Djplus1

How many of you go through the hassle of COMPLETELY breaking down your RODI systems? By this, I mean, remove all piping, fittings, etc from the canister and cleaning them out or straight up replacing them? Reason I ask is because I recently had a leak from my "Y" hose adapter to my washer and RODI and had to replace it and also decided to replace the washer hoses. Both the Adapter and the threaded fittings going into the washer were CAKED with random water deposits, so much that it caused the leak in the adapter and also virtually closed off the cold water intake to my washer (I'm not sure if my clothes were even able to get cold water, lol). My guess is if my water can clog up big hoses for the washer, I assume that I may be having some problems with all of those tiny JG fittings on the RODI. I plan on taking the whole thing apart in the next couple of weeks when I replace all the filters.

Just an FYI, but regarding the fully submerged PH probe, if you look around the internet, you'll find that the probe damage itself is not a real issue, but that the wire will suck saltwater into the Apex and fry your controller, so definitely don't submerge your probe starting right now.

All of those and then some. I have never seen the angel nip at any of my coral, and I don't feed that often either (every 1.5-2.5 days).

All angels are a crapshoot. A bunch of people here keep Flame Angels with no problem. I had one too, but it died when I had a rock collapse. I currently have a Pygmy Cherub Angel and he doesn't nip at anything, including a tasty clam.

Does ATI provide a generic "universal" power supply with their lights? If yours melted like that it means that there are improperly sized resistors inside and that could easily lead to a fire. Find a better power supply.

Hey Ryan, I posted something like this a while back also. I still have about 1/2 of a package and the only reason I'm still using it, is because my copperband actually eats it. Most of the big chunks get tugged at for a bit and then all the fish lose interest as the stuff falls into the rock work for the cleaner shrimp. I find spending a premium on frozen foods for my CUC to eat is a little excessive, so I'm going back to Rod's and feeding Scott711's homemade stuff. As far as the copperband goes, hopefully he'll eat the Rod's, but if not he eats PE Mysis from my hand.

Google yields the Atlanta Reef Club

Do you mean a uninterrupted power supply?

As title says. Any chance there happens to be a group buy going on right now?

Depending on your level of insurance, you could be covered or not covered for tank damage to house. Higher level insurance that covers "all perils" will cover everything that's not specifically excluded (like government actions or war). If you go for the "cheapest coverage you got", you get covered for NAMED perils, meaning that everything that your policy states, your covered for, but nothing else. Do yourself a favor and look over the policy and make sure that your policy is open peril and that the aquarium is not excluded specifically., especially after the inspection and the pictures taken. P.S. I sell insurance also, so if you're not going to be covered, talk to me and I'll set you up!

Oh, I forgot. I also have two AIO tanks that have corals that I don't plan on Dosing, so I would need to still buy RC at least. My assumption is using RC (along with the Kalk Stirrer) on the bigger tank will just mean I will be dosing much less, correct? There are no real negatives that I'm missing, right?

I'm actually planning on using my Kalk Stirrer still too as I already have that and Kalk is cheap, so less 2 part, right?

Option B is not in lieu of water changes. It just uses the cheapest salt out there. Is this the most cost efficient route of the two dosing scenarios?

So, I'm down to maybe 1 or 1.5 water changes of Tropic Marin salt mix after a WC last night. I've been slacking the last 3 months or so, changing once every 2.5 to 3 weeks when I usually change every week. My question is related to what kind of salt mix I should get next? Option A: I just go ahead and get another bucket of "high quality" mix like Tropic Marin or Red Sea Coral Pro and try to keep changing weekly to keep up with my elements. Option B: Lose the fancy salt and get regular IO and finally hook up my dosers that are still in the box from last year's Black Friday sale. Option C: Keep using the "high quality" salt mixes (or at least use Reef Crystals) and start dosing in addition. I assume that I can spend less on salt by using the IO, but that difference will more than be made up buying Two Part. Or I can lessen the amount of Two Part I use by using "high quality" salt or RC, right? What do you guys think?

My guess is old weak plastic. If it happened a couple times, was this latest one purchased within the last year and a half or was this just a random extra one you had laying around that could have been any age? We should all be concerned if it's only a year old as I assume that is the BRS one that everyone uses. I don't feeling like cleaning that junk up every 18 months and it seems that there is always something that needs to be "replaced" on a schedule with this hobby, lol.

Deal of the day for the next 16 hours. Get it now. Nikon D7000 for $649 \http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OJNTBGI/ref=gbsl_tit_l-1_7582_45ec9607?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_t=701&pf_rd_s=left-new-1&pf_rd_r=0TMTVN4TYHTDFYAMMPKB&pf_rd_i=20&pf_rd_p=1958457582

I look at my PH every time I walk by my Bowfront as I have the Apex display. On the other hand I run Apex Jr's on both my Biocube and Red Sea Max, both without displays or PH probes and NEVER test them.

There's one in Laurel, MD too. At least there used to be.

I'm a little confused by this thread. Are we talking about the drain lines or the return lines? It sounds like we are talking about the drains, right?

The drawing of the lucky winning ticket will be filmed and posted on Reef Savvy’s Facebook Page. I believe ticket would imply one.

Sounds like a good deal all around!

It's more of an electrical term, but it's basically the same. I have no idea on the wires your looking for though. Wish I could be more help. Can't you just bring the "gripper" to the store with you and see what fits best?

Also typically you should be describing the wire gauge in AWG (as in 16 AWG or 18 AWG) not 3/32" or 1/16".

Shot in the dark, but try Michaels or another art supply store as that stuff is basically picture frame hanging wire and they might have a better selection

I do, but I hardly ever use them because the WAMAS community is pretty solid on advice and there are meetings, so you actually know they are real people.