chucelli

Another benefit to a more open, less rock approach that should not to be overlooked is in the area of flow. Dead spots are minimized in more open designs. One can simply add more pumps at the expense of aesthetics (subjective of course). -R

I don't use buckpucks, but I know you can avoid an extra power supply for the fans, since you can run it off the same power supply that runs the LEDs. I am using Meanwells. While they are reliable, I have to use a dedicated power supply for the fans. This makes wiring kind of a pain... -R

BTW, as far as I can tell, the only component which is an addition or different than builds found on nanoreef, and RC, is the use of the DB9 connector. I have to look for a cheaper supplier online, as RadioShack is a bit expensive. Here are some actinic pics I took when only the center blues were on: side shot with center actinic on only. exposure was short to preserve clarity. It is much brighter in reality. top down actinic No post processing was made. The reds/pinks are really that. -Robert

here you go.. copy pasted from my RC thread: This project was a culmination of 3 months (weekends) experimentation with different parts and combinations. The most recent units were built with materials I bought in bulk months ago. I don't have time to search through the various invoices to gather part numbers. I can however, give you a list of vendors from which I acquired parts. The following is a list of items needed to build this unit: -Heatsink: Heatsinkusa.com The size I used for the latest build was ≈6" X 8.5", with fins running on the longside. I purchased some 17" stock and cut them down to size. -Aluminum flat bar used for fan mount and connectors: HomeDepot -0.25 inch Self tapping stainless screws (sizing is something like 3/38 thread) This was a major source of headache for me, because I had originally found some screws at a local hardware store which worked beautifully, but could not figure out the correct scale measurements. It would have been nice if everything was metric. -Nylon washers for "M2" screw MCMaster.com I also purchased the aluminum channel from them. -Cree Royal Blue and Q4 cool white LEDs -Meanwell non-dimmable drivers LEDsupply Rapidled Both of which I've had good experiences. As far as pricing is concerned, I think it they are about the same. However, I like how Rapidled sells packages now which contain almost everything you need to complete an array. -cooling fans These are just case fans from Newegg.com. 80mm fans for the Gen2 build, 120mm for the original prototype. -DB9 connectors male/female Radio Shack. I know there are cheaper places online, I just haven't gotten around to finding them yet... -wires for LED I used a 24 gauge solid copper wire roll I had from a previous project. I think it was purchased from RadioShack. tip on that: the wire shielding needs to be strong, as fishing the wires in and out and around the heatsink can cause problems with the jacket if you're not careful or are not using quality wires. That's it! I think I've spent more time experimenting than actual building. But all the experience gained from trial and error definitely makes the actual build much easier. -Robert

Thanks guys.. Luceneck, same coverage as first unit. As you can see, the actual LED arrangement is almost identical. The heatsink is smaller. Jack, this is the Gen2 unit, what you saw was the Gen1 first prototype. It was twice the size! -R

Justin, you are close by, let me know if you want to stop by to check out these units in action! I would love to check out your coral farm sometime... -Robert

After the first prototype was built and testing completed, I set out to build a few more. I realized that the first build was over-engineered in the cooling department and only half of the original heatsink was needed, so I designed the Gen2 with that in mind. The advantage is that the pendent is half the size of the original while putting out identical output. Here are some pics of the second build... I did not have a free hand, so it was difficult for me to document as well as I wanted.. but it does show how much work is involved with prepping the heatsink (my least favorite part). Cutting main stock to size: completed cut: jagged edges to be finished: a template was created to facilitate the building of multiple units: drilling the 72 holes needed to mount LEDs for each unit. Mount holes complete: polishing surface for better LED/heatsink mating: fan mounts are cut and refinished: mounting begins: mounting complete and soldering begins: finished and hung on rails over display: The orginal prototype on the left and the Gen2 on the right: I mounted all pendents on wheels so they can be moved if needed: another FTS... All exposures were lowered to prevent washout, hence the seemingly dark surroundings: These have been over the display for almost two weeks now. I have read from most on RC using Cree emitters that it seems to put out more light than expected. I think my PAR readings reinforce that. As such, I am slowly acclimating the display to these lights with very short cycles. All three pendents overlap no more than ≈3 hours a day, and they are staggered so that there is light on the display for 11.5 hours a day. So far, all corals seem to be responding favorably with new tips, and in the case of the plating montis, more folds are developing, and surface is becoming more textured. As far as costs are concerned, I find it a moot point when you consider the costs of MH bulb replacement. In my case, I replace bulbs every six months as I find that output decreases dramatically by then and spectrum changes. I notice because my corals almost stop growing. At 3x250, that's at least $210 per year. Nevermind the shock the corals have to go through each time I change bulbs. Temperature: My display used to increase anywhere for 2-4˚F during the day when the halides are on, causing unavoidable temp fluctuations. Now, there is no fluctuation. AT ALL. Frankly, I don't understand the apprehension with LED technology. It is here and ready now. Costs are not higher than a comparable MH system when considered over 3 years (fixture/ballast and bulb replacement costs) less if you are using HQI pendents, as they tend to be more expensive. Environmental impacts: In addition to using only a fraction of the energy of any other reef lighting available to us, these emitters have a projected lifetime of 11 years running around 12 hours a day before light output decreases to 70% of original output. They contain no toxic materials, unlike florescents and MH, which contain mercury and other toxic materials. I encourage anyone with the means to try this. You will be pleasantly surprised. Also, I want to add that these pictures really don't capture the quality of light these LEDs output. It has to be seen in person! -Robert

yes, that is a DB9 connection It allows up to four channels (blues, whites, fan, aux).

