bankyf

This one actually has some good information and is one of my only issues with LED's. Somewhat hard to believe it is coming from the same place. http://blog.captive-aquatics.com/captive_aquatics/2010/11/comparing-leds-theyre-not-metal-halides.html

Interesting how so many people can bash a product that has not even been released and they have not actually touched or seen. I have had my issues with ecotech, but overall they really are one of the better companies out there for innovative/quality products with a pretty good customer service to back it up. Here is the first "official" negative review I have seen: http://blog.captive-aquatics.com/captive_aquatics/2011/09/ecotech-marines-radion-xr30-led-light-a-swing-and-a-miss.html Essentially I take this to say that he thinks it is junk(all without ever even seeing the fixture), but so is every other fixture on the market, and especially the DIY fixtures. Ecotech and LED haters are coming out of the woodwork for this one which tends to make me think that everyone must consider this light a serious threat to the lighting market. I'M IN, PLACING MY PRE-ORDER NOW!!!

Video! http://www.mrsaltwatertank.com/pumps-glue-and-now-leds/?utm_source=feedburner&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=Feed%3A+mrsaltwatertank+%28mrsaltwatertank%29

Until now I would have agreed with Roni on the t5 statement. I think this fixture has changed that.

Green was added to allow full spectral output. Their theory is that we will be able to replicate the spectral output of any metal halide bulb (or the look that is most appealing to us. There are even plans to facilitate a file sharing section of their website so that you could download the profile for your favorite M/H bulb or share files with your buddy. This fixture is somewhat of a game changer in the LED market.

It was expanded and did not glue well. I have never seen what you are talking about, but I suspect it would be much easier to glue. The polystrene may be rigid enough. The thickest I could get is 1/4", but if you eurobraced it and didn't go too big it might work. I am not sure what to use to glue it either. The 1/4" polystyrene costs me about 2/3 of what the sheet of acrylic does, but weighs about 10% more.

I used PVC sheets quite a bit in the sign industry. It is not nearly as rigid as acrylic for it's thickness and a little harder to get good leak free glue joints. I did build a tray out of 1/2" PVC for the bottom of my stand to contain leaks and spils. It saved me from spilling water on the carpet on many occasions. Polystyrene is a good rigid alternative, but it is much denser/heavier, and more expensive than PVC. If I had felt that either could have worked as a sump, I probably would have tried it.

Hanna has acknowledged that this kit is difficult for the average person to obtain accurate results. Previously they suspected the RODI water that we use may not be clean enough, but they now believe that the problem may be the accurate measurement of .1ml of sample. They are currently working on a resolution and made it clear that they will take care of all customers when have the problem resolved, just like they did with the alkalinity kit.

While I am sure BRK appreciates the recommendation to visit their store, I don't believe it is appropriate to direct someone to an online non-sponsor vendor within the forum that they pay for.

I have not seen the pro series yet, but par is disappointing to say the least on the regular panorama modules.

My house is a mess. My baby (700 rwhp cobra that stays in the garage under a cover) was damaged by tools falling off of a shelf. The Solana moved 2" across its stand, rockwork collapsed and gfi tripped on it and another tank. Tanks had no power for about 3 hours... Time will tell if everything is alright.

I tested using my rodi and got 600. Bought some distilled water and got 495. That is still a little higher than my Lamotte kit. I need to try to find some lab grade di water locally. The problem is that the test uses 9ml of rodi water and .1 ml of sample water, so just the slightest trace of calcium in your rodi sends the results through the roof.

Skimate collection container. The ping pong ball shuts of the air outflow when the container is full which will reduce skimming so it won't overflow. I don't think the parts on top actually belong there

Glad to here it. I new they would come through for you eventually.

I guess they don't appreciate my business? I have spent close to a thousand with them and no email Too bad I just ordered some more leds last week.

Order the seals straight from reeflo. Their website is horrible, but they are great people to talk to on the phone, very helpful. I am pretty sure the seals come with instructions. It helps if you have a press, but not difficult at all.

The acrylic could also be painted on the back or covered with vinyl to block all light.

If anyone is interested in diving for Meg teeth off the coast of NC or Meg teeth and various other fossils in Charleston, SC let me know. I try to go several times a year. These are advanced dives. NC is over 100ft deep. SC is closer to 40 or 50 feet with very low visibility and high current.

Your welcome to come down and clean the tank and pretend that is still yours anytime you want.

Maybe I should use it to help sell the extra Solana I have.

The ACIII has a variable speed pump module that may or may not be able to be used for dimming.

I even had one get sucked into the foam cover on an MP10. I removed the foam with him attached and he eventually removed himself with no damage, but it can happen.

I have had bta's eaten by a korallia. On thing I did that seemed to work is building a cage out of the plastic canvas used for needlepoint(or something like that) held together with zipties around the korallia. It cut down flow a bit, but never had a problem with btas getting sucked in again.

I think it is probably to late to cancel. But maybe we can still work something out.

If you had only said something yesterday in our PM's... I orderd my solana last night. Any want to buy a new solana?