LCDRDATA

The current link is http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2096816. It "only" goes back to 2011 (previous splits go back at least another five years), and the most recent posts are on Page 241 .

If it makes you feel any better, on Reef Central there's a ginormous thread on this subject with the primary guru being the "Grim Reefer" -- the combination is pretty close to the recommendations I got for my 8-bulb T-5 unit.

If you want to give some of those ideas a try, I have the better part of a case of slightly used 6500K T-5s I got from another WAMAS member; you're welcome to a couple of bulbs, no charge.

I don't have experience, but given the nature of the product I suspect it would kill any arthropod/crustacean inverts in your system (shrimp, crabs, good "pods"), at a minimum. Probably any worms as well, including feather dusters (of all sizes) and bristleworms. The only in-reef-tank product I've ever used with any success is Ruby Reef's "Kick Ich," and mixed success at that. They have another product ("Rally"?) that's supposed to be reef-safe -- by itself or with Kick-Ich -- but I had a major tank crash shortly after trying it several years ago. To be fair, I was already having some significant issues in the tank or I wouldn't have tried it, so the relationship with the crash could be anything from none whatsoever to directly causal. Unfortunately, with sick fish in a reef tank, generally about all you can do, other than remove them to a hospital setup (itself sometimes more stressful/damaging than the disease) is maintain optimum parameters and feeding and hope the animal's immune system is up to doing the rest.

There are no wraps; the water completely surrounds and flows past a quartz sleeve that runs the complete length of the unit's center. At only 214 GPH, it would seem the velocity is low enough to give sufficient contact time. You can click on the link in the original post for more info.

Algae and disease (bacterial) reduction primarily. The unit is rated for 90,000 uw/cm2 at 214 GPH, or about what an MJ900 puts out (if the unit isn't plumbed directly inline to the inlet). If I'm not mistaken, that's enough to kill everything up to moderately hardy parasites.

I thought of that, but we've been redoing our closets/storage and I can't find mine. It's also a very basic one and so might not do the job even if I find it.

When upgrading my 55 FOWLR to a 90, I had to move my inline UV sterilizer - an Aqua UV Advantage 8W - and noted it was time to replace the bulb. Long story short, the new bulb doesn't seem to work, but it's unclear whether the problem is the bulb or the transformer / power supply, although I'm leaning toward the latter. Does anyone in the NoVa area have a transformer / power supply for this sterilizer that I could borrow to determine which component of my unit is faulty? Given that the replacement part is half the price of a complete new unit I want to be sure that's really the problem before I do anything else. Thanks!

I've had some nasty hair algae a couple of times, and it seemed the only snails that would eat it were Mexican turbos - no other snail (including other turbo varieties) would touch it. Pincushion and tuxedo urchins help some, but will pick up and carry off anything small that isn't nailed down and will do some bulldozing as well. I've looked on and off at hairy chitons; they're reputed to do a good job if they survive the initial shipping and acclimation/settling in period.

I ran my T5s on a 12-hour light cycle with the first bank (two, in this case) coming on for two hours, all bulbs for eight, and then back to the first bank only for the final two hours. Assuming your first bank is the two outermost bulbs, I would recommend the following sequence (front to back): 1: Aquablue Special 2: Blue Plus 3: Purple Plus 4: Midday 6000 5: Aquablue Special 6: Blue Plus

I would also like a group (10-12), if they're not all committed yet.

We decided the very large RBTA in the display tanks needed to move, since it had killed all the corals over a large piece of real estate and seemed destined to continue annexing new territory. So we put in in my cube, and after several hours it started wandering, which was expected. What was not expected was that it would find a way to get caught in the intake of the HOB refugium pump. I was monitoring its travels, and in the ~15 minutes between observations it went from fine to shriveled, and the tank looks as though someone poured a pint of milk into it. I performed about a 30% water change and added a large flow-through carbon module to the 'fuge. That's been about an hour and a half, and there doesn't seem to be much progress clearing the tank. Any thoughts?

I thought I remembered something like that, and with a little web research on my own I'm pretty sure that's what it is. How would you suggest getting what I can collect to you? Will you be at the meeting next Saturday?

I'm trying to remember how to distinguish bryopsis from other GHA varieties, but I've got one tank that's (unfortunately) got a bumper crop of something at the moment, and you're welcome to all you want!

Make sure you let us know the broadcast date!

My wife says, <<You should put "That's what my wife said.">> She says she can handle the snake for a few days. Far be it for me to contradict my resident wildlife biologist. So I guess no extra tank required. Thanks all!