I'm not sure to which LEDs you are referring, but these have no internal reflectors. The chip is a two dimensional square less than 2mm in diameter. Light output from this tiny squarish plane is 180˚. If the chip was mounted on a reflective surface, it would not benefit from a reflector sitting behind the chip. Optics designed for this application are mounted within ≈120˚ field and contain a built-in reflector and lens. The amount of light lost with the use of optics are insignificant relative to the amount that would otherwise end up being on the walls of the room when run without optics. In any case, optics are not necessary as many early users have discovered that their systems needed to be turned down or mounted higher due to the intensity of these LEDs. However, optics definately gives you cleaner and stronger output. -R

sorry, I meant Glasscages, not Glassbox.

LEDs do not have reflectors built into them. Most have some sort of lens to protect the actual chip and roughly focus the light output to around 120˚. Optics concentrate the light by incorporating reflectors behind lenses. This data sheet shows the difference 60˚ optics makes on light output of these LEDs: www.cree.com/Products/pdf/XLampXR-ESecondaryOptics.pdf Also if you see my PAR readings table, you will see that optics serve a very real purpose. As for dimming LEDs, it is not as simple as attaching a 12v circut dimmer switch. These power supplies operate anywhere from 24v to 48v DC for starters... Also, LEDs require constant current in order to run properly. I suggest reading the very comprehensive RC thread for more information. -R

Anyone here have any experience with any rimless tank vendors? (Not Glassbox). I've heard too many horror stories about their tanks and service. I know there are good experiences out there as well, but in general, the accounts are too varied for me to take that kind of risk. It seems that in Europe and Asia (and pretty much the whole rest of the world), rimless tanks are available as part of the standard fare... Here, it seems that it's a pretty big deal if you can get your hands on one. The closest that I know of to the Metro DC area is Miracles in Ontario Canada, but I don't know what sorts of shipping/import/duty costs may be involved. Any input from rimless owners appreciated. -Robert

they look good to me.... I like how they have various kit packages for all sorts of DIYs. Shipping should be faster as well since they are based in the US. -R

I don't want to clog this thread up with patent talk. Their patent claim is based on "their idea" of using a light source they did not invent for the specific purpose of growing marine life. The only thing they did was make an enclosure and controller for LEDS and did not "invent" anything new. If anyone wants to read more about this, the following links are for your reading pleasure. Orbitec vs. PFO lawsuit: http://www.reefbuilders.com/wp-content/upl.../p-o08-220p.pdf Orbitec's patent: http://www.google.com/patents?id=mwWAAAAAE...ne+aquarium+LED Topics relating to Orbitec can be discussed in a separate thread if so desired In other news... Array12 coming soon! (designed for sunbathing your cat or dog, but works well on your reef aquarium also) Just noticed you had already posted the links Boret

I think it's a hit or miss with fish. None of my three tangs eat hair algae.

is it just the physical irritant of the bristles or is there some type of toxin in the bristles? Every time I get poked, my skin turns red and burns. I tried soaking in full strength vinegar a couple times to no avail.

next time, you could just use some RO water. Works the same.

Boret, There are no patent laws being broken, as the patent only applies to LEDs being commercialized very specific applications. There are no laws against providing a service or building your own. -R

If anyone is questioning whether this array will grow SPS, or have any doubts about SPS color, here's a vid of "soundwave's" tank one year later under these LEDs. He's not even using optics.

Thanks AV8. Boret, those prices for optics seem good to me. Make sure they are Cree optics, as I would think they work best with their LEDs. From what I understand, the blues were the questionable ones from dealextreme. Make sure what you are getting are the "Royal Blue" 450nm peak LEDs. These LEDs have been used successfully in the horticulture industry and provides the correct spectrum for photosynthesis. -R

If you read the RC thread fully, there is a discussion on dealextreme. Bin numbers are important when purchasing LEDs. That is the only way to ensure the correct spectrum and brightness. -R

found another link if anyone wants to attempt a DYI http://www.wheresmydrink.com/2009/05/led-s...C%20Jacks/Plugs

Bob, the in-water readings are highlighted in aqua, and yes, they were taken with 40˚ optics for practical purposes. It illustrates minimal if any loss of PAR when penetrating up to 2 feet of water. Readings similar to out-of-water measurements can be expected using any of the available optics. davelin, you are right about spotlighting being used in Japanese reef tanks for a while now. The highly directional nature of this type of spotlighting is different than conventional lighting (MH, T5), which means corals which have been grown under conventional lighting will need to adapt. Smaller frags or colonies which have not taken on any specialized shape will grow to utilize more direct lighting. As with any lighting, many variables come to play when talking about shading, since BB tanks will naturally have more shade due to the lack of a reflective sand bottom. Multiple units can be mounted at different angles to ensure proper coverage. This current unit has this feature built into the design, as the three mounting points can be adjusted to provide light output at different angles. Building units which output light at a predetermined angle (ie. shaped aluminum) is not practical for anything but the most customized applications, since many times users will upgrade tanks, add additional lighting, make various other changes, etc.. I think trying to make LED lighting work like conventional MH or T5 lighting is totally missing the point. The highly directional nature of LED lighting opens up a whole new array of lighting techniques/methodologies.... Acquascaping especially can benefit from the vast flexibility. Perhaps we can finally begin to move away from the traditional fruit stand arrangements, and put light only where we need it. -Robert

This is probably one of the most comprehensive threads about LED lighting. It also includes a parts list http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1587273 Although his build did not include optics, it can be found at the same vendor as the LEDs. -R

thanks Davelin. I will create a post in the FS section.