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Good replies folks, I like seeing a thread to reenforce the use of these LEDs. Especially as many are still concerned with coloration of their corals compared to traditional lighting set-ups. I myself have been having trouble with certain purple corals under LEDs, though I do have an encrusting Monti down low with a great purple hue to it.

It's been a while since the D120 craze swept through WAMAS, and I'm curious to see the end result. I bought 6 myself for a 180 build that is still in the works, but am curious of the results folks have achieved with these cost effective lights. I'm most interested in growth and color of your corals, as well as your set-up (tank dimensions, height of lights off the water, layout description, brightness settings, photoperiod, etc.). It would be great to document the success of these specific lights as opposed to LED lights as a whole. Remember, a picture is worth a thousand words. So, how are those D120s treatin ya?

So, what's the general consensus on the best way to take used rock and get it back to like new? Muriatic Acid? Bleach? .......? I'll worry about making it live again once this process is complete. That raises another question.... Allow your rock to cure in the newly set up display, or cure ahead of time? Opinions please

Nice! More Bmore folks... It's good to see some folks local to me joining up. Welcome!

I've done a handful of holes with those cheap bits. They work great for 4ish holes or so, and can't be beat for the price. Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk

I'd take a copy if you have one, I'm curious to see if it'll run on the latest version of android on my Nexus. Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk

So, here's my current issue.... I have well water with a crazy low pH (around 5), and thus must achieve my RO/DI production a little differently. What I do is produce and store my RO in an aerated container for a few days prior to running it through my DI. The new DI water I'd then stored in a non aerated container until used. The issue is that the resulting DI water from this process has had a rather high pH for purified water (somewhere around 9+). It actually spikes my tank pH a tad when I top off my water for the day. My tank pH has been on the high side lately (around 8.4 by lights off, and holds especially high for about hour or more after dosing my alk), and I'm trying to figure if this issue is part of the reason why. Anyone have experience with this issue, or perhaps some insight into why the DI water is holding such a high pH? Thanks for the help

What are the specs on your system? I have well water at 131 in and 6 out, but I'm looking for something a tad better.

After just the RO membrane?

That's the same process I had seen on the web, though some mention multiple flushing cycles at various speeds. When you do yours, do you just let the resin rest in their solutions for a time then rinse with RO water, or is there more of a process?

I'm torn between trying the Anion resin and regenerating it when exhausted (I use sodium hydroxide to treat my well water anyway, so I have it on hand), or attempting to aerate the RO before pushing it through the DI with an aqualifter. Thoughts?

So, I ditched the crummy booster pump I had and went with a CDP8800. With the pressure at 84 psi (what it was out of the box), I'm at 131 TDS in and 6 TDS out. A nice improvement for sure, and I hope the output drops at least another point and I'll be at about 96% rejection. Any tips on maybe squeezing a tad more performance out of this sucker (if at all possible)?

I'm on a well and it's kicking my mixed bed resin's butt, so I've decided to get some Anion resin to run ahead of the mixed to take care of the CO2. What I'm curious about is where folks have found a good quality and price on the resin? I don't need to buy in bulk, so standard sizes will do. So far, the best I've found is from SpectraPure. Thanks

I had one years ago, they really do fail to mention just how big that $4 fish will get. It grew to 16" in a 55 gallon tank in about a year.

I've seen conflicting reports on which flow restrictor to use. BRS recommends the 550 while I have seen an 800 suggested as well. What are you folks using?

Mine did have a hologram sticker as well. At this rate I'm about to just buy another membrane off Amazon, they're only $30....

I've produced 15 gallons of finished RO product at this time, is that normally considered a sufficient break in period? Samples are taken in a glass shot glass that is rinsed in the water to be tested 3 times before I do the actual test. The 2 carbon blocks were what was included in the BRS filter replacement kit. The pump does appear to be an off brand non-adjustable pump. My pressure reading comes from a gauge between the pump and the RO membrane. I did a few more tests today to see if I could get a better result, but I've had no luck. I put my old RO membrane in ( Axeon TF-1812-100), and 800 flow restrictor and was able to get a result of 15 TDS. I then reinstalled the Filmtec membrane (added a light coat of lubricant to the orings) and 550 flow restrictor and made sure it was fully seated. I even twisted it clockwise as stated in the package. As it stands (after another 5 min flush and 30 min run time) my TDS is at 16. The only other info I have on my feed water is in the following picture of our water test results when the house was purchased last year. Here is a picture of the membrane package, it seems pretty legit I'm at a loss on what could be the trouble

I purchased it brand new off eBay, came in a sealed package. I'm beginning to wonder about the source though.... Just got the membrane this week

I've dumped 2 two 5 gallon buckets of finished product, and these numbers are after that.

Everything except the housings themselves is brand new. The membrane is model # TW30-1812-75 I have flushed the membrane twice, and it has been running for about 6 hours now.

After I moved to my current house I hadn't hooked up this RO unit, and was buying as needed from the store. Due to this I don't have accurate readings related to how the system performed previously. All above readings were taken after making 10 gallons of finished water. I didn't see a break in period listed on the BRS website, I'll take another look. The membrane seemed to have seated properly, and I had no trouble sealing its housing after the install, so I'm guessing the membrane was installed ok.

I just redid my RO unit, and went with a 75GPD DOW Filmtec membrane, and so far my DI has been getting eaten up pretty fast. Here is my set-up and associated readings: Water feeds into a 5 micron sediment filter 1 micron sediment filter 5 micron carbon filter .6 micron carbon filter Hits a booster pump (boosts pressure to 50-55) Hits the DOW Filmtec 75GPD membrane (has a 550 flow restrictor on the waste water output) Then to the nuclear grade color changing DI resin from Bulk Reef My readings are as follows: Input 167 TDS and 5.25 pH (well water) After membrane 17TDS Water Temp after membrane is 60 My tap water uses a Sodium Hydroxide injection unit to raise the pH to 7, and I tried running the RO off that (normally I get the water prior to this injection), but it was even worse (about 260 TDS in and 40 TDS after the membrane) What's the deal with the crummy 90% rejection rating? I made about 10 gallons of water, and ate up a good 8% of my DI resin. Any help or tips on getting my rejection rating up to par would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

Is that the Fluval substrate in your 10g?

Hey Matt I meant, how far towards the front glass does the large black overflow protrude (I was thinking like 4")?

Anybody have a larger (180ish) AGA tank with the megaflow overflows? If so could you tell me how far out they protrude into the tank? Also, how do folks overcome the dead spot between the 2 overflows? Thanks