sachabballi reef

yep...good old rubbing alcohol.......and mineral spirits will get it off your fingers and hands when you are all done....

well...I have been doing some seriously strong dips each day...pretty much soaking it in straight solution for about 10 mins each day and I think it stopped...the heads were all out and eating this morning and the jelly looking disolving has disappeared....wiped out half the coral so going to have to hand feed the heads for extra energy these next few weeks...try to rebuild

I have had a beautiful acan with over 60 heads for years....I lost a little bit of it during our move from FL to NOVA in June, but it recovered well and has been growing new heads pretty rapidly. Two days ago I noticed the bottom of the acan was looking odd...the next day it started melting...and now it is halfway up the coral....It is skeletonizing...the heads are just melting in front of my eyes....I have done multiple dips....and nothing is stopping it...worst part is the rest of the heads are fine and eating etc...tomorrow I am going to have to dremmel it and try to save the last few heads...there are maybe 20 out of 60 left...I have had this coral for 5 years with nothing new added for over a month. Paremeters are steady - i use the GHL dosers and there is very little variance with anything at any given time...the only thing I added in the last week were 2 tiger striped sea stars that came with a tank I just bought...but they are reef safe and there is no way they could make the acans melt before my eyes...sigh.... anyone else go through this? I googled it and see that it is very common and can come out of the blue just like mine....so odd. I have other acans in the rank and they are fine and normal....

you can't just put new silicone over it as it won't adhere. You will need to take a straight razor and remove all the silicone from both sides, but leave the stuff in between the glass panels....and then take masking tape and tape yourself a frame up all the sides and across the bottom and then silicone inside your tape in the seams. Do small amounts as you go, as it will set fast and get a small cup of rubbing alcohol to dip your finger in and smooth out your lines. Make sure you take the tape off before it dries otherwise you will have a problem with it taking off your new seam if there is any on it. There are some great sites people have created with pictures if you google.....really step by step stuff.

i have had my RBTA for 5 years now and its awesome...it has since the day we bought it been inhabited by our gold stripe maroon clown who acted like we gave him a gift from the gods when we put it in the tank and immediately hosted to it and is rarely out of it except to eat. However...the RBTA has now grown so large, and even though he no longer moves anywhere and is happy as can be...his tentacles have now started to kill some corals....so last week we bought a new tank that will house him and only a few select other corals and fish and as soon as I repaint the stand and clean the tank today will start cycling it for his new and dedicated home....which in the end I had no real choice unless I wanted to get rid of him <gasp> so just a word to warn..just cuz they are happy and comfy doesn't mean that isn't a problem eventually too LOL Another thing is that the type of clown I have is very agressive and doesn't accept any other type of clown in his tank...so I would say steer away from them...he also attacks my hand every time I stick my hand in the tank...doesn't hurt but scares me to death every single time...he is like a pirahna...

this happened to me last year (although your outbreak is TRULY impressive ) and between emerald crabs and those humungous mexican snails (Turbos on steroids type) They got rid of it all.....quickly too. But I put about 6 of the huge ones in a 92G and 2 emeralds

thanks everyone.... should be an interesting weekend coming up LOL

i was afraid that was going to be the answer....neither stand can take a sump that large and there is no room for a sump between them either....I know...Im difficult

we are trying to figure out the best way to plumb together two tanks sitting side by side. The first is a 92G corner with sump and the second is a 72G with sump. The corner always poses a problem as there is not much room to move in the stand and because the corner faces the wall its hard to access through the back. Does anyone have good ideas on how to connect the two tanks? I would like to use one sump for equipment and the other as a fuge. thanks!!!

I always buy mine from live aquaria off ebay...they deliver super fast and its convenient and its in the bucket that is always useful.... http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=110459208621

i have the exact same issue lately and am struggling to dial in the 2 part to keep the alk high enough...it seems like everytime I think I have it I check a day or so later and its back down to 7....very frustrating, however we recently moved into NOVA and had to start the tank over again so I have a complete tank full of sps frags and they must just be using it up like mad even though everything else is stable....glad to hear I am not alone...misery DOES love company

have 2 engineer gobies in our 92....industrious little buggers....cant recommend them enough...plus they swim like an eel which is pretty cool...

ok in the end...I got sick of thinking about it non-stop and decided to stay with the DE and got the maristar 2x250w/t5 combo and went with the phoenix 14k de and 2 super actinics by UVL with galaxy dual hqi ballasts. I really hope i made the right choice...but I think the reflectors are good ones...the MH has reef optix and the t5 has tek. will let you know once I fire it up....

i use the 150w de 20k radiums now but was thinking of switching to the phoenix 14k 250w. So if i got se should i also switch to electronic ballasts? currently using magnetic

I am trying to upgrade my fixture from 2 150w de mh to 2 250w mh. I have a corner tank, however, and need to have a 36" fixture. I am trying to get an all in one unit with mh, t5 and moon. The problem I am having is switching out from de to se. I have read so many conflicting things...some say no difference at all some say de is much higher par etc...debatable I am sure...I am just wondering if anyone out there has actually made the switch and were they happy or wished they hadn't done it? I can do a hamilton unit but it is SE or a maristar DE... any help would be appreciated...