spankna

Its more of a crack. In terms we can all speak, its like an angry pistol shrimp. My theory again is that I only hear it for the first 5 minutes because bubbles have built up in the pump/hose and are now being dislodged then the pump cuts off.

Too funny.

Beautiful tank......I just couldn't get over the sound of the cameraman chomping on his gum. lol

I have the same experience with my AquaC Urchin. I always heard the sounds during break in and still hear the clicks for about 5 minutes after startup. My theory is that the sound is from bubbles passing through the nozzle. Is the end of the hose above the water line ingesting air?

My Randals Goby went missing for 2 weeks after putting him in my new tank. Lifted every rock to find him but nothing. A week later he and my Candy pistol shrimp were out and about. I spot most of my missing livestock when feeding.

<br /><br /><br /> +1. I run the setup zygote2k described. The valve is off a T connector over the return chamber wall. This method doesn't create head pressure on the pump.

+1. I like my ability to see.

Ashburn, VA

When my corals show a personality, Ill get rid of the fish. Sent from my GT-P7310 using Tapatalk

Beautiful. Sent from my GT-P7310 using Tapatalk

Did you use a teflon sealant? I would apply a liberal amount at all threaded connectors. Sent from my GT-P7310 using Tapatalk

I had two shipments arrive Friday. The first shipment was Neomarine salt from Marinedepot. I have read and heard only great things about the salt so I wanted to give it a try. I love Brightwell products so choosing their salt was an easy decision. Second order was from Reefcleaners. The main reason I made the order was for pods. The pod bag looked like dirty water with (2) 1/2 inch shrimp swimming around. I was expecting to see more creatures swimming but I didnt. They warn you that a 25x microscope is required to see all the pod species. I poured the entire contents of the bag in the fuge. Second item I ordered was a porcelin crab. He is tiny. I figured that I would never see him in the DT and if I did my wrasse would probably pick him off so I ended up putting him in the fuge too. Third item I ordered was a penny macroalgae and the last item was a salifert mag test. Picture below shows red macro and 1/2 shrimp from pod bag in the sump. Sent from my GT-P7310 using Tapatalk

Tank looks good thus far. I would suggest getting some sort of mechanical filtration to take out the larger detritus particles in the future. The filter floss would work if changed a few times a week. Kinda hard in that small little filter to get chaeto and floss. Might I suggest something like an Aquafuge to accomplish both. http://www.saltwatertogo.com/aquarium-filtration/aquarium-refugiums/cpr-aquafuge-2-hang-on-refugium-with-protein-skimmer-small.html Also if you don't have fish, don't run your light 8 hours or at all. It will also help with the diatoms. Sent from my GT-P7310 using Tapatalk

I have a tank I removed the light from more than a week ago and the GHA has still gotten worst. IMO, there is something providing nutrients for the GHA to grow with what little light that comes through the glass. What I was suggested is to siphon out a five gallon bucket and run it through a filter sock right back into the tank. No new water. This helps remove the algae but doesn't introduce any new trace elements like a water change may do. The mindset is that either you will knock the GHA back by removal so the chaeto wins or the GHA will finish consuming whatever is fertilizing it and die. Secondly, when I was putting up a fight in that tank, I started running my refuigm light over chaeto 2 hours before and after the tank light came on. This allowed the chaeto to start absorbing nutrients in the water prior to the DT algae. In my mind I felt like this made the GHA play catch-up to my chaeto. I personally was able to stop new growth. This is just my 2 cents. Sent from my DROID X2 using Tapatalk

You are spot on. About a 1/4 of the ATO tank is gone everynight. That gives me 3 days of use before refill. The other quarter is too low for the pump to pick up. Good call. Sent from my GT-P7310 using Tapatalk

The tank is coming along quite well. My nitrate hit 50ppm Sunday and has started coming down slowly. Between 25-50ppm now. Cant tell which color on the nitrate chart Im closer too at this point. On a side note, I saw a review for the Red Sea test today from BRS. Their test are really nice. BRS raved at how easy they are to read. They are no Hanna tester but better than my Saliferts from what I saw in the review. I also started producing skimate for the first time last night. The skimate is a dark greenish/brown liquid. No real solids. With the skimate came far less microbubbles being output from the skimmer. I would say is 80-90% less bubbles reaching the tank. I also have reduced my light cycle during the cycle. I am able to visibly see bacteria colonies on the rocks. They are yellow in color and quite visible on the white rocks. Remind me of a culture in a petri dish. Most articles I came across said this is common during the tank cycle if the light are on too long but to keep an eye open if they happen to be dinos. Sent from my GT-P7310 using Tapatalk

I just ordered myself a Tribal Blenny. They have awesome personalities. Great build. What are you using for a sump?

Im no expert but that list seems a little much. 6 tangs and 15 anthius are alot. My mistake, I overlooked the "narrowing down" part. Sent from my GT-P7310 using Tapatalk

<br /><br /><br />+1. Bought a salifert kit for each of these test and the difference was minimal. On the other hand, I do not trust APIs nitrate and phosphate test. Had one kit misread on both. Sent from my GT-P7310 using Tapatalk

Picked up some mangroves over the weekend. First stowaway in the refuigm live rock. Sent from my GT-P7310 using Tapatalk

Koralia Nanos IMO are very underpowered and the flow is over rated. I too have a 27g cube and use a Koralia Nano 420gph as a supplement to my Vortech. I use a 240gph Nano in my sump just to stir up the detritus once a week. You want the detritus to stay in the water column until the filter/skimmer pick it up. Dont just upgrade your powerhead, get another more powerful one to keep the detritus from settling. Sent from my GT-P7310 using Tapatalk

Nanotuners/Nanocustoms were the same shop. They have closed shop now. I was just making you aware that the LED strips are being used in the industry. What tank are you looking to use these on? Sent from my GT-P7310 using Tapatalk

Backside of heatsink Sent from my GT-P7310 using Tapatalk

Duo 700 Driver LED/Heatsink(unused connector for fans. Sent from my GT-P7310 using Tapatalk

NanoTuners used similar strips from Edison. The strips use 1watt LEDs. The Nanotuners setup read 600 PAR @ 2inches and 150 PAR @ 12inches directly below the setup running at 100%(my readings when tested). My setup has (2)50/50 strips and (1)actinic strip for a total of 18watts(6white/12blue). This is with no optics. In a BC 14 they work fantastic without optics. In a larger tank, I would definately use optics or 3w CREEs.