pump and tell me if it stops working - 1 more outlet Monitor my skimmer and tell me if it stops working - 1 more outlet Monitor my floor and tell me if it's wet! Also it would be pretty cool to be able to hit a feed button and have the return pump and skimmer shut off for a set amount of time. I have jebao pumps and it looks like a reef angel ties into them already, so would be neat to have it as a monitor/feed mode starter/some other cool stuff these pumps don't do already that I could figure out. Now, that's at least 11 outlets that I need. That would mean 2 8-outlet strips from either RA or Apex. Also, it would be pretty darn hard to get a cord to my fish room and/or I would have to buy something along the lines of an Airport Express to connect the Apex without the wifi module. Now that's been said and done, lets look at prices: If I get an Apex, I get the unit with lab grade ph probe, temp probe, 8 outlet power bar. If I get a RA, for the same $550 I could get the RA Plus, Wifi module, 2 Jebao cords and an extra 8 outlet power bar. The RA is clearly winning that race so far. At least in my head. Am I missing something here?

Well, like I said "who really knows" and the two posts below are definitely from people that know more than me, so... Last night when I read this I got very terrified. Started crazy amounts of research and looking at my tank with a telescopic lens. I knew what it was, but reading Isaac saying that... well, I think I was justified I was a little less terrified. Just some honesty hehe I'm now very curious to see how an LTA fares in there. Of course! It was great to meet you as well. As far as I know there's nothing evil and invasive in my tank, but at the same time, I wasn't exactly the most careful reefer when adding things to my tank.

Wow this wasn't a short thread to read through! Wish I'd seen it earlier, this was a great read! As for those little "growths" they came with the Pukani rock that I got. I've no clue what they actually are, I talked about them with Steve at QR when I first noticed them. They don't seem to spread too much and the consensus was that it's some kind of a tube filter worm. Mum sure you can take a knife to them and scab them off. Glad to see the CC open though Edit: I was told they're not harmful and actually good for the tank. Filtering and such.. Whether or not that's true.. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

two weeks should be enough time for slime coat to build up so it's not that.. maybe the bubble traps are too thin and water flows through them too fast? I solved all my issues by putting skimmer return pipe under water, but I have a very weird setup and I don't care about the backpressure so I don't know if that would work for you..

Yeah, I read the diy post on making those controllable and it definitely looks like it's out of my scope of knowledge. I guess I could learn how to do it.. Seems like with a few more of these "I could learn.." I'll be able to add "have a reef tank" to my resume. That's good to know that I could only use one outlet when needed. Thanks Yeah, i figured that if it was possible, someone else would have tried it by now. It would certainly be nice to have a three fixture set that is controlled through only one of them. I'm sure that they're made in some way different to prevent cheapskates like me from doing exactly this though Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Here's a silly question. Is it possible to do some sort of diy to wire ever grow fixtures together? Here's my perfect scenario: Get two d2040's and one it2060. Connect the 2040's so they're controlled by the 2060's programmable controller screen thingy. As you might be able to tell by use of word "thingy" my knowledge of wiring and circuitry is very limited haha Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Looking at it, the kit seems to come with mean well drivers standard. Or are those not the right kind? Also, would this be enough to light up a 72" tank? I was looking at the rapidled kits for a 180 gallon tank and they don't seem to be at all cost effective even if I cut out the heat sink cost and make a similar one to Jason's Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

+100 to that advice. I replaced a part of the intake and a part of the output hose with clear hose that I can just replace if it ever gets too dirty. It's ridiculously quiet now. I can still hear the pump, but just barely. The whole system is almost silent now. THANK YOU! And the best part is that the whole replacement was $30. Much better than buying a new pump Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks for all the advice so far. Granted now I'm even more unsure than before but it's good not to be ruling out evergrows. I haven't even heard of light movers before, that was an interesting idea. I don't think I can do it just because of serious lack of overhead space on the tank. Jason, I'm not going to lie, when I posted this I was really hoping that you would pitch in and talk about your setup. That's exactly what I'm considering if I go the diy route. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks, I'll check them out. Customer service is way more important than people realize.. Yeh I've been told I can have 3 d120's or 2040's. Thing is, the cheapest ones (without the controller monitor thingie) are akin to buying an expensive steak and having to eat it with your hands tied behind your back. The controllability is important. Haha, no thanks. I'm definitely switching to led's. Just not sure which ones. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

QR has a 10% off livestock discount I got just last week. On a side note, shouldn't water be classified as livestock? There's totally live bacteria in there!

I want to switch to led's but I'm having some problems with what exactly I should do. I've been told and retold that the best thing I can do on a very limited budget is to buy the ever grow led's off of eBay or a group buy and be happy ever after. By very limited budget I mean I want to spend the least amount possible on very good lights. And I know that it's actually possible to do so without needing to move my fish tank under the nearest bridge and sleeping in it. I've been comparing three options. Ever grow Reef builders Diy something. First question was: is ever grow actually worth it? After some research, I'm starting to lean with not at all. Here's what I see. Ever grow led: cheapest unit that's assembled as long as that's all you want. No customer service that IS REQUIRED to follow any set standard. The is required is very important. Will they will take care of you when the fixture breaks? They might. Or might not. What are you gonna do? Go to china and fix their attitude? Reefbreeder led: cheapest fixture that I've found that doesn't come with the above problem. Only ~20ish more than the cheapest evergrow fixture. I can't speak for quality. Diy kits such as rapid led: way cheaper than either of those two. Most can be apex or rk controllable with minimal effort as well. Require a much more involved thought process than any pre-made kit for obvious reasons. Some kits require soldering and some just plug and play. However! Let's be frank here. Anyone that reads this thread is trying to save money. If you didn't, what do you care? Get the latest and greatest from Neptune systems and have yourself a fancy time watching some awesome effects. But I (and about 70% of this forum) can't afford that. In fact, I'd love to spend the least amount possible on the best possible led light .. Thing? So I want some input. Anyone know of something I've missed? Or have something to save ever grow lights that I didn't mention? For some side info. The tank I'm going to be lighting is a 210 gal 28" tall 24" wide 72" long tank. Mixed reef. Right now it's being lit up by a PC / MH unit. I know i can have a whole led kit for the tank for less than it will take to replace the bulbs. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Still reading... That 130 cube is amazing Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That's the thing though. A trickle. How long would it take to process 300g of water? Or am I wrong with how this works? Does it matter how fast the water goes through something like this? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk