chucelli

I didn't have long term success with those MJ mods either.. Either the tabs broke or the mods actually broke the powerhead (pushed through the back).

I want to build this to supply additional blue supplementation instead of using T5s. I am a glitter junkie and want to avoid fluorescents at all costs. Anything wider than a thin strip will not fit next to my halides comfortably.

Just FYI, If the load calculations are not calculated correctly into the design of the load-bearing structures, failure will be swift. Aluminum does not warn you like wood or steel does. It will most likely crack and snap.

That's the same place I got a quote from. I think the cost was due to me wanting 48" in one piece. I wanted it in one piece to minimize the hassles of hanging multiple pieces. Perhaps I could get smaller pieces and connect them...

forgot the link! http://www.rapidled.com/servlet/StoreFront

Guys, check this site out. They sell DIY sets which require minimal work (no resistors) since they are paired in perfect numbers to existing power supplies (12 per). They include focusing lenses with your choice of 40, 60, or 80 degree spread output. These are 3 watt Cree X-Lamps. I wanted to purchase the 24 DIY kit except with all blues (prefect blue wavelength 450-460), but I'm still looking for a suitable heatsink or related mounting material. The latest quote I got for some heatsinks for this application was quite expensive. $115 for some custom cut 48" x 1" strips. If anyone is interested and wants to share the cost of the heatsinks with me, or if you know of a cheaper place for heatsinks or similar let me know!

Just to clarify further.. There is a definite perceived difference in color when using different color bulbs, as well as an absolute color once the coral has had time to adapt and grow under the light.

Interceptor dip is the only effective dip against redbugs. Iodine based solutions simply slow them down enough to detach, but ones hanging on to or inside retracted polyps will reemerge once in your display. I've never heard of the gel type, but would think it most certainly would work better if it dissolves in seawater. I've run into problems after Interceptor dips (crushed tab) when reintroducing corals back into the display. Tiny undissolved particles made it back into the display and killed off my hermits. The only advice I have when using tabs is to crush the tabs VERY well and rinse the frag or colony VERY thoroughly in clean seawater before reintroducing back into display.

Let's just clarify this whole "natural" or "true" color argument. If you guys have ever been diving on a reef, you'll see that coral colors are nothing like what they look like in our aquariums. It's all a matter of preference. Most like their corals to pop and be florescent in color, while that may not necessarily be "natural", it IS definitely more colorful than it appears on a wild reef. I've never seen a florescent colored coral on a reef. Most are beige, cream, olive, etc... reds look more like brown or black more than 15 feet under the water surface. The brightest color I've noticed is probably pink. While 10k does come closest to natural sunlight, there definitely is color loss when compared to corals grown accustomed to lighting that's heavy in the actinic range. Nate has come pretty good examples in his tanks. Since color loss is relative, you can't really conclude there is no loss of color when you are not comparing it to anything, as in zygote2k's picture of Reefhunter's tank.

I'm using it to dose Kalk. Set it and forget it. I check the sump water level once a week when I clean my skimmer to make sure evaporation rates match dosing rate. I currently can adjust my alk/cal demands by tweaking kalk strength. You could use it to dose two part easily, but for some reason I notice better results with kalk.

I don't think there is any problem with using pickling lime, as impurities settle out by nature when mixing kalk. However, there are definitely different grades of Kalk. Better formulations waste less in that it dissolves more completely, leaving less sediment, which I would assume to contain impurities. IME, Kent Kalk does not dissolve very well, while Brightwell's Kalk+2 seems to dissolve extremely well, but I doubt that the +2 mag and strontium actually get into the tank, as calcium hydroxide will probably cause them to precipitate out of solution.

It seems that we all have different definitions of what "success" means when keeping livestock. I would like to hear from people who have successfully kept a shoal of 8+ chromis for at least 3-4 years without experiencing any steady declines. And out of those who have "success" how many times you feed per day and what other factors you think has contributed to your long term success. Also, I think most here are using the term schooling very loosely, as Dave pointed out, schooling behavior is not possible in your average captive aquarium.

Are you sure you're not referring to Cardinals liking to be fed at night?

the only problem with the feeding theory is that what I've noticed is that the smaller weaker ones will get bullied by the larger ones and are the first to disappear or die off. The biggest one will usually survive till the end unless it carpet surfs.

The problem is there doesn't seem to be much data relating to how long groups can be maintained without losses. You say you had them for a year then added 4 more. Are the 9 still with you today?

for how long? and how many times did you feed them per day?

Is it the lack of feeding or is it their aggression towards each other that kills them off? I always thought it was aggression that slowly kills them off slowly. I've tried on 3 separate occasions to keep a shoal of them, but within two years, I'm always left with 2 or 3. I would love to try again now that I have an auto feeder dispensing 4 times a day. However, my wife would be skeptical. She thinks they're aggressive suicidal maniacs.

hatch they will. This has happened several times in my display, and weeks after I notice little tiny ceriths (3-4mm in length) in high detritus areas. I haven't seen them recently however. It could be that they get eaten by fish when they get to that size? dunno

if you adjust your skimmer to skim wetter, your skimmer will stay clean longer and operate at peak efficiency longer. Skimmers definitely work better when clean, as the bubble integrity holds longer when rising through a clean surface.

Thanks, I posted a message on the Tunze forum at RC. I don't have spare, so I figure it would be faster if someone local had a piece laying around...

This is a hard question to reply to since color preference and perception is very subjective. I can tell you for sure the 14k bulbs have peaks in the blue giving you a more bluish light. I can't tell you if the 20k will be too blue, but I can tell you that the 20k will look dimmer in comparison to bulbs of lower color temps. I currently run 2 20k and 1 10k in the middle. When all three are on, the color is almost perfect for my preference. In general the lower the temp, the more PAR you will be getting, hence better growth. PAR goes down when the color temp is either too high or too low. A 10k bulb of the same wattage will give you more PAR than a 20K of the same wattage. 14k in theory should give you more PAR than 20k but less than 10k. Hope that helps.

Does anyone here have any Tunze parts laying around (spare/not in use/you do not want any longer)? I was having problems with one of my pumps and when I took it apart I realized it was missing one of these (brakes). I believe most of the Tunzes share this same part. This specific pump is the 6080 non-controllable model. If anyone close to me has this laying around, please let me know. Thanks!

I would not go to congressional if it was the last place on earth. They perform some very shady business, including but not limited to: -selling dyed anemones, -selling sick fish, (but you can't tell because they keep a steady level of copper in their fish tanks) -misinforming customers, ie: telling noobs that scooter blennies WILL eat frozen foods. -selling questionable livestock, ie: shark eggs, unknown nudibranches (diet unknown, bound to starve.) -more expensive than other area LFS. I would check out Tropical Lagoon if I were you. They have some of the best prices and sometimes get very interesting items in. Plus, if you deal with the owner (Steve), he will usually make some kind of deal for you if you purchase multiple items. Their fish are some of the healthiest around IME. Good luck on your move.

agreed, Also, I hope he is ok with the sell-off of his tank stuff.. It wouldn't be good if there are any problems after the transactions take place.

Definitely drill the tank. It will save you lots of headache and worry later, not to mention reduced maintenance. There are many ways to drill the tank also. You might want to research that. The bottoms are tempered most of the time. Depending on the volume of water you are moving in and out of the display, you may not need to build an overflow either. Two simple drains will suffice and it will be infinitely more quiet than boxes. Also, extreme_tooth_decay's advice is right on, don't build your system around this tank, since it really is a small drop in a VERY large bucket. Get exactly what you want. It will be harder and less efficient to upgrade later.