cabrego

very nice, what lens did you shoot these with?

I want in if we decide to get a group build going..`

http://www.coralpedia.com/index.php?module=Gallery2&g2_itemId=100 oops heres a better link...

Thanks for the link, what about ring of fire.... http://www.coralpedia.com/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=166&g2_serialNumber=3

Here is another shot to get a bit better perspective..when they are on the glass they look like specs of coraline algae...

yeah i am sure, I bought the your old JBJ UV sterilizer and a couple of frags of these guys. They have grown quite a bit! I never really consider fire and ice, because they usually have blue somewhere on them, but anything is possible.

Not sure if you noticed but the babies are actually on a full size momma snail. So they are about 1/8 inch wide at the most.

Just messing around with a 40+ year old lens!

Bought these from GMUBeach about a year ago, they were tiny 3 headed frags at the time. how about orange julius

Holy cow! I have been fighting cyano over the last week or so and one of my techniques in reducing it is to kill the lights for most of the day. I did this for two days this week and yesterday when I turned on the lights I noticed snails all over the glass. Today upon further inspection I noticed they all appear to be Astraea snails! I can't explain what caused the snails to lay eggs and I know nothing about how long they take to hatch, so it could have happed before I suppose. This is very sprising since I have actually lost a couple of other species snails (maybe Astraea too) and I have noticed Astraea toppled over a whole lot more than ususual so I assumed they were stressed out. I have been slowly reaisng the alk by about 1 dkh pwer week over the last 3 weeks and dosing more calcium than usual. I guess they are not stresse out after all?! In any event, I here is a pic of what I shot today with the cam. We will see if they can survive my 6 line. What do you think, are they Astraea?

When I harvest I am straining the water back into the bucket so, I am not actually putting fresh water back in...do you actually do water changes?

OK, I might be a bit dramatic but for hte life of me poor percula fry I can not maintain a Rotifer culture for longer than 2-4 weeks. The sad part is my perc's laid the biggest clutch I have seen, I have my laravasnagger working great, and now I have no ROTS (culture just crashed again!) and the fry will hatch in about 3 days! I was hoping some of the experts can share their routine on how they go about avoiding rotifer crashes! My routine WAS working....rots are in a 5 gallon bucket: 1. Temp 78 2. Salinity 1.018 3. Feed nano in the morning with a drop of Prime 4. Feed fry in the morning when applicable. 5. Harvest close about a third every other day. 6. View rots under microscope at least once a week. I did best when I did not do water changes or much topping off. Should I be doing water changes everyday or something, ROTs are harder than the fry for me!

In my experience (which is only a few months) the female generally leaves the clutch more often than the male. But it is common for them to be gone for short periods of time. If the male is not tending to the eggs most of the time, I would suspect something is not right with my clutch/pair. In my case the male never leaves the clutch for longer than 30 seconds (and probably closer to 20) I believe this holds true when the lights are out, but I have not closely watched. If they are tending to the eggs normally when the lights are on I would not be as worried... I can't say if the anemone would harm the eggs, but I doubt it...Do you have rots?

Have you checked nitrites? How is the fish breathing? Any signs of ich? The fish sounds like she's definitely stressed out..sounds like it's eating nothing'? You need to get it to eat something, maybe live brine?

You are welcome to come by...let me know.

If you can do it, do youself a favor and get an ac jr. You won't regret it...

Are you selling just 175 Watt bulbs? if so are they new? color? age?

I don't know if it helps but I have a ton of mysis or mysid (shrimp not sure what the diff is)in all parts of my tank including, over flow, fuge, and especially behind my foam wall, the space behind he wall is like a fuge in it self. I am not sure how they got there, or what I am doing to breed them ...

I suspect the standard stainless steel hose clamps that you get at Home Depot will rust rather quickly. The one's I have were from Home depot and were never submerged for long periods of time yet they show small signs of rust. You might find higher grade at the boat store but they will definitely be more expensive. You can find the platic locking hose clamps and some fish stores.

The reality of the situation as I see it is that the right size is the one that works for your set up. There are going to be many factors that muddy the waters so to speak, no one has even mentioned total volume or mass of sand, density of sand, active surface area, etc. I am willing to be a small fortune that at 3-7" deep sand bed (pick your favorite depth) will not work if the active surface area is only 2in^2. If there is anything that I have learned in this hobby it is that there is no "recipe for success", everyone's system is different enough to make this so. You should be willing to experiment a bit with your system, and be patient (as most of us know). If you are battling nitrates, I would recommend a fuge if possible, even a hang on type might be worth it, if you can not plumb an external fuge. Having 0 nitrates makes maintanence so much easier..I don't even do water changes any more!

there are countless threads online that give insight on all of the techniques required to raise clown fry. It can be done but as mentioned it will require a significant amount of time and research to get the process down. google raise clonw fish and there weill be a number very helpful articles to get your started. I think I have a thread, http://www.wamas.org/forums/topic/34389-clown-fish-just-layed-eggs/ This is a thread from my first clutch, I some how managed to scramble together in a week do all the research and acquire rotifers from dbartco. I have a single survivor from my first clutch.

Well, I think I am going to try these out. http://cgi.ebay.com/48-60-LED-Moonlight-Aquarium-Moon-Light-Power-Supply_W0QQitemZ250605963586QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item3a59478942 They are not to expensive and it come with 60 LED's. Will these be noticable on top of 175w halides? I really would like a little more blue light on top of my 10000k MHs.

Those look very interesting and the price is good. I worry that they may not be visible on top of the metal halides. What do you think?

thanks for the replies guys. I am still having trouble finding an article that I thought one of the WAMAS members wrote. How much do you guys think it would cost to do a DIY LED (only actinic supplementation) across a 4 ft tank? i believe I can get DIY T5s (2x48") for around 130 or so.

I don't see a real concern with adding LIVE sand to an establish tank, I have added a 20lb bag with no observed effects. It can get dusty if you are not careful-I usually use a tupperware type container with a lid to control the sand, lower the container to the bottom of the tank, and open/slowly pour the sand. This technique has worked well for me interms of minimizing dust. I have a DSB (3-4 inches) in my fuge with cheato and have 0 nitrates for almost a year now...