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Anybody have a larger (180ish) AGA tank with the megaflow overflows? If so could you tell me how far out they protrude into the tank? Also, how do folks overcome the dead spot between the 2 overflows? Thanks

He only removed a bunch of silly joking around related to his name and YouTube channel. His work and home address were listed due to it not being hidden when he created the site. Nothing important is missing really, or I guess I should say nothing of any use is missing

Very outside the box, I like that idea

Do you need a battery back-up for that to function?

Mind blown! I've learned some good stuff here. Thank you for letting me know that, I'm going to try it now

Whaaaat? That I did not know. I thought the "If Time > 05:00" related to 5AM

Don't get me wrong, I'd love an apex but its all about the $$$. To replace the defer command (because I'm rockin old skool), I use a switch (2 actually) in the sump and say if SW3 closed then SKM off, If SKM off Then ALM ON (in case the switch were to fail). Saying it was great to be able to program from my phone, was just to point out that even though its older technology it still has some newer style features. I just wish it would text me :( They just need to come out with a new Apex so I can afford the current model.

I'm a big fan of my AC3 Pro, so easy to program (even on my phone).

+1

He's gonna be FAMOUS!

LOL

It official, this will work just fine with an AC Jr, AC3, or AC3 Pro. What you'll need is an AquaSurf module, that's originally designed to control Tunze pumps. Here are some details: - The PSU that came with my AquaSurf supplies 14.7v (though it's marked as a 9v PSU) - There will be 13 viable "Intensities" that the AquaSurf can use to control the LED lights - In order for this to work, here is an example of the program string in my AC: Timer "LED" corrisponds to controller address E01 Timer LT1 is a channel (Blue or White) of my LED light If Time > 14:30 Then LT1 ON If Time > 14:30 Then LED PF1 If Time > 15:00 Then LED PF2 If Time > 15:30 Then LED PF3 If Time > 16:00 Then LED PF4 If Time > 21:00 Then LED PF3 If Time > 21:30 Then LED PF2 If Time > 22:00 Then LED PF1 If Time > 22:30 Then LT1 OFF Pmp MODE sd for PF1 Pmp Int 006/006 for PF1 Pmp OSC 10/10/0 for PF1 Pmp MODE sd for PF2 Pmp Int 024/024 for PF2 Pmp OSC 10/10/0 for PF2 Pmp MODE sd for PF3 Pmp Int 054/054 for PF3 Pmp OSC 10/10/0 for PF3 Pmp MODE sd for PF4 Pmp Int 078/078 for PF4 Pmp OSC 10/10/0 for PF4 What all this does is has 4 defined intensities of light that are scheduled to happen at different times durring the day (the AC Jr can only have 4 profiles, AC 6, and AC Pro 7). You can see that at 2:30PM the lights come on, and are set to minimum intensity. At 3:00PM they jump to +/- 30%, then 65% at 3:30, and about 100% at 4:00. After remaining there they ramp back down in backwards order. The only statement that needs changed is the "Pmp Int" statements that define the light intensity. Here are a list of intensities that the AquaSurf can output (with my 14.7v PSU, a smaller PSU of about 9v will stall at intensity 072) 000= 0v 006= .7v 012= 1.36v 018= 2.19v 024= 3.15v 030= 3.68v 036= 4.43v 042= 5.54v 054= 6.66v 060= 7.41v 066= 7.94v 072= 8.9v 078= 9.73v (this is where I would stop because from what AlanM says the control voltage didn't measure above 10v for him) 084= 10.38v 090= 11.13v The pinouts for the AquaSurf are as follows (using a standard CAT 5e patch cord) White/Blue stripe wire = P1 + (or P3) Green/White stripe wire = P1 - (or P3) White/Orange stripe wire = P2 + (or P4) Orange/White stripe wire = P2 - (or P4)

Great, I'm going to try and connect the 4 pin to an RJ45 so it mates up to my AquaSurf.

Does the dimmer board have to remain connected? Can't I just disconnect it entirely and short pins 1 & 2, then hook up to 3 & 4 via the female connector? I'm not sure why you have to cut the wires?

Let me know if you ever figure out the style of that 4 pin connector, I thought it was the same as a PC fan but it doesn't appear to be. Looks like this will work fine with an AquaSurf on the older AC3 controllers too. From the testing I've done so far, it seems there are 13 viable voltage outputs in the 0-10v range an AquaSurf can provide.

+1 Went through about 50lbs of CO2 in a couple years. I can't think of any drawbacks to using it, except drinking some

Mineral Oil for sure, used it in my planted tank for years. It's a very popular solution.

Thought your tank is 30" tall?

Already done Those are very interesting overflows

I can have an outside box if I have to, but was concerned with it impeding my ability to reach into the tank? The tank will only be accessible from the front and back, but the back being the preference (due to it being in-wall), and the top of the tank will be about 67" off the ground.

What's the general consensus on that slot size and location? I imagine a 1/2" slot an inch from the top? I'm also curious about the length of the slot and it's impact on the support provided by the back pane of acrylic. As for the holes in the bottom here's the deal, the previous owner had glued a bottom closed loop into. The connectors were damaged, and I opted to remove them from the tank by using a 3" hole saw to drill them out. I'm now left with 4 3" holes in the bottom of the tank that I'd like to permanently seal. I have some 1/4 acrylic that I can use to make patches, and wanted to know which glue or solvent would be best suited to seal these up? I was thinking something strong due to the 2 side holes being pretty close to the corners, and I'd hate to see any cracks develop down the road. Also, what's the recommended gluing procedure (spread glue on the entire patch before laying it down, using solvent around the outer edge AND the inner lip of the hole itself, etc.)?

I'm working on setting up a Clarity Plus 180, that is braced around the entire top (like a solid top with some access holes cut in it) and would like to do a Bean Animal drain. The issue is that the inner box will be pretty much unaccessible due to it being under the top bracing, and that could be an issue if something were to get in there. The only idea I've been able to come up with thus far is to make the inside box it's own self contained removable unit, so if there were to be an issue I could remove it (which stinks because I'd have to plan my rock, and coral placement around being able to remove the box). Anybody have a better idea? Here is a picture of the top of the tank for reference

How much current do these pull from the 10V source, is it the +/- 2mA?

YESSSS!

You're my hero!